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-   -   Advice on changing single row chain? (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/3022746-advice-changing-single-row-chain.html)

frazierfrazier 04-08-2019 10:38 AM

Advice on changing single row chain?
 
Been hearing the death rattle last few startups and my chain is indeed loose and there is scoring on the covers. I know some of you have very strong convictions about this subject, but for me and my situation (no garage, limited finances) it makes the most sense to just change the chain, tensioner and guides, so thatís what Iím doing. And no, I will NOT attempt to start it up again until itís done :)

I have watched panzerpuffís video on timing chain service probably 15 or more times over the last few months preparing myself and read many threads here and elsewhere. I have not seen much about single row chain service, though. I think one of you guys mentioned somewhere that the single row is ďmore difficult because it has a way of jumping teeth on the cam gearĒ, but thatís really all I could find.

So, anything I should look out for, or is specific to my model year? Iíve ordered the Febi kit which includes everything. Got the stud puller for guide rails. Does the single row need to be riveted? I think I read somewhere that the master link does not use circlips.

Iím honestly very excited for this job! It was a mere three years ago that I was proud of myself for doing a tune up! :eek

cushjbc 04-08-2019 11:52 PM

Panzerpuff's videos are always good gouge - never heard of riveting a new chain, circlips are what I had when I did it. I highly recommend a helper on this. My son pitched in and helped me keep everything moving nicely.

I still remember my engine running rough after this job - I thought I had done it wrong. I quickly found #1 and #2 spark plug wires crossed and was happy after I figured it out.

okyoureabeast 04-09-2019 09:18 AM

58 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by frazierfrazier (Post 17750454)
I’m honestly very excited for this job! It was a mere three years ago that I was proud of myself for doing a tune up! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/BenzWorld2/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png[/IMG]

From tune ups to chain replacements. We really are an asylum.

Any reason why you won't go for the double chain upgrade if you're DIYing? Anytime I've cheaper out, i found myself having to go back and do it again.

Get the FSM article on this. Also, your friendly local library will have access to Alldata on the computers. I would pay them a visit and see if they have this job in there. Color photos and better English explanations are always a good thing!

Franklyspeaking 04-09-2019 11:15 AM

I did a chain replacement on my old 240D several years ago. The chain I bought had rivets (I think that was standard then - probably 2001). There is a tool that I rented off Ebay that was supposed to do the job, but I ended up using a hammer and some punches to finish the job. I drove it for several years after without issue.

Nothing wrong with the single chain, but you will need to change it sooner than with a double row chain. My double row chain went 154K (that's when I bought it). Most recommend changing a single row chain every 25K. That would be a lot of years for me and my SL.

Good luck!:thumbsup:

Jyuma 04-09-2019 11:58 AM

Although it's not optimal, there's no reason not to stay with a single row chain if that's what you decide, but make sure you stay on top of the required maintenance. Regular oil changes with top grade oil and check and replace the guides certainly at the time you change the chain and every 5 years thereafter. Tensioners do go bad so replace it along with the guides.

When I bought my 380 new (in '83) it had a single row chain. I was an idiot and went way too long between oil changes... the chain let go at about 30K. You'd think I would have learned my lessonÖ nope... the second chain let go at around 80K. The moral being... even with an idiot like me who never changed the oil, the single row chain still lasted 30K to 50K miles.

Pay attention to the oil... that's #1, and pull the covers every year or so and take a look. Chain stretch is a myth... chains don't stretch but the connections between the links wear out and each little bit of additional play adds up and the overall length of the chain increases over time, not from stretch but from wear. Oil, oil, oil, I can't stress it enough and it doesn't matter how many rows your chain has, if you don't change the oil on a regular basis you will have problems with your chain and sprockets... and above all, don't try to get an extra year or two out of your chain guides because you don't put that many miles on the car. Chain guides become brittle and break due to time far more than use.

Whatever you decide... good luck.

jaymaynard 04-09-2019 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okyoureabeast (Post 17751374)
Any reason why you won't go for the double chain upgrade if you're DIYing?

Isn't the upgrade to a dual-row chain a pull-the-engine job?

Jyuma 04-09-2019 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaymaynard (Post 17751704)
Isn't the upgrade to a dual-row chain a pull-the-engine job?

You need to remove the timing chain cover which means pretty much everything needs to come off the front of the engine. When I had everything off the front of my 380 it looked to me like I could have pulled the timing chain cover without lifting the engine but I wouldn't swear to it. There might be a few bolts in the oil pan that get in the way... I'm just not sure.

okyoureabeast 04-09-2019 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaymaynard (Post 17751704)
Isn't the upgrade to a dual-row chain a pull-the-engine job?

I didn't think it is, but considering the amount of removal of the front accessory components it might be easier to do just that.

cwmoser 04-09-2019 03:36 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by jaymaynard (Post 17751704)
Isn't the upgrade to a dual-row chain a pull-the-engine job?


When I had my 1983 380SL converted to dual-row timing chain, it was an
Engine out procedure.

Some photos of the process:

rowdie 04-09-2019 04:09 PM

Conversion is either pull the engine or support it and drop the subframe.


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