Water Pump Replacement HOWTO on earlier 107's - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #31 of 62 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 05:08 PM
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I have 1985 380SL, and I had to pull the balancer. New subject: after I finished my water pump project, I have a high idle problem. It was intermittent before. I went through the troubleshooting flow chart and found no voltage at the idle stabilizer, nor on pin 2 of the idle control unit plug. This is where things get wierd. The flow chart says check black/red cable between contact 2 and fuse 14. I found no continuity between those two points and furthermore when I checked the wiring diagram it does not show such a connection. It shows that pin 2 gets power from the OVP running from the relay contacts to a terminal (C185) to pin 2. ??? Anyone familiar with this area!
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post #32 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 05:43 PM
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So, anyone know if you have to pull the distributor on a 1983 380SL? Or is there not a bolt lurking behind it?

And if you disconnect the transmission cooler lines, what do you use to cap them off so you don't dump out all of the transmission fluid?

There are three nuts you have to loosen on the power steering pump to loosen the belt, right? Upper left, lower left, lower right? I can't get the one on the lower right to loosen...

"Engineered like no other car in the world." That's both a bug and a feature.
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post #33 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 09:20 AM
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Getting ready to replace water pump on my 1984 380/500SL. So far, from what I've read, the only challenge will be the removal of the harmonic balancer. Anyone knows if I need to pull the distributor? Mine has a bolt holding it down, not a nut on the stud.
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post #34 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 11:13 AM
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Anyone knows if I need to pull the distributor? Mine has a bolt holding it down, not a nut on the stud.
Yes, you will need to remove the distributor. Make sure to rotate the engine (clockwise looking at it from the front) until it's at TDC on cylinder 1, with the distributor rotor pointing rearward, before you remove either the harmonic balancer or the distributor. If you rotate the engine with the distributor out, make sure to rotate it an even number of turns so you don't get the distributor 180 degrees out of phase. BTDT.

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post #35 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jaymaynard View Post
Yes, you will need to remove the distributor. Make sure to rotate the engine (clockwise looking at it from the front) until it's at TDC on cylinder 1, with the distributor rotor pointing rearward, before you remove either the harmonic balancer or the distributor. If you rotate the engine with the distributor out, make sure to rotate it an even number of turns so you don't get the distributor 180 degrees out of phase. BTDT.
You can do it without removing the harmonic balancer. I did. There is a notch at some point on the balancer. I believe that what I did was loosened the bolt that is blocked by the balancer with a wrench. You can then line the notch up with the bolt in question and use a nut driver to get it out. I think that when I went to put the bolt back, I started it using both of my index fingers. The nut driver didn't line up directly with the bolt hole so I couldn't use it to get the bolt started. Once it's lines up with the hole, thread it with the nut driver and then use a wrench to finish it up.
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post #36 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:07 PM
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Roger that, pull the distributor and try getting at the two lower bolts without removing the balancer. Thanks jaymaynard and Mirv.
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post #37 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 08:53 PM
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I remember doing my 1984 500sl water pump. It's kind of funny, I had my a.c. compressor go out about a year before the water pump, when I looked into replacing the compressor and saw the amount of work I said I will wait till the water pump goes out... well it also went out, I did not have to remove the counter balance, but everything else had to come off. The complete front of the motor, radiator, fan, shroud, distributor all had to come out and when it was, the a.c. compressor was there so i replaced it too. But that is another story. Good luck it's not a hard job, I would just say think about any other things that could use to be replaced and do it all then.
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post #38 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 08:57 PM
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It was a really long time ago, maybe 10 years. i will see if i have pictures to comfirm.
post #39 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 07:56 AM
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Cast iron blocks require neither damper or distributor be removed. Alloy blocked engines require distributor removal and iirc damper removal on the 560 only
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post #40 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 02:50 PM
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I just replaced the water pump on my '83 380sl. Everything on the front of the engine with the exception of the A/C compressor had to come off... including the balance.

Sidebar: I was told that none of the bolts securing the water pump go all the way into the water jackets but a few of the bolts I removed had some rust on them and some (not much) water came out of a few of the holes. As a precaution I replaced "all" the bolts with new SS bolts and used Teflon reenforced thread compound on all the bolts.

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