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Topic: Bearing replacement without new hub Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2019 09:04 AM
Noodles When I bought an SKF bearing for a W211 and a W163 NTN bearings were in both boxes. The old bearings that cam out were indeed NTN bearings.
07-02-2019 06:05 AM
Legodude I've worked on many benz's and i don't see SKF as being OEM for the front tapered wheel bearings. They are aftermarket, but a good name brand. Timken is good also. I believe NTN or something like that is OE. Any good grease will work, I tend to put a tad bit more than MB recommends. I don't flood them. Best advice is to borrow or buy a magnetic base and dial indicator. Try and get those adjusted to about 1/2 a thousandth of an inch. If you don't get the races seated well, they will walk and you might need to re-adjust.
Identical proceedure to any other car except the wheel bearing adjusted.


Michaeel
06-26-2019 07:54 PM
nineolivers I recently replaced the front wheel bearings, without changing the hub. I will say that most of the job was easy but I have two comments.

1. Knocking out the inner race was tough. Took a long time and a lot of elbow grease to get it out with a long, flat tip screwdriver. You might find a better way.

2. I put the seal in and was pressing it in with a bearing seating tool. While I was gentle with it, I was using a driver set that was approx the diameter of the seal. I pressed it in slightly below the hub surface and when I had it together, the ABS,ESP light came on. I purchased a new one and seated it with a slightly oversized press tool. It worked fine after that.

A note, the first seal was not MB, the second was. However, the first type worked on one side, so I think while the MB seal might be better, the aftermarket seal probably works if it is pressed correctly. I think the bigger issue is to press it in flush with the hub surface and not too deep and it should work.
12-20-2012 05:22 PM
realeric Don't change the wheel bearing if it doesn't make noise. The movement can be adjusted by fastening the locking bolt a little.

You just need a flat screw driver, 5mm allen wrench, 17mm socket(wheel bolt), and a jack & jack stand.

- remove front tire.
- remove hub cap with a flat screw screw driver.
- get 5mm bolt loose.
- fasten bearing lock (1 degree or something)
- check the movement (free rotation & no vertical movement) (you can do it without the dial gauge).
- fasten 5mm bolt(10Nm), install hub cap, install tire.

It's a very easy job. I think this should be a 60,000 miles regular maintenance item.

Refer a youtube video(2004 e320 wheel hub/bearing replacement - YouTube) but I had to fasten more than that (i.e., finger tighten + 1 degree more).
12-20-2012 02:58 PM
VII7 I'm sorry to hear about your experience with IPW, they did source the correct ones for me but I'll think twice before ordering from them again after your experience.
Maybe you could provide MB part numbers for the bearings for future reference. (They don't appear in my version of EPC)
12-03-2012 07:49 PM
moe_clk500
AVOID IPW Auto Parts!!!!!

I am glad to find this thread again to share my experience with IPW..

So I went ahead and bought a full set of inner and outer bearings for both front sides for my 2003 E500 and when they arrived I took them my indy, found out after hours of trying to mount them that they are the wrong ones, they look identical at first glance but with closer comparison one of the edges is different, so I contact IPW and send them pics of both parts and they finally agree that it was a mistake with their cataloge.. So I send them back for a refund as they advised but they never give me my money back as they promised, made a few phone calls and still no refund.. I got frustrated and called them again and this time they tell me that they do not appreciate being treated in a rude way by their customers LOL I mean i waited 6 months for them to give me my money back and I still have not received a thing!! I called the manager and apparently his employee already told him about my frustration and he sided with his employee, he also does not appreciate his customers treating his employees like i did!!!

A bunch of scammers, avoid at all cost, plus I got the parts from the dealer for the same price if not lower after factoring in the shipping, I ended up buying from them bc the stupid parts desk at my dealer initially told me that they only come with the hub which costs some $400+ but with some persistence apparently they can sell them separate...

Beware of scammer everywhere these days!!
04-19-2012 12:45 PM
VII7
Update

I have now replaced driver's side bearing with perfect results.

Parts were sourced as follows:
From IPW Automotive Warehouse - 303-825-2000 Denver, CO USA
Outer bearing = SKF BR12 $7.67
Inner bearing = SKF 32008XQVB458 $23.15
From MB dealer
Seal = 025 997 16 47 $7.50
From local auto store
Grease = Mobile 1 Synthetic $12

If I get someone to hold the camera I'll post a DIY when I do the other side.
04-19-2012 11:18 AM
VII7
Quote:
Originally Posted by zane-z View Post
My car has 75,000 miles on its clock. Replacing the bearings now might be a bit premature. But when I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock There is movement. I would like to check the pre-load on the hub assembly to make sure that it is properly seated before replacing bearings. That is why I'm looking for the correct pre load setting for the bearing hub assembly now.
Bearing play should be 0.01mm to 0.02mm. I've attached the complete instructions.
04-12-2012 02:36 PM
zane-z My car has 75,000 miles on its clock. Replacing the bearings now might be a bit premature. But when I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock There is movement. I would like to check the pre-load on the hub assembly to make sure that it is properly seated before replacing bearings. That is why I'm looking for the correct pre load setting for the bearing hub assembly now.
04-12-2012 11:39 AM
Noodles Are you sure the bearings are bad? Now many miles has the car gone?
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