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Green anti-freeze

9K views 52 replies 15 participants last post by  nobby 
#1 ·
Getting ready to replace all the fluids in preparation for attempting to start the engine. Any reason why I can't use green anti-freeze? When I drained the rad it had green so should I just go with green?
 
#3 ·
But when my '83 380sl was made Zerex G 05 didn't exist. In fact, none of the fancy colors in anti-freeze existed other than Green.

How about the new anti-freeze that claims to be compatible with any and all other types of anti-freeze? Prestone makes it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Anti-freeze tech has become complicated. In general stay away from the long life products. I have always used MBZ coolant and all has been well.. I also use the MBZ recommended citric acid flush every so often.
????????? But isn't MB coolant long life? My 2005 C230 has 15 year change interval according to the owner's manual.

Shouldn't it be backward compatible?
 
#6 ·
Coolant MB Specification 325.2



Hi Jyuma,

Changed the fluids recently myself, after the timing chain replacement. Did some research and came across the buzzword "MB specification 325.0 - 325.2" for these coolants.

They are red ... would not use green coolant: It was on mine but I saw "green sweating" (small leaks of coolant) all over the engine ... Changed it only recently but I have the impression that it is much better. The guys at the shop where I get most of my 'generic' stuff didn't have all details, but they said: Stick with the right color for your brand of vehicle: should be red ... not green (nor blue). Having no 325.2 on stock, they sold me the 325.5 and should be ok as well (still need some confirmation though ... )

More info: lists the popular brands meeting these specs:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/325.0_en.html

Seems to be confirmed here:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Antifreeze-Coolant-Mercedes-BLUE-MB-325-2-G11-1-5L/252270445037
 
#9 ·
If your planning to replace all fluids anyway, why not a good flush and fill with Zerex?

It meets MB specs and, following your threads, you don’t seem one to “half-ass” anything.


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#10 ·
I'm thinking that because the engine hasn't run in over 20 years, and it is summer right now... I might just fill it with water to see what happens. If it leaks then all I'm leaking is water and not liquid gold anti-freeze. When I get a few miles under my belt and nothing blows up... I'll flush the system and go with Zerex.
 
#14 ·
I have a car with an all-aluminum V8 which had green coolant in it when I bought it. Been flushing it with distilled water to get all of the green crap out of the heater core, etc. Drained the third fill last night and I'm still getting lots of white powder out. That engine must have had green in it for a long time. It'll get Zerex G05 when I'm through flushing it. The green coolant does not provide sufficient protection for aluminum.
 
#44 ·
In the meantime, the short answer is to use *only* distilled water combined 50/50 with either G-05 coolant (the previous MB spec) or G-48 (blue) coolant. I don't know enough about waterless coolants yet to comment (other than to say I'm reasonably confident that they're not at all the same as just running undiluted antifreeze) so at this point my cars get G-05 (for ease of availability) and *distilled water*.
I have no reason to doubt that you are 100% correct, but I'm still left with the puzzle of a lifetime of experience using the old standby Green antifreeze and water from the garden hose. Never once in all the cars I've owned, have I seen the cooling system fail due to corrosion. I've bought cars with blown head gaskets that the PO used a sealer on just to get rid of the car (not very ethical) which then clogged the radiator so bad it needed to be replaced but I've just not seen the damage caused by Green antifreeze that you and others have alluded to.

Having said that... it is my intention to acid flush the system and go with the Zerex G-05. I can't think of a good enough reason not to. :thumbsup:
 
#45 ·
I have no reason to doubt that you are 100% correct, but I'm still left with the puzzle of a lifetime of experience using the old standby Green antifreeze and water from the garden hose.
Your water is probably reasonably soft. That, combined with regular coolant changes will indeed do a perfectly decent job of protecting the cooling system, especially in cars with little or no aluminum engine parts. Heck, I ran green stuff for many, many years before I knew any better. It used to be all we could get. The secret to success was to change it every two years. If you did that you were mostly okay, even with hard water. Sounds to me like you were performing proper maintenance.

Fortunately, while cars might not be getting better, oil and coolant have definitely improved over the past couple of decades-- something those not in the biz may not have realized. That, and my ongoing issue with the coolant in one of my cars is what inspired me to contribute those documents to the discussion.

