Remove Blower Motor - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 11:57 PM
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I had the same problem exactly. I was originally looking for a water leak and.............shit! You may well be able to patch it without taking out the heater box but I removed the dash and heater box, fixed the hole with metal glue and fiberglass ( I can't weld) and took the opportunity to completely renovate the heater box. I also installed a new blower motor and I have to say removing the plastic fans is quite a job . There's a good write up on that by Gluekauf (spelling?) - I think it's in the Sticky section.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Found a new motor with new fans for half price on Flea Bay... $84 bucks. When it shows up if it's even halfway decent I'd say it's way better than trying to get my 35 year old rusted beyond recognition armature to spin free again. Besides... if I can free up the old armature, I'll have a spare.

Before I was able to get the blower motor out I put a bid on a used blower motor and case that is supposed to be in working order. My bid is so low that I don't have an ice cubes chance in hell of winning the auction but even if I do, it's so cheap I'll just list it on Flea Bay myself for twice what I paid for it. Trust me... I won't win the auction.
Remember that auction I was certain I would loose? Well... I won. I now have a complete blower motor assembly on it's way along with a new motor and fans. With any luck I'll be able to use the case from the blower unit I won with the new motor and fans I bought and life will be good. If I ever get my hands on Murphy......

Nobody gets out of this life alive.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 10:09 PM
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Had the same issue when I replaced my blower motor: driver's side/front bolt and nut rusted solid; it took that corner portion of the (fragile) blower motor housing with it.

I realize you're all doing the lord's work and completely repairing/removing everything. Just wanted to state that everything works just fine if you ignore the broken portion (corner) of the housing, replace the motor, and simply put it back in with an imperfect (yet quite functional) seal.

Mine's been great as such after I did this summer 2017, as I had little desire to fork-out the cash for a new blower motor housing when I could just pop it back in and have it work well. Think the new motor was $38 from fleabay and the whole ordeal took about 1hr.

(Yes: I realize this is sacrelige and that Verner [my 107] and i are now going to hell. Still, when we get there, the AC and climate control will be blowing well to keep it tolerable; moreover, we may be "upgraded" to purgatory for our thriftiness.)
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Had the same issue when I replaced my blower motor: driver's side/front bolt and nut rusted solid; it took that corner portion of the (fragile) blower motor housing with it.

I realize you're all doing the lord's work and completely repairing/removing everything. Just wanted to state that everything works just fine if you ignore the broken portion (corner) of the housing, replace the motor, and simply put it back in with an imperfect (yet quite functional) seal.

Mine's been great as such after I did this summer 2017, as I had little desire to fork-out the cash for a new blower motor housing when I could just pop it back in and have it work well. Think the new motor was $38 from fleabay and the whole ordeal took about 1hr.

(Yes: I realize this is sacrelige and that Verner [my 107] and i are now going to hell. Still, when we get there, the AC and climate control will be blowing well to keep it tolerable; moreover, we may be "upgraded" to purgatory for our thriftiness.)
Oh the humanity.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Berglund View Post
Had the same issue when I replaced my blower motor: driver's side/front bolt and nut rusted solid; it took that corner portion of the (fragile) blower motor housing with it.

I realize you're all doing the lord's work and completely repairing/removing everything. Just wanted to state that everything works just fine if you ignore the broken portion (corner) of the housing, replace the motor, and simply put it back in with an imperfect (yet quite functional) seal.

Mine's been great as such after I did this summer 2017, as I had little desire to fork-out the cash for a new blower motor housing when I could just pop it back in and have it work well. Think the new motor was $38 from fleabay and the whole ordeal took about 1hr.

(Yes: I realize this is sacrelige and that Verner [my 107] and i are now going to hell. Still, when we get there, the AC and climate control will be blowing well to keep it tolerable; moreover, we may be "upgraded" to purgatory for our thriftiness.)
Thats pretty much what I did ... but you got to admire "the Lords work" here.
It is impressive and its giving me inspiration to revisit my repair.

Carl

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"You have chosen to drive a MERCEDES-BENZ, a car in whose construction and production we have taken great pains because we believe that quality is not a matter of chance." -- page 3, Owners Manual 380SL
Timing Chain, Subframe, wiring harness, Climate Control, Rust prevention, etc.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 09:55 AM
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What no one mentioned is the need to clean out the vent holes that most likely caused water to collect in that area and rust that spot out in the first place. I had that same issue with mine and wound up breaking off the corners of the plastic housing then having to put something else in there to hold the motor tight. At this point when I turn my blower motor on the high setting I can feel it vibrate. PITA job though.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 12:39 PM
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Unhappy Rusty blower motor area

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What no one mentioned is the need to clean out the vent holes that most likely caused water to collect in that area and rust that spot out in the first place. I had that same issue with mine and wound up breaking off the corners of the plastic housing then having to put something else in there to hold the motor tight. At this point when I turn my blower motor on the high setting I can feel it vibrate. PITA job though.
Actually, there are no drain holes in that area (they are on the outer side of the blower box ) . Larger amounts of water escape via the heater box drains, but very small amounts just sit around rusting away......
That whole area is a very poor design, allowing water from above to cascade down in heavy rain.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Actually, there are no drain holes in that area (they are on the outer side of the blower box ) . Larger amounts of water escape via the heater box drains, but very small amounts just sit around rusting away......
That whole area is a very poor design, allowing water from above to cascade down in heavy rain.

The plastic cover has a seal all around it that is supposed to prevent water from seeping in. If gaskets can seal a water pump, why is it that a gasket around the plastic cover over the blower unit can't?

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:42 PM
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The plastic cover has a seal all around it that is supposed to prevent water from seeping in. If gaskets can seal a water pump, why is it that a gasket around the plastic cover over the blower unit can't?
Ever look at that plastic cover as it ages? The gasket surface is no longer flat; they warp like crazy!

Even though my cars never get wet, I picked up a couple of the early stamped steel blower motor covers to replace the crap plastic ones.

Chief

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 02:18 PM
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Question Steel blower motor covers

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Ever look at that plastic cover as it ages? The gasket surface is no longer flat; they warp like crazy!

Even though my cars never get wet, I picked up a couple of the early stamped steel blower motor covers to replace the crap plastic ones.
Ebay or junk yard?
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