Tie Rod replacing ... Hints to separate joints? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Tie Rod replacing ... Hints to separate joints?

Snow has all melted away, sunny, nice day
to replace my worn driver side Tie Rod on Angel - my 1983 380SL.

What a job that is with the tools I have!!

One end of the Tie Rod was way more difficult to break loose than the other.
I used a HF Steering Knuckle remover,
my Fork, Hammer, PB Blaster, and my Blow Torch.
Kinda difficult doing this on the ground.

Passenger side is OK for now but I need to
address it too.

Fortunately I watched @nobby at the GTG adjust his new Tie Rod with the old one and did similarly.
Took my 380SL out for a Test Drive and she steered much tighter and no alignment issues.

I'm wondering if my technique is suspect that makes this difficult for me?
You guys got any suggestions before I tackle the passenger side Tie Rod?

Carl

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"You have chosen to drive a MERCEDES-BENZ, a car in whose construction and production we have taken great pains because we believe that quality is not a matter of chance." -- page 3, Owners Manual 380SL
Timing Chain, Subframe, wiring harness, Climate Control, Rust prevention, etc.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 12:44 PM
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I used the old standard wedge and hammer method. Destroys the seal but who cares, the new tie rod has new seals.

Nobody gets out of this life alive.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Also, anyone know the proper Torque for those
Tie Rod bolts?

Carl

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"You have chosen to drive a MERCEDES-BENZ, a car in whose construction and production we have taken great pains because we believe that quality is not a matter of chance." -- page 3, Owners Manual 380SL
Timing Chain, Subframe, wiring harness, Climate Control, Rust prevention, etc.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 12:58 PM
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I used this. Bought it from Harbour Freight a few years ago. Worked great.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 02:05 PM
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Here's a question for the group.

I have this industrial pitman arm remover on standby for my massive power steering box job.

Can I use this to also remove the tie rod from the pitman arm without damaging it?

Better yet, is it possible to remove the pitman arm from the steering box without disconnecting the tie rods?
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLT61 View Post
I used this. Bought it from Harbour Freight a few years ago. Worked great.
I used that HF tool too.
Tie Rod is original to car when new.
I'm guessing next time best to apply pressure with the HF tool, use PB Blaster,
wait a while, then smack it.

I had been hitting the side with a hammer
but finally broke it loose with a hammer blow on the HF tool.

BTW, the original Tie Rod had a Castle Nut with Cotter Pin.
The new Meyle Tie Rod came with a self locking Nut.

Got curious ... never knew this technical bit about Self-Locking Nuts and Bolts:
http://www.raa.ca/magazine_pdf/tech%...nd%20Bolts.pdf

Carl

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"You have chosen to drive a MERCEDES-BENZ, a car in whose construction and production we have taken great pains because we believe that quality is not a matter of chance." -- page 3, Owners Manual 380SL
Timing Chain, Subframe, wiring harness, Climate Control, Rust prevention, etc.

Last edited by cwmoser; 12-18-2018 at 02:23 PM.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwmoser View Post
I used that HF tool too.
Tie Rod is original to car when new.
I'm guessing next time best to apply pressure with the HF tool, use PB Blaster,
wait a while, then smack it.
Thatís what I do, minus the PB Blaster.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 04:32 PM
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If you have an air compressor pick up an air hammer with a pickle fork attachment. Makes short work of it. Considering minimum use I'd check out HF...



ps...pickle forks also make a great tool for removing a drill press chuck on models that don't have the slot for a drift...like mine.
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Last edited by reno4u2; 12-18-2018 at 04:37 PM.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwmoser View Post
Also, anyone know the proper Torque for those
Tie Rod bolts?
35 newton-meters.
Carl, may as well check the torque on all steering components, it gives u confidence and makes the car handle better. I made a torque diagram a while back and forgot where I posted it, so here it is again.
p.s. take extra care on the lower shock nuts, there are different size nuts on various shocks so just use the lowest recommended torque.
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Last edited by PanzerPuff; 12-18-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 08:24 PM
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The tool we used for Chris's tie rods will also do the ball joints. Let me know if you want to borrow it I can ship it to to if you leave me a deposit.
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