The older I get, the lazier I become. Always looking for ways to save time/effort/money. In a typical older car like mine, or an R107, you could use Xerex combined with distilled water and not spend much more than using green stuff. But you'd double your coolant change interval, which saves time & money. And the aluminum bits in your engine would be better protected as well. To me, that's a no-brainer.

Sounds like you're on the right track with your plan. When you're done there I have an SLK you can tackle. ;)
 
#18 ·
Coolant

It's clear you're trying to make yourself feel good about short cutting this important job but if you're a New England Auto Enthusiast you should already know you're flirting with disaster by ever running with plain water or green coolant 'just to see what transpires' .

Get the yellow Zerex and some citric acid powder and distilled water, you're going to need all of it sooner than later .

Mixing different types of coolant is very unwise .

Expect to need serious flushing before it's all good ~ I drove my Mercedes to work daily flushing it and it took a few weeks .
 
#19 ·
read at your own risk

WE LIVE IN A SOFT WATER AREA. AND I ONLY EVER USE DISTILLED WATER, OR WATER FROM MY DEHUMIDIFIER IN THE COOLING SYSTEM.

Shouting over. After re-coring the rad on my 500 SL in 2012 I filled it with pretty much neat Prestone. I ran it for a while, checked for leaks, then siphoned out the header and fiiled that with water as above, and drove up hill and down dale to 'burp' out system. So it was a very high concentration of coolant in there, well over 50%.

After about 6 months, I took advantage of an offer from Evans at a car show, and switched to waterless coolant for the 107. I liked it so much, i went waterless in my R170 as well, which I had also filled with prestone after buying it in 2015. My w220 was filled with ........Prestone. Both the s210s e320 cdis we had were filled with Prestone after thermostat replacement.

I am seriosuly considering Evans waterless again for my s211 e320 cdi which has the 12 year coolant change ( blue) regime.

I have had no issues with either Prestone or Evans over the 9 years or so since I began using them.
 
#20 ·
Have not tried it but if i was going through the hassle of a full system flush to change types or after a rebuild i would look closely at Evens. My understanding the system needs to be totally clear of water or other coolant before the switch but said to last the life of the engine as well as have a much higher heat transfer rate and boil temp for better cooling.
 
#21 ·
it needs flushing with its own water-grabbing fluid

the cost of both will make your eyes water, as the SL has such a copious cooling system, but it really will only hurt once. You can use the flusher several times, I have used it on the SL and the SLK and it most likely would do an another system as well, before I'd give up on it. The Powercool 180 ( the flavour I chose) is a lifetime fluid, so as long as you don't contaminate it with water or other fluids, it will last longer than the car theoretically.
Heat transfer is better, the engine runs a tad hotter, at about 98 when nicely warmed up, but the biggest payoff is no real pressure in the cooling system. You can ( using a suitably protected hand) take the radiator cap off at full temp, and all you get is a little sigh. No great big burp of scalding steam and magma.

When I actually weigh the cost against the cost of all the coolant i have bought over the 17 years of various MB's i have owned and loved, it would have made sense as soon as I decided each car was a keeper, to go for the Evans.
 
#22 ·
I'm getting confused... green, blue, purple, yellow,orange, chartreuse.... what's the difference? Better heat transfer... ok, was there something wrong with the heat transfer that it needed to be better? Isn't that what the thermostat is for? Doesn't the water pump turn no matter what? Non-water coolant doesn't boil, you can open the radiator cap of a hot engine without resulting in a Mt. Saint Helen's type eruption, OK... why would you need to open the radiator cap when the engine is hot? Wait an hour and then open it.

Are we saying that the old standby types of antifreeze are bad for the car? I've been driving cars in one form or another for almost 60 years and for most of that time it was 50% water and 50% ethylene glycol (or whatever the green stuff is). I have no doubt that the modern stuff is probably chemically superior but didn't the old standard green coolant cool hundreds of millions of engines for the last 80 years? What am I missing in the question of which coolant to use in a vintage R107?

Don't they still sell the green stuff... why would they do that? Why take up valuable shelf space with antifreeze exclusively used in older cars if there was no reason to do so? Mind you, I'm not talking about cars that rolled of the assembly line last week, there may be good reason to only use the modern stuff in modern cars but I'm talking about period built cars when the green stuff ruled supreme, I can't see why it is necessary to flush out every molecule of the green stuff via multiple flushing over a period of weeks just so I can fill it with the new, improved, even more effective rainbow colored antifreeze/wonder fluid.

