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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 10:01 AM
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An oldie from the way way back machine......


SLC Rear Window Rust
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
i actualy do ALOT of rust work and fabrication, but give me a nut n bolt and an idea and i can build you anything so yes..i can weld

im going to assume that last example is an east coast rust bucket? since NOTHING out this way ever looks remotely that bad unless its been at the beach its entire life..well..my lloyd looked worse actualy
Do not have any info, or back history on car. Do know that it took me 6 years to get it bought, mainly for the 5 speed factory tranni. Still trying to decide which way to take this car.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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ok well thanx for the input guys, right now im pretty sure were about to pull the trigger on a 74 slc, and then a build thread will get tossed up
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 06:50 AM
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Early MB's Do Rust

Yes, there are specific areas or joints that are more prone to rust. BUT, there is a worse issue.

I was involved in what came to be known as The World Wide Rust Team in 1978-1979. Zetsche was disturbed that the USA was paying out a lot for warranty repairs due to rust on different vehicles, yet some Europe areas had few-to-none. We examined everything from road-salt chemical formula to driving conditions.

We finally found that a prime reason was that the USA, in order to compete, MB gave a longer rust-through warranty period than Europe's 12-month warranty. Thus, more paid out as vehicles aged and rusted.

As for WHY the vehicles rusted, MB was fond of using only single-side galvanizing for the steel, instead of dual-side, in many cases, the thickness of the coating was less than other manufacturers (30 vs 90 thickness). In order to get around this deficiency, they gobbed PVC where they could reach, such as under the hood or near joints. It became a mess, and did not prevent water and moisture getting to the steel or salt-laden humidity from getting through joints.

YOUR SOLUTION: Replace the steel parts and body panels with double-sided galvanized steel, or trade the car for a mid-80's or later vehicle.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 09:35 PM
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There are two reasons the car is rusting.
1) Earlier MB's had sheet metal and other steel brackets/components coated only on one side and with 30-or-60 weight galvanizing, instead of the 90-weight double-sided galvanizing used by other manufacturers.
2) MB tried to cure the issue by applying "gobs" of PVC over the metal and at joints - that is why the engine compartment is so messy. This did not halt moisture from attacking sheet metal or invading joints.

I was involved with what became to be known as The World Wide Rust Team. Zetsche complained that the USA had a vast number of rust claims, when Europe had very few. We examined geography, road salt chemical makeup in different countries, driving patterns. CONCLUSION: Europe only had a 12-month Rust-Through Warranty, so few people filed warranty clams, but the USA had a longer warranty time period, so rust appeared within the warranty period.

Your cures:
1) Replace all the body panels, main components, and joints with double-side galvanized steel.
2) Don't buy the car.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeSandor View Post
There are two reasons the car is rusting.
1) Earlier MB's had sheet metal and other steel brackets/components coated only on one side and with 30-or-60 weight galvanizing, instead of the 90-weight double-sided galvanizing used by other manufacturers.
2) MB tried to cure the issue by applying "gobs" of PVC over the metal and at joints - that is why the engine compartment is so messy. This did not halt moisture from attacking sheet metal or invading joints.

I was involved with what became to be known as The World Wide Rust Team. Zetsche complained that the USA had a vast number of rust claims, when Europe had very few. We examined geography, road salt chemical makeup in different countries, driving patterns. CONCLUSION: Europe only had a 12-month Rust-Through Warranty, so few people filed warranty clams, but the USA had a longer warranty time period, so rust appeared within the warranty period.

Your cures:
1) Replace all the body panels, main components, and joints with double-side galvanized steel.
2) Don't buy the car.
You've piqued my interest good sir. What work did you do at Daimler?

Did you help design any chasis, particularly the r107? If so, I have some questions for you 😛
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 10:02 AM
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Hey sh0rtlife,

I'd agree with predecessors who encourage looking for a rust free car - unless you can find a dirty cheap too good to be refused project that you can work away on in your own time. I got my girl 4 years ago, she's an Irish car so climate-wise comparable to the US northern west coast most of the time. The car I got came with issues but still was one of the cleanest in terms of rust available between the UK and Ireland. Most of the ones I looked at had rust in the plenum chamber which for me was the sign to walk away. Some of my adventures with rust are linked below, it should give you an idea of what to expect at minimum from a 107 that lived for 30-40 years in wet climate. Could be worse

https://myalbum.com/album/A6iifCgFGNSy
https://myalbum.com/album/yUT1EfRsidKh
https://myalbum.com/album/Ie85Uz0IHeReKh
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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again thanx for the very detailed input

the car im looking at right now is a 73 or 74 from a guy who has ALOT of them, 800$ will get me the whole car as it sits, no i wont post any pic's "yet", i went over the car with a fine tooth comb in all the areas mentioned and found no rust..i expected to find some..somewhere but nothing...the car was involved with a shop fire, and by that i mean it was in semi close proximity, the paint bubbled on the trunk and the passenger rear tail light "sagged" from the heat..that was its total damage, all said, for my plans its a very clean solid car

as for the work...ALL fork save for sending it out for blasting will be preformed by me and only me start to finish, course ill also farm out having the windshield and back window put in at a later date but everything else ill handle
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:06 AM
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Well in that case sh0rtlife, she sounds like a no-brainer keeper! Most cars in this age bracket can benefit from a respray so that's for granted, but if there's no rust in the usual suspect areas then I'd pull the trigger without hesitating.

Good luck, but do please post some pics!
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
no i wont post any pic's "yet"
Oh come now, it's not like you're showing your wife pictures of your future project. You're in good company with us here in the ASYLUM
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