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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 06:12 AM
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Has this problem been present since you had the car or has it developed recently. How long have you had the car? How long ago was work done by Herndone auto? Do you have the reciept describing what was done?

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Has this problem been present since you had the car or has it developed recently. How long have you had the car? How long ago was work done by Herndone auto? Do you have the reciept describing what was done?
The problem was not noticeable when I purchased the car. I drove it from Dallas to Houston and did not notice it. It has gotten much worse during the last two drives. We only take it out on weekends. It was much much worse on the way home from our weekend trip than it was when we left for the trip.

The work done by Herndon was done in 2008-9. I do have the paperwork from the PO who bought the car from Barrett-Jackson. The engine was removed and rebuilt, suspension (front / rear) re-done. New factory color paint. They did not do the interior because its in good shape, and there is no mention of transmission work / removal and there is no reference to servicing flex discs, center shaft bearing, or transmission mount. I can assure you that the engine mounts were replaced during the rebuild in 2008-2009. I visually inspected them and had my wife stomp the brake while giving it gas in forward and reverse. The engine does not move at all. Very still. So the engine mounts are not the issue..before the rebuild they may have been bad and caused damage to the flex discs at that point, but now, the engine mounts are for sure not the issue.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an opinion on the center bearing and transmission mount? Does the center bearing look normal? Is the play shown in the video normal? Does the transmission mount look ok? I would love the issue to only be the flex discs since I won't need to remove the shaft, but if the bearing needs to be replaced then I must do it. Let me know what you folks think.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 09:09 AM
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I am no expert on the R107, but this drive arrangement is very similar to the W123. I don't see anything in your pictures and videos that looks bad enough to cause your problem. The center bearing runs through a flexible rubber donut, which looks in tact. I had seen flex disks that had reinforcement fiber coming loose that had no vibration.

Have you looked at the CV joints and axle shafts? That is another component that can cause vibration under load. Most of the time this is caused by lack of lubrication. The rubber bellows can deteriorate and loose the lubricant. In my W123 they used a gear oil type lubricant and when the rubber bellows goes, so does the oil.

Good luck - Hope you find the problem.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 09:12 AM
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I had flex disks changed when I had front seal leak repaired on my 72, but they didn't provide break down of labor.

However, on my 85 300D which is similar, I had front flex disk changed - 1 hr charged. At a different shop, the hanger bearing and support - 2 hrs.

Don't now what you would pay down there, but having experienced shop do it might be worthwhile. I keep telling myself that, but still end up mostly DIY.

That mid shaft bearing got rid of vibration on the 300D.

The front flex disk was done after engine had been R&Red. Car was vibrating. Disk didn't show any cracking, but had likely been put back on in a different position. Somehow that threw things out of balance.

Good luck with it. It's a lousy place to work!
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 09:51 AM
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Anyone have an opinion on the center bearing and transmission mount? Does the center bearing look normal? Is the play shown in the video normal? Does the transmission mount look ok? I would love the issue to only be the flex discs since I won't need to remove the shaft, but if the bearing needs to be replaced then I must do it. Let me know what you folks think.
They look ok, but as much as I've learned with these vehicles and the w123 I owned that appearances can be deceiving.

I had a rear end clunk that was driving me nuts. I ended up getting some new rear sway bar links and replaced them even though they looked good without any obvious play when grabbing at them. Sure enough, it took care of the problem.

Replacing these parts is very easy and straight forward. The only difficulty is getting the exhaust out of the way to work on them, something you don't have to do with the w123.

I'll be honest, if you're going to do this job I would go the full monty and get all new rubber down there. Having to drop the exhaust is a b!tch and something you don't want to do again. It just makes sense to do it all while you're in there.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hmm..now I am confused as ever. Most are saying that the photos do not show enough wear to cause the vibration! I was hoping that it would be definitive proof. So the only other possibility would be the axle shafts, cv joints, and engine mounts (i believe I ruled this out but I will check them again).

I looked at the cv / axle boots while I was under the car and they were intact and pliable..so I would assume those are lubricated. Must I remove the axles to really know?

Well, I guess I will just go ahead and replace the center bearing and flex discs (they are getting worn anyway). If the vibration continues then I will go from there. Do I need to completely remove the exhaust system from the car? Is it difficult?
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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They look ok, but as much as I've learned with these vehicles and the w123 I owned that appearances can be deceiving.

I had a rear end clunk that was driving me nuts. I ended up getting some new rear sway bar links and replaced them even though they looked good without any obvious play when grabbing at them. Sure enough, it took care of the problem.

Replacing these parts is very easy and straight forward. The only difficulty is getting the exhaust out of the way to work on them, something you don't have to do with the w123.

I'll be honest, if you're going to do this job I would go the full monty and get all new rubber down there. Having to drop the exhaust is a b!tch and something you don't want to do again. It just makes sense to do it all while you're in there.

Do I need to completely remove the exhaust from the car?
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 12:07 PM
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Do I need to completely remove the exhaust system from the car? Is it difficult?
Your 73 is probably same as my 72, but I can't get at it right now to have a look.

Not sure if you could lower exhaust a bit. Or just remove the rear part that may be in the way? When I had work done on transmission leak, the shop took the complete exhaust off in one piece. Saw them re-install it and recall them having some difficulty - the bolts at the exhaust to manifold joint are hard to get at and likely hard to undo. If I remember correctly, car was on hoist and they had long extensions and an impact driver. Exhaust shop put in new seals later(some sort of soft metal) when I had them install a boss for my wideband O2 sensor. If those front joints can be avoided it may make job easier.


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Last edited by MBGraham; 12-11-2018 at 12:14 PM.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 01:21 PM
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Do I need to completely remove the exhaust from the car?
Your 450sl might be different than my car.

On my 84 380sl, the idiot PO had a shop make the entire exhaust system on giant long pipe from the passenger side header all the way to the rear. Where there should be connectors that bolt together, it looks like someone welded the piece in place. I don't know if that's OEM or not.

The aftermarket exhaust pieces that i've seen all bolt in sections which would make this job a lot easier to do.

From what MBGraham said, you might be in the same situation as me. The only way to know is to crawl under and check.

Don't be intimidated by this job. Like I said, the exhaust is a b!tch to remove, but once you do it you can easily put copper anti seize onto the bolts which will make removal easier. I recommend putting the front of the car on ramps and jacking the rear up on jack stands. This will give you the clearance you need to do the job.
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