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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbieV845 View Post
Does anyone know how the door speakers (above) are attached to the plastic cage?

I won't be using a 1-2 ohm system anymore so I'd like to replace the Bose speakers with speakers of today and the cage looks like the best way to get them to stay in the door.

Thanx
Robbie,

Not so fast, you may either have the speakers Artic is describing, or the the ones with the plastic frame held with 10 or so torx screws.

I do know the 93 has the one the 10 torx screws, and the 95 and up has the ones with the screws like Artic has shown you, and for the 95 and up one can use the ones of 2000 to 2004 cars as I replaced my 95 original speakers from a 2003 W220 door speakers, but my 93 has speakers of some weird oddball size.

Maybe someone with a 94 can confirm what you have..

All the best,

Martin
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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 05:44 AM
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Hey Martin,

Thank you for your reply and warning.

Yes, if anyone knows if the 94's are like the 93 or 95's please chime in. I know I'll have to drill the new speaker cages and trim here and there, it'll just be 10x's easier to use the frame then not.

I have another speaker question, I located a great resource to help me with my speaker ordering, but it says nothing about dash speakers. She's never had a working sound system in the car so I don't know if they're strictly for the car phone or if they're part of the stereo system, in either case are they 3.5" speakers? another two directional tweeters would be great.

Thanks again




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Originally Posted by MAVA View Post
Robbie,

Not so fast, you may either have the speakers Artic is describing, or the the ones with the plastic frame held with 10 or so torx screws.

I do know the 93 has the one the 10 torx screws, and the 95 and up has the ones with the screws like Artic has shown you, and for the 95 and up one can use the ones of 2000 to 2004 cars as I replaced my 95 original speakers from a 2003 W220 door speakers, but my 93 has speakers of some weird oddball size.

Maybe someone with a 94 can confirm what you have..

All the best,

Martin
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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 11:06 AM
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For what it's worth, I used a door speaker from a '91 in my '95 SL600. The speaker housings were completely different so I reused the one for my car. I needed to trim around the edges a bit and drill three of the four mounting holes, but the speaker did end up fitting in my frame. The speaker mounting hole locations were different from '91 to the '95 but the depth was fine.
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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 06:11 AM
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Speakers are now $60 a piece. The part number is back to the original number as they used a similar speaker model (133619) in the past few years. Patty is still the contact at 508-766-9522
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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 09:43 AM
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Yeah thanks just trying to get some homework done before I park her in the garage and start ripping out 1994 sound and replace it with 2000 n' teen sound.

And that'll require me to replace all of the existing wires/speakers/subs/amp /head unit. Car will look mostly stock other than the head unit.



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Speakers are now $60 a piece. The part number is back to the original number as they used a similar speaker model (133619) in the past few years. Patty is still the contact at 508-766-9522

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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 03:24 PM
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In Feb 2010, on post #8 on this thread, plink49 clarified that it is not necessary to remove the door panel to replace the main door speaker. So, when replacing only the main speaker, should one assume that it is not necessary to order extra push pins, as advised in an earlier entry?

Also, if you are going to replace both the tweeter and the main speaker, is it then required to remove the door panel?

Finally, if the door speakers sound raggedy, as if a cone has been damaged, is it usually the case that the tweeter goes out along with the main door speaker? Or, are they pretty independent?

Thanks in advance,
Tim
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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 05:11 PM
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In the early models (1990 - 1993) for sure, you have to remove the entire door panel.
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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcm View Post
In the early models (1990 - 1993) for sure, you have to remove the entire door panel.
All first gen panels need to come off, the removable grill was introduced in late 1995 or so...

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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 09:14 PM
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One needs to remove the whole door panel for the later models too - it's no big deal.
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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timonterey View Post
In Feb 2010, on post #8 on this thread, plink49 clarified that it is not necessary to remove the door panel to replace the main door speaker. So, when replacing only the main speaker, should one assume that it is not necessary to order extra push pins, as advised in an earlier entry?

Also, if you are going to replace both the tweeter and the main speaker, is it then required to remove the door panel?

Finally, if the door speakers sound raggedy, as if a cone has been damaged, is it usually the case that the tweeter goes out along with the main door speaker? Or, are they pretty independent?

Thanks in advance,
Tim
I replaced the door speakers in my '96 (with the newer panels) by replacing the entire panel. A couple months later I tried to replace only the large, lower speaker on my aunt's '97. Even knowing exactly where everything went, after 10 minutes I still couldn't access one of the mounts. Pulling the entire panel is the faster, easier way.

So for your '97, I'd order those extra push pins. Yes, you need to remove the entire panel to access the entire door speaker mount. The smaller speakers are viable in the 2 cars where I had to replace the larger, lower speakers. So I'd say they're independent as for wear.
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