Seat slider spring - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Seat slider spring

Any trick to reconnect that big ass'd spring under the seat?

Seat slider spring-mercseatsliderspring.jpg


Update: Never mind...

Seat slider spring-mercsliderspring2.jpg

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:12 AM
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Do you have brake spring pliers? They work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Brake-....c100005.m1851
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have brake spring pliers? They work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Brake-....c100005.m1851
Thanks Rowdie... I used my bottle jack.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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OK... for my next dumb question. I took the seats out over twenty years ago and I don't remember how the seats go back in. Do you first put the bottom seat in and then attach the back once everything is reconnected on the bottom or do you assemble the back to the bottom and then put the fully assembled seat in the car? Oddly enough I have one seat with the back attached and one seat with the back removed. Don't ask me why because I don't know.

bTw... I've been driving the car with the drivers seat just set more or less in the correct location... there is nothing holding it in. Dumb I know.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 09:13 AM
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I remove and install the seats in my car fully assembled.

Probably have done it 6-7 times over the years.

For some odd reason..... they are getting heavier.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 09:15 AM
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Assembled rails and all. Engage the hooks, put in front bolts, slide forward, install brackets on rear.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Assembled rails and all. Engage the hooks, put in front bolts, slide forward, install brackets on rear.
I tried to do that for an hour today. The outside rail on the drivers side connects into the slot with no problem, but the inside rail refuses to go. I finally gave up.


I'm planning on removing everything again in the spring so I can eliminate the rust and paint with POR 15 or equivalent, so for now one side engaged in it's slot will just have to do.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 06:32 AM
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I tried to do that for an hour today. The outside rail on the drivers side connects into the slot with no problem, but the inside rail refuses to go. I finally gave up.


I'm planning on removing everything again in the spring so I can eliminate the rust and paint with POR 15 or equivalent, so for now one side engaged in it's slot will just have to do.
Make sure that your sliding rails are in the same position.
Also.....I'm pretty sure that I get the inboard rail set before the outboard.
I hate that job.
More than the oil change.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Make sure that your sliding rails are in the same position.
Also.....I'm pretty sure that I get the inboard rail set before the outboard.
I hate that job.
More than the oil change.
It doesn't help that a fully assembled seat has some mass to it so fine alignment adjustments are difficult to do.

As it turned out, having only one side engaged in it's slot is working fine... I even reinstalled the seat belt. Life is good.

@nobby … My car is running better and better each time I drive it. I'm not there yet but it looks promising for a road trip in the spring.

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