|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-25-2019 04:59 AM|
Problem haven't re-appeared since I replaced the front wheel speed sensor.
|06-19-2019 05:57 PM|
Update (19 June)
Purchase a non-OEM speed sensor from a local parts store. Before putting it on the car, I tried to ohm it out to get a reading from the new part. Could not get any ohm reading from the part (from lowest to highest resistance settings on my multi-meter). Even tried the continuity test and nothing there either. Replaced the one on my left front wheel, U1409 (did not swap the original part back). Made several trips thus far, even in stop and go traffic and everything seem to be good. Will continue to drive it the rest of the week to make sure it doesn't come back again. Will update if something changed or when I'm confident that fixed the problem.
|06-18-2019 11:33 AM|
Found the problem (99% sure)
After doing more testing with the multimeter, checking resistance and voltage across connectors, every look good--at least consistent on the four wheels. The only thing I was not able to do, on any wheel, is to spin them to generate a voltage from the sensors.
While checking the OBDII port, I notice a lightly gray-out code U140A on my Torque software. After so research, look like it is a right front wheel speed sensor. To be sure, I checked the resistance and voltage again, comparing both front sensors. All still the same. So I swap the front left and right sensors. Drove it for over 80 miles when the lights came ON. Pulled over and read the OBDII port again and, this time, it thrown a U1409 code, which is now the left front wheel speed sensor--make sense since I swapped it.
Got one on order now. Will report back if it solved the issue.
|06-07-2019 05:04 AM|
Waiting to get delivery of the new front brake pads today. The back brake pads look new.
Also, there is no "brake pedal switch" in this vehicle--at least not on top of the interior brake pedal like other cars.
|06-05-2019 03:49 AM|
|[email protected]||Ohm out both front speed sensors as well and from what I can tell they look good, all four is between 460 - 480 ohms.|
|06-04-2019 08:59 AM|
ESP + ABS Lights
(sorry for the re-post, I originally posted it on the wrong forum W164 instead of X164).
I have read through many threads here and also elsewhere and watch many videos. But none described exactly the problem I am having.
Vehicle: 2009 MB GL320 BlueTec
Within the past month, while driving, the ESP light will start blinking and I can feel the braking system "pumping the brakes". From inside the car, it sound like it is coming from the rear wheels. After a few seconds (10 seconds), the ESP and ABS lights come ON solid. First time this happened, I was in heavy slow traffic so stopping constantly. Second time this happened, I was on the highway and was coming to a stop off an exit. Then it happened again in heavy slow traffic with constant stop. But every time this happened, I can feel the brake pumping (when ESP is blinking) and, eventually, both ESP + ABS lights stay ON.
Every time this happened, the car behaved differently. The first time, lights came ON and I was able to drive normally. The next time, lights came ON, feel like the car will not go into high gear. I can get up to maybe 40 MPH at 3200 RPM and it won't go any faster. The last two times it happened, lights came ON and the car will roll down the road with my foot off the brake but when I push on the gas pedal, the brake will engage and stop the car (also feel like its prevented the engine from rev'ing up to high).
If I turn off the car and back ON, the two lights will come back on instantly and will behave like described above. But if I turn off the car and let it sit for about 15 minutes or longer and turn it back ON, lights will stay OFF and I can drive normally. One time, the lights eventually come back ON about 5 minutes into the drive and I was still able to drive normally, even with stop-and-go.
Unfortunately, none of my ABS or OBDII scanners could pickup any code. The ABS scanner actually said it can't communicate with the unit (even had the person at O'Reily tried their). But I read that this could be cause by a weak/bad battery so I installed a new main and aux batteries last weekend (AGMs) but the problem persisted. Both O'Reilly and Advanced Auto said I had a bad battery (but now I am questioning that since O'Reilly refused to connect their tester at the battery terminal because it is inside the vehicle due to store policy and Advanced Auto only used a volt meter because their unit was dead).
Unlike other posts whose lights come ON when their start the car, mine only come on randomly, independent of speed or distance. I drove it over 300 miles on a trip two weekend ago and everything was normal. On the drive home, above 50 miles into the drive, the lights came ON (coming off the exit to a stop).
I am just at a lost. I know it could be a wheel speed sensor but I have tested both back ones (ohm'ing them out and they looked good). Will do the front pair tonight. Also read it could be a brake pedal switch or wore brake pads.
Coincidentally, I have been having the same problem on my BMW since last September (2018). Replaced all 4 speed sensors, steering angle sensor, yaw sensor, had battery and alternator tested several times (tested good) and I get the same lights problem, except it is with DTS (equal to ESP here) and TPM (not ABS). Took the BMW to the dealer to read the code (nothing showing up on my scanners either) and they are the one that said it was the steering angle sensor, which it is not after spending over $700 to replace and reprogram it.
Any idea on the MB? I hate to take it to the same dealership that diagnosed my BMW "problem" as they are the only game in town (BMW/Mercedes dealership).
Thanks in advance.