Go easy on me... I'm here to learn.:)
 
#25 ·
Thank you for the link but I didn't see anything in the PDF that dealt with vintage R107's. I saw lots of reference to post 2000 era vehicles and I even saw a picture of a stamped water pump impeller, which were not used in vintage r107's, but nothing about pre-1990 Mercedes cooling systems.

I have no doubt that post 2000 era Mercedes vehicles should be using the antifreeze they were designed to use, but I'm talking about Mercedes engines designed to use the old standard green antifreeze. Why shouldn't I use what "they" were designed to use? I'm not asking if the new formula's are better... they very likely are... I'm asking for a compelling reason to go through the conversion process to the new formula blends.

The job of the antifreeze is to lower the freezing point and increase the boiling point of water and the green antifreeze does that very well. Antifreeze is also designed to prevent... to the degree that it is preventable... corrosion in the cooling system, and the green formula does a fine job of that as well. So what am I missing?

Should we convert to the new blends just because they are new blends and work better than the old blends even though the old blends work well enough? I'm not doubting that the new blends are superior in many ways... I'm asking if that superiority is required in order for the cooling system in a vintage R107 to do what it was designed to do. So far I'm not seeing a compelling reason to convert beyond... it's better.

The engines were designed to work at a certain temperature... it's the job of the thermostat to control the flow of coolant in such a way as to maintain that operating temperature. The thermostat doesn't care if it has to leave the coolant flowing a few extra fractions of a minute more or less, so efficiency of transfer of heat should not be a factor. It is beginning to appear to me that the new formulas claim to fame is superior longevity and possibly better corrosion protection. Is there something else I'm missing? :confused:

Thank you to all for your patience and consideration.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Personally I think any Antifreeze from a reputable company is OK whether its color Mercedes likes (yellow), Toyota pink, Ford gold, Chrysler orange, BMW dark blue/green, VW/Audi red, and so on. The metals in a Mercedes is basically the same as in a GM or Toyota - aluminum mostly.

We don't push our SL's to their design limits, instead we baby them well within their limits.

In addition, a company like Mercedes who designs Engines with problematic single row timing chains makes me suspicious if they are an indisputable authority anyway :)
 
#27 ·
There are only 3 main anti-freeze types/coolant types, at most 4 so far less than the types of car engines !

Green anti-freeze/green coolant
These are the traditional type of anti-freeze most commonly used in North America. Their silicate and phosphate composition provides protection for aluminium and bare iron surfaces. They need to be changed every 30,000 miles or once every two to three years.

OAT anti-freeze/OAT coolant
OAT stands for Organic Acid Technology.OAT anti-freeze contain ingredients such as 2-EHA, sebacate and other various organic acids. Unlike green anti-freeze, they generally do not contain silicates or phosphates. Usually, OAT-based coolants will be dyed a different colour to green anti-freeze. They must be changed once every five years or 150,000 miles.

HOAT anti-freeze/HOAT coolant
HOAT stands for Hybrid OAT. These antifreeze use organic acids but not 2-EHA and usually include silicates to provide protection for aluminium surfaces. HOAT anti-freezes are used by many European car manufacturers, although they are also used by American companies such as Chrysler and Ford. A HOAT coolant will need to be changed every five years or 150,000 miles.

In recent years, anti-freeze manufacturers have been creating universal antifreeze that can be used with all vehicle types. These extended-life coolants only differ in colour. Some may be orange while others may be dyed blue or purple.


*****************************************************************************************************************************************


Valvoline™ ZEREX™ G-05™ Antifreeze / Coolant uses organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. Additional product benefits include:

Automaker approved technology. Protection for up to 5 years / 150,000 miles in light duty applications or 3 years / 300,000 in heavy duty applications.
Minimizes inhibitor depletion
Low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free formula
Protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum

Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. ZEREX G-05 antifreeze/coolant uses the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol for freeze and boilover protection and a hybrid organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to protect your engines from liner pitting and corrosion.
 
