Introduction - out of lurk mode - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Nov 2018
Vehicle: 1987 560sl (chrome bling now removed), 2002tii, FJ40, FJ62, M5
Location: Richmond, VA
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Introduction - out of lurk mode

I've been lurking for a few months since I purchased my '87 560sl, so I figured I would introduce myself. I lurk and post on several other automotive sites under the same name - fjinva. I'll post some pics of my 107 once I move them over from my phone. The car is diamond blue with blue interior. 72K miles and completely rust free as far as I can find so far. When I bought it from the dealer who cared for it for the original owner's family, it had a few running issues. I am slowly working through my list, but to get it on the road; I gave it a tune up with OEM cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter. I ran a few tanks of Techron and then changed the oil and filter. I replaced the fuel pumps, accumulator and fuel filter, and installed a new fuel sender. Replaced front and rear pads and front rotors. I had a local Benz shop put on a new Ansa muffler, which I found to be a good option. I am still carbon fouling my #8 plug, so I think I will replace the injectors and associated pieces soon, and I will replace the timing guides and chain in the next year. The car is running better and better the more I drive it. We have had a great spring here and I was thrilled to get the hard top off and drive it almost every day over the past two months.
I am currently replacing the aftermarket radio with an original Becker with Bluetooth module. The PO cut out all the radio connectors, so I will need to get those and try and get it all working. I also want to refinish the center console wood, but am not sure if I should tackle that myself or send it out. I love working on this thing. Really easy, IMO. I have been working on old cars for many years, and my tastes tend toward old German cars, old land cruisers, old English cars. I currently have the 107, a BMW 2002tii, a few old land cruisers and daily drivers for myself and my family. I have had several Triumphs, an Austin Healey, a Mustang GT, many Jeeps, and a V12 jag. The wife puts up with it, but gets a little grumpy if too many are not running at a time, and she can't navigate a crowded driveway and always full garage. That's it for now. I hope to keep posting as I continue to get to know this great car. fjinva (Darrell) Richmond, VA
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:14 PM
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Welcome to the family Darrell. I have the same car with a similar history. As you experience the more it is driven the better it gets. IMHO do the center console wood yourself, search this board for "acetone" as that makes it easy with no possible abrasion to the thin vernier. Post another note here if you can't find it.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:35 AM
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Welcome aboard Darrell. PP's advice re acetone is spot on. With all your experience DIY is definitely a yes.
Don't use more than 500 grit on the veneer or it gets too slippery for the lacquer to stick to and tends to puddle. This assumes the veneer is ok and not all cracked. I replaced all the veneer on mine and it just needs care and patience to DIY. It needs quite a few coats to get it perfect ( burl soaks up a lot of lacquer) and use a spray gun for the last coat. The second piece is a spare I did it in a different veneer and ended up using the darker one (burl walnut)
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think I will give the refinishing a shot, as I already have the wood completely separated from the console. I will search for more posts. I want to make sure I use the correct lacquer and get the finish as smooth as possible.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:03 AM
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Yes Aussiemerc has good advice. I used polyurethane not lacquer, a matter of preference. A pic below of the aluminum acetone soak tray showing how the old finish just flakes off (it needs to be sealed to prevent evaporation). Dust is your enemy, I used a HEPA filter.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 02:30 PM
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Can't resist reviving an old debate ..... If you don't want to use acetone, the old finish will come off easily using a gentle hand with a blunt putty knife and a heat gun.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...sole-wood.html
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 03:05 PM
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Welcome to the club fjinva, a home to all your DIY needs - I'm yet to find a question that someone on the forum couldn't answer 😁 you've a nice selectiom in your garage, you're lucky to have the time to work on all those cars - I struggle and only have one "weekender" 😁
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dugald View Post
Can't resist reviving an old debate ..... If you don't want to use acetone, the old finish will come off easily using a gentle hand with a blunt putty knife and a heat gun.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...sole-wood.html
I did that originally but found it much more difficult than the acetone bath and I made a complete mess of the veneer which prompted me to replace it all. Maybe you have soft hands Dugald?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 05:31 PM
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What kind of putty knife do you use for the curved surfaces on the ash tray?


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Nov 2018
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So, I figured I would report back with my steps and results to close this out. I decided to try the acetone method. I used an aluminum turkey pan with a plastic lid. I removed all the plastic pieces from the wood, even removing the staples and all glue residue. I initially submerged the pieces in the acetone, but the black ink and stains made the acetone very dark and I was worried it would stain the wood. So I elevated the pieces above the acetone on painters pyramids, facing upwards. After 2 days the finish started to crack and peel. After 3 days, all finish had flaked off leaving perfectly clean wood. The vapors do all the work. They also shrank the plastic lid, but it held up well enough to finish the job. You can see the flat finish that was left. I lightly sanded with 600 grit and cleaned and let dry over night. I then used a polyethylene 2 part clear coat (SprayMax 2K). Since this is hazardous stuff, I used a good mask, goggles and gloves. I created a spray box to contain the fumes, which I closed up between the 5 coats to prevent dust. This was done in my work shop with a good ventilation system. This clear coat laid down very well. Very flat with no sanding between coats. Bad picture, but you might get an idea of the gloss and uniform coat. Installed the plastic pieces again and ready to install tomorrow. 4 days from start to finish, and I'll let it dry for another day. Very satisfied with how easy this was and how well it turned out. Now on to repairing the radio harness and Becker radio! Thanks for all the help!
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