Water Pump Replacement HOWTO on earlier 107's - Page 5 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #41 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 02:45 PM
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Just finished the water pump installation on my '84 380/500SL. I removed the distributor without even checking if it needed to be removed or not. The bottom bolt is too long to come out without moving the balancer. Also, it sits about an inch below the notch. I took out three top balancer bolts and loosened the three remaining lower bolts enough to allow the bottom water pump bolt to come out.
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post #42 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 03:02 PM
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Harmonic balancer removal

I did have to remove the harmonic balancer on my 560SL to get the bottom bolt out. I also understand that 380ís require the same.
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post #43 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 03:07 PM
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I did have to remove the harmonic balancer on my 560SL to get the bottom bolt out. I also understand that 380ís require the same.
Yes, I used the same balancer and sheave from my 380 and bolted them on to my 500 engine. The radiator did not have to come out but you have to be very careful with tools to not damage it.
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post #44 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 04:58 PM
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Hello,
This caught my eye and just wanted to ask about it. I am new here and just did this job recently. When I did get down to the water pump bolts I saw they were behind the harmonic. There is a rounded notch on mine. It didn't hit me right away to rotate the engine to let an socket extension clear. I was happy MB spared me the removal of the harmonic balance. I had enough to do. I am just hobby level with a wrench not the wisdom here.

I have been reading great info on everything. Ordered the Envoro-safe for the AC. Thanks.
LB
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post #45 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 08:17 PM
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Hello,
This caught my eye and just wanted to ask about it. I am new here and just did this job recently. When I did get down to the water pump bolts I saw they were behind the harmonic. There is a rounded notch on mine. It didn't hit me right away to rotate the engine to let an socket extension clear. I was happy MB spared me the removal of the harmonic balance. I had enough to do. I am just hobby level with a wrench not the wisdom here.

I have been reading great info on everything. Ordered the Envoro-safe for the AC. Thanks.
LB
With all that must be removed from the front of these engines in order to change the water pump, what's the big deal about 1 more bolt? Plus you get to change the front seal in the process.

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post #46 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 04:58 AM
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Pressure. It was in my wifes spot in the garage...Too late now but anyone have trouble with the Beck Arney water pump I used?
I got some negative from the Classic Cnt about it. Should have asked here.

The old while you're in there happens anyway. The engine was caked with gunk that you can't get to otherwise. Saw green on the backside of the radiator from pin holes and had it recored. Found all the belts and hoses on ebay hope that was not a mistake. Needed that 2 in long hose on top of the water pump. CC sent me 6 ft of it. I thought it was unique with a braid over the rubber but the new one was plain.

That is one of a few mechanical repairs in about 18yrs as a Sunday driver. The hours I spent must have save me a lot of bucks. Had the usual things like the AC and heater coming on etc. I might tackle the rear coil springs soon. Could be a pain for DYI with floor jacks and cheap spring compressor. Had done some cosmetic things like floor carpet and have seat pads and covers to have installed next. Those pads are the more than the new covers so the seats will run over 1500. But good news looks like the value is climbing on an early R107.

If I get the AC going my driving season in Florida could double. (Oh I know open the big vent over your head)
LB
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post #47 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 11:30 AM
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Uh, removing the harmonic balancer does not require removing the crank flange bolt. Good thing, too, since that one's a bastard to get off and on (300+ foot-pounds of torque!). The harmonic balancer is attached to the crank flange with either 6 or 8 bolts (I'm too lazy to look it up), and those you can get on and off easily enough. The hardest part on mine was getting the balancer in the right position to have all the bolt holes line up, even the one that's offset.

"Engineered like no other car in the world." That's both a bug and a feature.
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post #48 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 02:09 PM
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Aligning the balancer is a true pain. Those six holes are not symmetrical and you can spend hours trying, especially if you do not remove the radiator. I learned that during the engine swap and, instead of removing all six bolts, I removed only the top three, backing the bottom three out only enough to allow that dreaded bolt to come out. This way the clocking was preserved.
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post #49 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 03:47 PM
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Aligning the balancer is a true pain. Those six holes are not symmetrical and you can spend hours trying, especially if you do not remove the radiator.
What finally did it for me was to lower my phone to the level of the crank and take a picture, so I could see how the odd bolt was oriented...and then put the balancer and crank pulley on it, using my phone camera again to make sure it got lined up right.
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post #50 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 05:27 PM
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Uh, removing the harmonic balancer does not require removing the crank flange bolt. Good thing, too, since that one's a bastard to get off and on (300+ foot-pounds of torque!). The harmonic balancer is attached to the crank flange with either 6 or 8 bolts (I'm too lazy to look it up), and those you can get on and off easily enough. The hardest part on mine was getting the balancer in the right position to have all the bolt holes line up, even the one that's offset.
Those 6 bolts go through the pulley cluster then through the balance and then thread into the crankshaft hub. The crankshaft hub is attached to the crank via the 27 mm bolt. The Balance itself is the 8" or 10" heavy round dusk, usually green in color, with a hard rubber insert attaching it's outer and inner rings. It's the piece that has the two notches in it pictured below. On my '83 380 I could not get the lower bolt out without first removing the the balance.

Water Pump Replacement HOWTO on earlier 107's-mercwaterpumpboltpattern.jpg

Here's the crankshaft hub...

Water Pump Replacement HOWTO on earlier 107's-merccrankhub.jpg
The 27 mm bolt holding the hub to the crankshaft is not torqued to anywhere near 300 ft/lbs. I spun mine right off with my Craftsman impact wrench. The bolt was no tighter than a lug nut. I didn't even need a puller to remove the balance or the hub once the bolt was out... the balance pulled right off by hand as did the hub. Once the hub is removed the lower front seal is sitting right there... it's a trivial job to change the seal once everything is off. Like I said earlier... if you've already taken off the 6 bolts that secure the pulley cluster and the balance to the hub, it's on more bolt... albeit a 27mm bolt... but it's one more bolt to get the hub off and gain access to the seal.

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