#32 ·
Well, the maths I used when going to Evans

was based on the cost of Prestone, using 10 litres a car per coolant change, every two or three years, would run me into ( £16.50 x2, price for 10 litres , going market rate) x3/2= cost per annual coolant change = £49.50 a year, every year, assuming I keep 3 MB's on the go all the time ( which I have done since 2006).
So since 2006, it would have cost me over £600 quid in coolant alone to keep on top of the cars.

If I'd gone with Evans back in 2006, I'd have got by with the 15 litres of prep/flush fluid I bought, and 40 litres of Powercool 180 ( with a bit, maybe 2 litres spare).
That would have cost me about £120 for the prep fluid, and about £520 for the Powercool. = £640.( and that's at full market retail price, which is NOT what I paid).

It's all down to predicting the future. If I'd been sure I'd have 3 MB's on the go for 12 years, it's a no-brainer. Even for the one I knew was going to be an absolute keeper, the SL, it would still have made sense for the peace of mind about not pressurising the cooling system, and on cost, as 13 years at £49.50/2 = £321.75, as opposed to £314.71 (FMR, remember, I got it at about 30% off that price as a one-off at the show. and i was given a baseball cap, a couple of tea mugs, and I even met Edd China).

And I bet the figures are not indicative for our transatlantic cousins, who get everything in different quantities and prices than we do. AND i can take the rad cap off at full heat.:grin
 
#34 ·
it worked for me

honestly, I don't drink it or rub it all over. I definitely won't put any in my fish tank.

Is that any better or worse than the other coolants under discussion . It's a long, long, long time since I did enough chemistry to be all over this.
 
#36 ·
honestly, I don't drink it or rub it all over. I definitely won't put any in my fish tank.



Is that any better or worse than the other coolants under discussion . It's a long, long, long time since I did enough chemistry to be all over this.

I’m just trying to note that that “mystery” formula of Evans is pretty much plain ethylene glycol, the main component of most, if not all coolants.

Then the question becomes what % does one want to mix with (deionized) water?
 
#35 ·
We might be fretting over this too much.
There are a lot of Mercedes that have been sleeping away in garages and barns for decades that come to life once a little love is put in them. Never heard of a cooling system ruined by corrosion - mostly its leaky gaskets, water pump or radiator.
 
#37 ·
i love educational threads like this

so i went hunting for prestone's sds . here it is

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/a1/a1e4bb1a-8d1c-49aa-ba8e-5b5c826e2082.pdf

Supposedly a higher concentration of ethylene glycol, at 75-95%, and a few ( higher proportion salts in there , AND Di-ethylene Glycol as well) But the boiling point is 164 Celsius, as opposed to 190 Celsius for the 80-85% Evans. So I'm guessing that the supplied product is at the 75% end of the scale.

Of course, there is no mention of any " Product X " in either of , which I believe would never get past California legislatitive requirements. My money is on more pure ethylene glycol in the Evans doing the trick. Is this not what RR cooled Merlin engines with in the last unpleasantness.

Although my original worries about running "full-strength" Prestone, no water added, are now dispelled.
 
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#38 ·
I know of the damage caused by green crap in a M117 engine. The Mercedes formulated coolant protects against damage to the engine that is not available in common coolants. You could use MB branded stuff, or for less cash, the same formula in Zerex.

The white crud is a calcification that will build up on your thermostat, water pump, and in the engine as well as plug your radiator. Green stuff increases the deposition of this crud. Also lack of proper coolant servicing while using green stuff causes damage.

I had to flush/clean/citrus cleanse my engine so as to regain effective cooling after the PO had been using green crap for any number of years. Also had to replace hoses and associated cooling parts which were encrusted with crud. There was much use of wire wheel on accessible parts followed by many courses of acid run through to dissolve as much blockage as possible.

The older cars are not built to use the new fangled long life stuff. I suspect the new cars are not either, but get to use it so that the cars will develop catastrophic failures and make people need to purchase new cars. Benz sells very few NEW cars anyway. It is lease and then send to auction. Maybe a few do make it to CPO, who will drive the car just to the brink of cascade failure. The third driver ends up with an end of life disaster in a ten year old car. Same story with the sealed for life transmissions and other cost cutting stupidity.

The SL has survived 30-40+ years with proper care. The new stuff has a hard time staying on the road for a decade before it becomes far too expensive to repair.

