Mercedes-Benz Forum - Reply to Topic
Topic: Car switched off in Park, won't start again. Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-25-2019 01:14 PM
dolucasi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Premo S View Post
I initially thought the fuel sender was the culprit, hence my inquiry to find out how to strip it.

Unbeknown to me, my mechanic also replaced the thin wires with copper ones. . I only found out this morning

The fuel gauge now sits at the FULL mark.

I feel the gauge should read about 3/4 . A visual check of the actual level in the tank shows that there is about a 15-18 centimetre air gap between the level of the fuel and the top of the tank. Am I correct in my assumption?

Thanks,
Premo
Not sure what your mechanic was thinking. The wires need to be the proper "resistive" wires. If they are near zero resistance copper, I would suspect your tank will always read full no matter what the amount of fuel in the tank.

Probably need to get a new one from a junkyard assuming you do not want to spend money on a new expensive one.

- Cheers!
06-25-2019 10:15 AM
Premo S
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolucasi View Post
Good to hear. I do not recall you stated what the problem was other than you wanted to open it.

If it is super jumpy you need to clean those two thin wires with carborator cleaner, etc. very very carefully and gently. Do not want to snap those wires.

If it is not working at all, you need to start measuring things with a multimeter. It may take some diagnostic work.

- Cheers!
I initially thought the fuel sender was the culprit, hence my inquiry to find out how to strip it.

Unbeknown to me, my mechanic also replaced the thin wires with copper ones. . I only found out this morning

The fuel gauge now sits at the FULL mark.

I feel the gauge should read about 3/4 . A visual check of the actual level in the tank shows that there is about a 15-18 centimetre air gap between the level of the fuel and the top of the tank. Am I correct in my assumption?

Thanks,
Premo
06-24-2019 07:55 PM
dolucasi Good to hear. I do not recall you stated what the problem was other than you wanted to open it.

If it is super jumpy you need to clean those two thin wires with carborator cleaner, etc. very very carefully and gently. Do not want to snap those wires.

If it is not working at all, you need to start measuring things with a multimeter. It may take some diagnostic work.

- Cheers!
06-24-2019 01:02 PM
Premo S
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolucasi View Post
Looks like the same as mine. Clean out the bottom center area, and take a closer up picture, looks like there is some crud in there.

It should have a circular small brass nut that is slotted/keyed.

Long story short, that black piece has to come out and it can not with that nut (attached to a rod in the sender)

- Cheers!

Hello,

Great and not so great news,

The crud was cleaned and we saw the brass nut, see attached pictures. Once stripped, we found that the float was jammed. It was cleaned we checked that it slid freely by tilting the unit in a vertical manner. I do have a video of the test procedure.

The frustrating part is that the problem is still there,

Please advise on the procedure to test the fuel gauge and wiring.

Best wishes,
Premo
06-23-2019 12:34 PM
dolucasi Looks like the same as mine. Clean out the bottom center area, and take a closer up picture, looks like there is some crud in there.

It should have a circular small brass nut that is slotted/keyed.

Long story short, that black piece has to come out and it can not with that nut (attached to a rod in the sender)

- Cheers!
06-23-2019 11:34 AM
Premo S
Quote:
Originally Posted by dolucasi View Post
Best advice I can extend to you is to post a picture of the bottom, since it has to slide down in that direction.

- Cheers!
Please review attached pictures and advise. Much appreciated!
06-09-2019 02:30 PM
dolucasi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Premo S View Post
Thanks for your comments.

There isn't a keyed nut at the bottom. This really stumped me. This is quite different to the ones that I seen on Youtube.

The electrical portion is angled away from the main tube.

Any ideas on how I can remove the tube?

Thanks,
Premo
Best advice I can extend to you is to post a picture of the bottom, since it has to slide down in that direction.

- Cheers!
06-09-2019 12:34 PM
Premo S Thanks for your comments.

There isn't a keyed nut at the bottom. This really stumped me. This is quite different to the ones that I seen on Youtube.

The electrical portion is angled away from the main tube.

Any ideas on how I can remove the tube?

Thanks,
Premo
06-02-2019 05:48 PM
dolucasi If it is the same as a 2.6 fuel tank:

There is a small keyed nut at the bottom. You need a flat head screw driver that is notched in the center.

After you remove that, do not man handle the body as it is fragile.

I believe you may need to bend the tabs on top to remove the shell. Again be gentle.

I assume you are trying to fix a dead or jumpy gauge. Also be careful with the thin 2 wires in there when you are wiping them with solvent.

When you put it back together most likely the cap will start leaking fuel when tank is full. You will need to purchase new O-rings and really clean the surfaces. I had to lightly sand mine to make it smooth again.

Good luck with this.
06-02-2019 11:35 AM
Premo S Wow, Estcourt is about an 2 hours from me.

Would you or anyone on this forum know how to strip the fuel level sender body?

I removed it and noted that the top section is angled and there is no nut at the bottom end to loosen the unit.


Thanks,
Premo
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome