Crazy Idle Control Module - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jyuma View Post
Long shot.... disconnect the linkage arm to the cruise control.

I had 2 occasions when my engine shot to full throttle... once with me in the car (so I quickly shut the engine off) and once with the car idling in front of my garage (it took several horrifying seconds for me to get to the car and kill the ignition).

I removed the linkage arm that goes to the cruise control (front right of engine) and have never had the problem again. If a faulty cruise control can cause a full throttle condition why not all points in between as well?

It only takes 5 seconds to remove the linkage arm, if you've already checked the usual suspects it's worth a try.


It's the linkage arm that goes from here...
Attachment 2505782

To here...
Attachment 2505780

Also, it wouldn't hurt to check all the throttle linkage pivot points for binding.
Attachment 2505788
Thats a thought. I suppose its possible that the device mounted near the alternator could be getting a phantom signal. I'll pop the linkage off where it connects near the throttle body this morning.

Thanks a Million
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
Walt, when my sensors went the symptom was increased fuel economy not a high idle.

I would look at your ICM first.

Before you drop cash on a programma rebuild, open up the module and try to reflow all of the solder points on the back. You can even check all of the capacitors to see if their resistance matches the cap.

If that's too difficult, you can also send it to JamesDean from this site
Cruise Control Repair

My 2 cents.

These relays are really simple electronics and the things that go wrong are the solder joints and capacitors. James might be able to get it working much more cheaply than a new rebuild.
The ICM unit I have is a 3 year old programma rebuild. The unit that came with the car was for x<=1982 (wrong unit). I doubt programma would warranty their work after 3 years. The coolant sensor I put in is a Uro part and I still think it would be a good stroke to replace it with a proper MB part, as I have been finding Uro parts are not quality.

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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Williams View Post
Thats a thought. I suppose its possible that the device mounted near the alternator could be getting a phantom signal. I'll pop the linkage off where it connects near the throttle body this morning.
Keep in mind, it is a long shot and an unlikely one at that. It's just that it's a real easy thing to try.

Nobody gets out of this life alive.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Williams View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
Walt, when my sensors went the symptom was increased fuel economy not a high idle.

I would look at your ICM first.

Before you drop cash on a programma rebuild, open up the module and try to reflow all of the solder points on the back. You can even check all of the capacitors to see if their resistance matches the cap.

If that's too difficult, you can also send it to JamesDean from this site
Cruise Control Repair

My 2 cents.

These relays are really simple electronics and the things that go wrong are the solder joints and capacitors. James might be able to get it working much more cheaply than a new rebuild.
The ICM unit I have is a 3 year old programma rebuild. The unit that came with the car was for x<=1982 (wrong unit). I doubt programma would warranty their work after 3 years. The coolant sensor I put in is a Uro part and I still think it would be a good stroke to replace it with a proper MB part, as I have been finding Uro parts are not quality.
I too have the Uro coolant sensor and it has been working fine. There are tests you can do in the FSM that will help you narrow dowm which part is actually bad. The coolant temperature sensors was really easy to test with a multimeter.

If anything, I would doubt the quality of the programma rebuilds. I remember reading about their units going bad with w123 climate control and cruise control relays.

When I finally pull my butt out of bed, I'll see if I can source the fsm article for you.

And correction to my first reply, it was increased fuel consumption.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post

If anything, I would doubt the quality of the programma rebuilds. I remember reading about their units going bad with w123 climate control and cruise control relays.
My response to this lead was to buy what was described as a working used ICM off of the Bay. I swapped it out aaaaand . . . . so far so good. No high idle. If it continues to idle at the correct level I think will first call Programma and find out what kind of warranty they have. If they're won't stand behind their product, which failed after only 16K miles (racked up in just little over 2 year of regular trips the college campus I was attending), I will simply forget they exist. It would be stupid to continue to buy items from a place thats doing shoddy work.

If Programma won't warranty their product I will try what the video I previously posted suggested and replace the transistors he pointed out and see if this will work.

@Jyuma Removing the cruise control linkage didn't help. It was an easy check though.

Thanks a Million
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 09:44 AM
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Do you expect a lifetime warranty on a rebuilt electrical part? Something in your vehicle could have contributed to the failure.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 10:39 AM
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As I remember, Programma does a 3 year warranty. Check their website. My experiences with them have all been very positive. Good people.

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