OP should do as he sees fit with his car. One less car on the road when it dies, and the value of our cars increases by so many pennies with the death of each sister SL.
 
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#39 ·
We have a new to us Honda Clarity with what looked like HV battery low coolant. I looked online and called local shops to research what I needed as it was Sunday. Color is Blue.

I’m an oldie. The original Benz coolant was somewhere between yellow and orange. The newer one was some sort of blue. I called AutoZone to confirm they have an Asian blue coolant for it, non-silicate non-borate coolant. They also have a European blue coolant and as I was picking that one up, silicate enhanced! I hadn’t noticed I was picking up the European one.

I’m afraid I did not do well in inorganic/general chemistry, but there is an obvious difference there.

Better not mix incompatible formulas...
 
#41 ·
Makes perfect sense. Thank you.

The same coolant is used across the Honda lineup as far as I guess. So far so good. Had a serious burning smell the day before. Drained 3/4 qt oil out and added to that HV reservoir. There are three reservoirs for coolant on it! One engine, one inverter, and that one specific for the battery!

In other news I added a bit of old Prestone DexCool to a Alfa Romeo Giulia reservoir for the intercooler...

So far so good... (Better check for gelling)....
 
#43 ·
Antifreeze/coolant technical information

Below is some info poached from another forum years ago. Unfortunately, the original post apparently did not survive a forum migration, otherwise I'd link to it here in order to give the author appropriate credit. It's pretty much a stream-of-consciousness treatise on coolants but there are at least two very important takeaways: there is a great deal more to coolant formulation than most of us realize, and we need to be using distilled water combined with at least G-05 coolant. Incidentally, friends who own American car shops confirm that, at least anecdotally, GM's DexCool does indeed lead to the failure plastic based gaskets, a situation which is remedied when DexCool is replaced by a conventional coolant.

Attached you will find a couple of MB specific tech articles on the subject. They've probably been posted here before but even so they're well worth posting again. The '04 piece is pretty well superseded by the article on G-48 (blue) coolant but I included it anyway since this discussion revolves around older cars. Both of them illustrate the complexity of cooling system protection and the importance of choosing the correct coolant.

If this info doesn't convince you to use quality coolant in your keeper cars I'm not sure what will. Hope it helps clear up some mysteries. And now on to the post:

G-05 Coolant is where its at.

There are three basic types of ethylene glycol coolant.
1. Conventional/traditional
2. OAT organic additive (acid) technology
3. HOAT (Hbrid OAT with silicates)

They are all available in every color you can imagine.

HOAT are further divided into parially formulated (requires a supplement for diesel applications) and fully formulated can be used as is in diesel applications. The fully formulated can be substituted for partially formulated. The addition of silicates provides fast acting protection that OAT coolants lack and provide a barier that protects plastics from potential deplymerization of some plastics.
Fully formulated HOAT Examples: Zerex G-05, Chevron Custom Made, Texaco/Havoline Custom Made, Motorcraft Premium Gold, Mercedes Benz, Freightliner Purple long life, Mopar Long Life Orange, Mopar Long Life Gold/Amber, Peak CF-EXL, MTU Green.

Partially Formulated Examples: VW Blue, BMW Blue, Volvo Green, Zerex/Glysantin/BASF G-48 (Saab and others have used this also. If it's Blue and European OEM, It's G-48).

OAT comes in many varieties. The Japanese have high phosphate versions and a few molybdate versions. Molybdates improve water pump protection. European and American versions are phosphate free. GM and others that are "GM Dexcool approved" and some "one size fits all" versions use a specific 2-EH acid that some OEMs believe cause problems and are dead set against. European and American versions are usually phosphate-free. All are silicate free.

Toyota uses a couple of non 2-EH versions with molybdates for extra cavitation protection.
Peak Global is a non-2-EH version.

Most European red/pink coolants are Zerex/Glysantine/BASF G-30. VW/Audi/porsche, Jaguar and others use it and have used it.
GM/AC-Delco/Shell/Chevron/Texaco/Havoline is the 2-EH Dexcool stuff and Zerex/Gysantine G-34/Extreme Life 5/150 is the European Dexcool (Newer Saab etc) with molybdates.

