Crazy Idle Control Module - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 11:56 AM
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[QUOTE=Douglas Matheson;17740148]

Iím having the same idle issue and took it to an Independent MB mechanic (Budís Benz outside of Atlanta) who tested the idle control valve, tested the idle control box, tested air intake and all were functioning properly ... $400 later and no resolution.

Can you explain in more detail what you did to resolve your high idle as I am just learning and willing but not much experience doing my own repairs. Not sure what you mean by removing the pull tie or where it is located? Also, what do you use to clean the connections before plugging it back in?

I replaced the overload protection relay about a month ago and solved a hit idle situation, then I had the engine cleaned and as soon as I left the place, I was idling at 1500 RPMs in park and neutral ... about 900 RPMs when in gear.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Now its starting to high idle more frequently. I stopped by a someplace on my way to class to check on something and left it idle. I didn't get no more than 10 feet was and it started to high idle. By the time I got to class it resumed normal operation. When I got off the Interstate on my way home it was back to high idling again. So as a test I put the factory original Over Voltage Protection Relay back in and started it. Its back to idling normal again.

I'm testing to see if the its the new replacement OVPR I installed when I worked over the Idling Control System 3 years ago is now malfunctioning. Fortunately I kept the original relay.

Thanks a Million
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=Douglas Matheson;17740150]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Matheson View Post

Iím having the same idle issue and took it to an Independent MB mechanic (Budís Benz outside of Atlanta) who tested the idle control valve, tested the idle control box, tested air intake and all were functioning properly ... $400 later and no resolution.

Can you explain in more detail what you did to resolve your high idle as I am just learning and willing but not much experience doing my own repairs. Not sure what you mean by removing the pull tie or where it is located? Also, what do you use to clean the connections before plugging it back in?

I replaced the overload protection relay about a month ago and solved a hit idle situation, then I had the engine cleaned and as soon as I left the place, I was idling at 1500 RPMs in park and neutral ... about 900 RPMs when in gear.
I'm still dealing with it.

First: Could I encourage you to finish filling out your profile. Its helpful for us to know what year and particular model you have, as there are subtle differences over the 18 years Mercedes produced the 107s. Plus the forum moderators will start requesting you do this in the not too distant future anyway.

If you will look at the post that started this thread you will see a photo of what I meant by pull-tie.

You might have a wiring issue. Inspect your wiring. If your wiring has old cracked insulation you might have an open circuit. There is an online shop manual linked in the Encyclopaedia Germanica Volume 107 (aka EGv107) sticky link. I would check the fuses. Test the continuity of the wires going to the Idle Control Valve. Test to see if you have power at the power pins of the Idle Control Module. These are things that you can do yourself with a multimeter and an additional length of wire. Also you can pull the plug participial off the Idle Control Valve and test the voltage. At running temperature you should get 3 to 5 volts (I think). The ICV defaults to wide open. If it defaulted to closed your car wouldn't run, potentially leaving you stranded somewhere. I actually re-wired the top of my engine at about the same time I worked over my Idle Control System. My engine wiring was going to pieces quickly.

A common issue with these car at a certain age is the Idle Control Module goes inoperative. A company called ProgRama rebuilds these modules. The cost is $130 to $140. (My car actually have the wrong model year module in her.)

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:02 AM
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Flame Suit On:

It's useful to put your car and info in your profile. I get that.

However, that data isn't static and what ends up happening is someone will undoubtedly decide that they want another car and will sell their older vehicle. So now when I go to search for something, I'll see some issue where someone is talking about some problem, but have absolutely no idea what car they have because the poster long since sold it and got something different unless someone else chimes in and mentions what car it is.

Worse yet, the "car profile details" don't even appear on the mobile site. So now I need to switch to the mobile desktop view which sucks even more.

So do the needful, and put the car into your post AND your profile!

/rant

I've never been a fan of programa rebuilds. I'd sooner send it to this guy for reconditioning. He'll reflow the solder, replace all of the capacitors that go bad, and test the other components to make sure they report that they're operating correctly.

He's a poster here that goes by the name JamesDean http://www.cruisecontrolrepair.com/
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Putting back in the original OVPR didn't help much. Its maintaining proper idle less and less. I will go out and clean some contacts today and check my Idle Control Valve for see its still operating. Before I determine my 3 year old Idle Control Module has gone bad I will test the wiring by testing the continuity of the two wire at the ICM going to the ICV by jumpering across the connector at the ICV connector and checking for continuity at the ICM connector. I am deeming it possibly that the my 3 year old ICM has gone bad.

I'm wondering how long ProgRama warranties their products.

Thanks a Million
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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I returned my newer OVPR and cleaned the contacts for the coolant temp sensor and oil temp sensor and at the moment its behaving itself.

I also removed the back of the connector for the ICM and tested the voltage going to the ICV and power in. Removing the back off the connector makes so I can probe some voltages while the car is running. I'm going to leave this connector open for the time being so I can quickly test voltages should it decide to act up again. I'll get the bottom of this. I just didn't need it to act up while I'm working hard to get through my last college class -- Calculus based Probability and Statistics.

I found the following vid. I think I will try this in the future.

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Last edited by Walt Williams; 03-30-2019 at 06:34 PM.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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She is gotten to where idles high sometime and sometimes normally. I think it the coolant temperature sensor unit I installed after accidentally breaking the original one. It's a (bowing my head in shame) Łro part. For now I'm tolerating it but will go to the dealer had get a proper MB part once classes are over with.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:18 PM
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If OVR is ok, I would imagine it's the module going bad. That's been my experience. I keep an extra one on hand just in case....I've had two fail in the last 6 years.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:38 PM
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Walt, when my sensors went the symptom was increased fuel consumption not a high idle.

I would look at your ICM first.

Before you drop cash on a programma rebuild, open up the module and try to reflow all of the solder points on the back. You can even check all of the capacitors to see if their resistance matches the cap.

If that's too difficult, you can also send it to JamesDean from this site
http://www.cruisecontrolrepair.com/

My 2 cents.

These relays are really simple electronics and the things that go wrong are the solder joints and capacitors. James might be able to get it working much more cheaply than a new rebuild.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:09 AM
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Long shot.... disconnect the linkage arm to the cruise control.

I had 2 occasions when my engine shot to full throttle... once with me in the car (so I quickly shut the engine off) and once with the car idling in front of my garage (it took several horrifying seconds for me to get to the car and kill the ignition).

I removed the linkage arm that goes to the cruise control (front right of engine) and have never had the problem again. If a faulty cruise control can cause a full throttle condition why not all points in between as well?

It only takes 5 seconds to remove the linkage arm, if you've already checked the usual suspects it's worth a try.


It's the linkage arm that goes from here...
Crazy Idle Control Module-mercfullthrottle4-copy.jpg

To here...
Crazy Idle Control Module-mercfullthrottle3-copy.jpg

Also, it wouldn't hurt to check all the throttle linkage pivot points for binding.
Crazy Idle Control Module-mercfullthrottle1-copy.jpg

Nobody gets out of this life alive.
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