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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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New Member 450slc Barn Find

Im new here, have little to no idea what I'm doing. I am 25, and have restored a 1967 mustang. I'm actually putting a coyote 5.0 in it right now. But anyway, I know how to restore cars, I really enjoy it, but I really only know things about American cars unfortunately. I just got this 450slc, it was free. The interior is mediocre mainly due to the seats. Some rust on the floor pans. Basically, I have limited knowledge on these cars. I tried looking at the Wikipedia on them and felt like I didn't have an inside scoop. I don't know what the value of this car is, I don't really care, it looks cool. My mustang is not rare by any means, I put money into it because its cool to me. Any resources for good history on this car? Basic tips? Info on the cars that I probably wouldn't know ti begin with? Thanks guys!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:10 AM
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Welcome to the forum. SLCís are good looking cars. Based on the bumpers and turn signals you have an early 70ís car. There are a quite a few guys on this forum that are extremely knowledgeable about the R/C 107, youíre at the right place.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:14 AM
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:19 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

Can't really tell much from the pictures other than you've got what looks like a pretty expensive pair of bumpers on that gem. The one thing you mentioned that got my attention was the dreaded "R" word... RUST. Above all else, rust is a 107 killer. I'd suggest you delve deeper into the rust issue before becoming too heavily involved in restoration. The rust you can see is usually only small fraction of the massive amount of rust hidden from view. Pull the carpets (cabin and trunk), look under the wheel wells... if you can see any bubbling in the paint anyplace on the body, look further. The lower side skirts (under the doors and forward) are notorious for nasty rust problems. Once you've satisfied yourself that your not dealing with a 107 with terminal rust issues... that's when the fun begins.

More pictures please. Interior blemishes are not usually fatal but if ever there was 10 lbs. of shiot packed into a 5 lb. bag, just take a look under the dashboard of a 107. This car will task you, physically and mentally and could break the bank as well... but boy is it fun. Good luck.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 06:43 AM
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Good news is....everyone on this forum was 25 once. LOL.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 06:45 AM
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This the VIN plate right side up:



Chassis 1267. For slc, that would be a 72 build (about 6000 built in 72), perhaps licenced as a 73? That would make it a Djet (Bosch Djetronic Fuel Injection). 024 means that it has North American 4.5L V-8 engine. (euros are 023)

If you send the VIN to MBUSA Classic center, they will send you the original datacard, if that is of interest. It will look like this one:



This link will help with car in general as well as decoding datacard:

https://carclassic.com/library/r107-w107-guide/

You will need a shop manual. There is a link to one in the EGV107 sticky that Dave linked, but I like this one: http://www.oncebitter.com/r107/Main.html

Some background reading:
http://mb107.com/guides/sl-road+track-article.htm
http://mb107.com/specs/production.htm

Good luck with it.


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1972 350SL 4.5L, E320, 300D, Outback 2.5 - near Kingston, Ontario

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 07:06 AM
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Hi!
Welcome to the forum.
From the black/silver plate, yours looks to be a 73, which makes the engine a D-Jet with electronically controlled fuel injection. Be glad it's not a 75, as that's when they started putting catalytic converters and other emissions stuff on them.
As Jyuma said, check everywhere for rust. Depending on how persistent you are, quite a bit of the sheet metal rust can be repaired. There are people on here who have repaired rust in many areas. You need to get over, around, and under the car checking for rust. When you pill the carpet, look under the seats as well as what's in plain view. Major areas of rust are near and around the back window.
Also, does it run?
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 12:10 PM
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Well, the price was right.

Even if the rust is terminal, lots of good parts if your inclined to part out.

Either way, you found the right place here. This is probably the most active site and definitely most knowledgeable and helpful folks. Make sure you check out the EGv107 sticky at the top of this forum.

Have fun!


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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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This is everything I hoped for. I appreciate the links. Read through them all!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Curious as to what your thoughts on me making my own subframe. I did it to my 67 stang. I use box tubing 2 by 2 inches. If the rust is minimal, I will probably go that route vs making MB do it for me.
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