Conventional coolants come in passenger car (ASTM D3306) partially formulated HD (accepts supplements for HD service) and fully formulated (Ready for HD service). All include silicates for fast acting protection against abrasives and water pump cavitation. Supplements to address HD cylinder liner cavitation include the SCA/DCA-2 nitrite stuff and the DCA-4 molybdate/nitrite stuff.
Silicates can cause problems in some cars Phosphates can cause problems in some cars 2-EH acids can cause problems in some cars Borates can cause problems in some cars Silicates are required in some cars 2-EH acids are required in some cars.

I would use a g-05 over dexcool. as its simply just a better product.

Make sure you use distilled water or all bets are off.

I would like to talk about mixing coolants. In general, GM and coolant manufacturers all claim that mixing other coolants with Dexcool will not create any significant problems other than shortening the life of "long life" coolant to 24 months. However there is much evidence to the contrary. All bets are off when mixing any two coolant formulas. This is true regardless of color. Mixing Chrysler/G05 orange with orange Dexcool appears to cause plastic/nylon 66 http://home.comcast.net/~roadska/nylon66.pdf deterioration (even worse than Dexcool alone).

Mixing Japanese red coolants with European red coolants appears to have also caused problems.

Adding green coolant to Dexcool seems to also accelerate problems, but that statement begs the question: Which type of green coolant?

Today green coolant can be
1. Traditional high silicate American car coolant
2. Parially formulated HD low silicate coolant
3. Fully formulated HD low silicate coolant
4. Any of several other less common green coolants

Each of the above has a different additive formula that can react differently with Dexcool and other coolants.

Flush the cooling system extensively before changing coolants.

The carboxylates in Dexcool have been determined to cause polymerization of Nylon 66 when left in use over 24 months. Nylon 66 is used throughout the cooling system including as a backing/support in many gaskets and seals. Mixing different organic acid coolants with Dexcool seems to accelerate this nylon 66 destruction, but I don't think adding an inorganic coolant to dexcool would do the same (but who knows?).

Use a Distilledmwater unless you are sure that your water content is below:
100 ppm total hardness
50 ppm chlorides
40 ppm sulfates 250 ppm total disolved solids

If you use distilled water, buy it in 1 gallon containers and mix any unused portion with coolant as soon as reasonably possible. Distilled water absorbs CO2 from the air and forms acids.

If you want a true long life coolant, my choice is G05. G05 is the factory fill in Mercedes Benz, some chryslers, some Fords and some Volkswagons. It has been around long enough to have a good track record with many different materials and conditions. Ford and M-B even use it in HD truck applications. It is available from several sources and in several colors.
Chrysler - orange
Mercedes - clear
Ford - Gold/yellow (Motorcraft Premium gold)
Zerex - Gold/yellow

G05 seems to be good for at least 5 years/100,000 miles but the rest of your system isn't. Radiator caps, hoses, fittings, tees will all probably be outlived by the coolant.

If you choose long life, I think you should also go with a stainless steel "premium" thermostat (Stant has one), silicone premium hoses (Goodyear, Gates and Samcosport are good sources), or the new electrochemical resistant "Gates greenstripe" hoses, premium brass fitting and brass or soldered copper tees. If the freeze plugs are old, I'd replace them with brass too.

If you do all that and put in G05 you should be good for 5 years but you still better inspect it every year.

WaterWetter: I don't know what it actually is. The bottle only says "contains alkaline materials." It comes in a diesel version and a gas engine version. Redline tells me that the diesel version contains less or no additives because it is expected that all diesels will be run with coolant mixes already containing additives; the gas version has additives (probably mostly or all for corrosion) because it may be used with water only or with a coolant mix. Of course, I bet they dont know how awesome I am, of they would tell me what this stuff is. Racers use water only, because of coolant spill issues (antifreeze slippery) on the track and because water only has better heat transfer properties than an antifreeze mix. The Water Wetter provides maximum benefit of improved heat transfer with water only; but is still effective with any antifreeze mix. In the summer with no risk of freezing, I dont see a problem other then I'm concerned that it is likely to increase cavitation, but I might be overly cautous. Do an internet search on "black coolant" and you will find an OEM approved (but not GM approved) alternative formula that should also improve heat transfer. Here's one: http://www.penray.com/images/99.014.pdf
 

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