|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-28-2019 09:05 AM|
|chiman||Total in agreement with others. At $28K Euro, it is a joke! Also, if you are not handy to do minor repair/maintenance on a MB, buy a Toyota. Trust me, you can't afford to pay someone to do the repair for you.|
|06-26-2019 11:17 AM|
Bear in mind there is rust in places that is difficult to repair, otherwise they would have fixed it before the sale. Some rusty places cannot be repaired unless new metal is added. It is at a point where the vehicle requires expert care and I am not sure from what you say you are up to it.
It is a project, if you take it up, as others have said, make sure there is expert help, but then again, even if expert help is around, who is going to work on it. I'd rather, just like you drive around in it . The best are cars come from where there is no salt on the road.
My friend still has a Alfa romeo spider, these cars from Euro have a lot of rust, especially with Italian jobs, they seem rust quicker than others.
This car body was painful to fix, new bubbles kept popping up from under the paint, a never ending story, eventually, it had to be the whole car (stripped) really painful.
There are many out and better ones too, I'd import one.thumbsup:
|06-25-2019 07:39 PM|
Originally Posted by dleman View Post
It's such a shame too. These cars are absolutely incredible in the snow. It's funny, because it's been said that the Americans do air conditioning really well, but the Germans do heat really well.
I love it when it is cold outside and you turn on the heater. I don't know how they do it, but that heater is so warm and cozy.
Like a fire, good cigar, snow on the window, whiskey type of cozy.
|06-25-2019 03:58 PM|
|dleman||Be VERY careful with cars of this vintage in the UK. Generally there is so much underbody corrosion (from salted roads) the only thing holding them together is the paint .. :-( .. ! This is not conjecture, it comes from bitter personal experience.|
|06-24-2019 12:39 PM|
Buying an remote R107 as club member
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
I would recommend you to do some more research and at some point to become member of the german R/C107 club! You can rely on strong support anywhere in Germany then, there are technically skilled members and they will help you instantly. There is one of the main expert coming from Denmark for all of us. I would never buy a car, spend a fortune or restore one without the support of experienced other owners. There are also fair estimates on the value of cars and the trends in prices.
I spend a 5digit number on restoring a coupe which didn`t have to have a lot, bur just some rust...
The better car is the better buy!
It is not guaranteed that all club members sell cars cheaper or better cars ... but there are fair deals and well preserved cars for value to have.
Take your time and choose the best! Yours S
|06-20-2019 05:21 AM|
|Hirnbeiss||The seller looks very thorough and open (presumably honest), but as others mentioned, the price is very high.|
|06-19-2019 10:43 PM|
Originally Posted by Rasmus Egeskov Davidsen View Post
|06-19-2019 10:28 PM|
Originally Posted by dugald View Post
|06-19-2019 01:33 PM|
Originally Posted by Rasmus Egeskov Davidsen View Post
I know you have your heart set, but a little mechanical education on these beasts is a must since you have a lot of leeway to make your "toy" purchase go farther. I mean, we just saved you from sinking money into a black hole so let's expand your knowledge.
I wouldn't consider the US cars "bug bears" as a lot of that can be modified. If you purchase a US car, you can have any exhaust shop remove the catalyst and straight pipe the exhaust since your car will no longer be subject to emissions regulations which removes that annoyance from the equation. This won't impact performance and can be done for pretty cheap.
The US 380SL, while a dog HP wise, will get you 20 US mpg (or ~11.7 L/100km) on the highway when the engine is properly tuned running 87 RON as in the cheap fuel at the pump. Any other vehicle and you'll have to put in premium for the added expense. Yes the car is a cruiser and not a @roncallo speed demon, but it gets the job done.
Frankly, the fuel ECU systems on these cars are stupid easy to troubleshoot and with an o2 sensor, allow you the benefit of more easily tuning the engine to get peak performance. A euro car like a pre-1986 500/380SL that hasn't been federalized will require a CO2 sniffer on the tailpipe to properly tune the engine. My knowledge of pre Kjet cars is limited and sadly I don't know what the differences of the earlier DJet r107s were.
Yes, you can fiddle with the air metering screw to get it "close" but without a tool to measure output you're just guessing and it will never be perfect the way Hans in Stuttgart designed it.
This is assuming someone has touched the metering screw which at this point in time is almost a certainty.
If you go post 1986, you will have the KE-Jet system to deal with which does have fuel trim and electrical stuff that makes everything I just said easier. I'm not sure if they have a catalytic converter on the european models, but you could also in theory remove them. The UK SL Shop has the european headers and exhaust systems to retrofit all of this. They do have "europeanized" 560SLs which are faster than what you guys got in Europe.
If you go earlier (1976?), you have the Djet injection system to worry about. I am speaking blasphemy here, but that injection system looks complicated, crotchety, and scares the living crap out of me. It's an early style fuel rail system designed with electrical components and ECUs from the 60s and 70s. It's amazing what some of the guys here can do, but man they look like a nightmare to get right. Not to mention, certain parts for it look to be impossible to find.
Your aversion to having a battery in the trunk is an odd one. I consider that a big feature. Batteries in the engine bay are exposed to massive heating and cooling shocks which drastically reduce the life of the them. Having the battery in the trunk makes them last way way longer. A lot of modern cars (my old Prius especially), moved the battery into the trunk for that reason.
As for the US bumpers, US lights, and rear seats. I feel you on that. However, remember that all of those are highly desirable parts and will add to the markup value of the car. You'd make your cash go farther by buying a good US example and replacing those later. The rear seat and seatbelts can be had for around $1000.
You'll also get better cooling capacity with R12 than with r134a. Granted European summers aren't that hot, so this is a bit of a wash.
Look mate, we're trying not to discourage you but rather give you the entire "lay of the land" as we say in America or the full disclosure. Djenka018 really hit it hard on the head. The last model year of these cars are quickly approaching the 30 year old mark and some even are turning 48!
These cars will require mechanical attention and can be very needy. They say the only people that can afford these cars are mechanics and the rich. There is some truth to that. If becoming a hobbyist mechanic isn't in your plan, then expect to pay a mechanic to be doing a lot of preventative work to keep the car going and passable for country's inspection program. I expect shop rates in your part of Europe to be pretty expensive.
Now that we've set your expectations, I would encourage you to visit the SL Shop in the UK as well as take a look at their website. They have a showroom and can give you an honest appraisal of their vehicles If they can get their cars to pass the UK's MOT, then in my not so humble opinion they will be able to fit the bill of what you are looking for.
|06-19-2019 12:47 PM|
I just did a quick internet search on importing an old car into the EU. It looks a bit complicated but not really expensive.
For well under 28k Euro (=31k USD) you should be able to find a nice rust-free example, equipped as you like, in the USA where most of these cars were sold. Keep your eye on eBay.com and be patient.
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