|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-18-2019 01:37 PM|
Some misc. thoughts
I have to say that I am somewhat flummoxed by your non-starting issue. Based on the contents of your posts you have ruled out just about everything. I just have a couple of other things you may want to check/try just in case (with your original ECU).
You say you are getting fuel because you can smell it. You can positively rule out fuel as an issue with a little bit of starting spray (ether) at the MAF. If the motor tries to start or runs a bit on cranking, there is a fuel issue (even though you can still smell it).
You said that you are getting movement of the tach on cranking. The tach signal is available on pin 10 of the diagnostic connector. The voltage on this pin should pulse between +12 and ground as you crank the engine. If you have signal here, the CPS is definitely working.
|06-18-2019 08:37 AM|
You sure you replaced the wiring harness w/the right part number?
I hear it changed in mid-95???
|06-11-2019 01:54 AM|
|plinker17722||Do change parts of the engine electronics with the same part numbers . They might look the same , and be one number out ,but this wont work like the right part .|
|06-10-2019 08:09 PM|
Check the power supply to your coil pack and verify.
These three coil packs cables are jointly connected to the left wing arch connector under a black plastic housing.
When you turn your key to position 2, you could measure a B+ voltage.
Make sure your engine have the power supply first.
Then, make sure your ECM could send out proper "spark signal" via ground.
When you crank your engine, you could check out its continuity between the negative side of your three COIL connectors
for 1/6, 2/5, 3/4 cylinder sparks and the car chassis ground.
ECM must send out ground signals to trigger your respective coils.
Without a continuity between them, you have no sparks.
Last I ever came upon a really rare case, that would be your car might come with a ME ECU for a HFM engine.
HFM and ME systems at this era have the same connectors, but the coil driver signals for its specific cylinders are not the same.
Thus you have no start issue.
|06-10-2019 01:00 PM|
Are you getting fuel delivery?
Are you getting spark?
To check, pull off a plug wire and hold it a couple inches from the engine while someone cranks the starter. Do you see spark jumping?
Sometimes the spark plugs get coated with fuel and it will never start. Are the plugs dry? If wet, put in new spark plugs.
These are the basics for any internal combustion engine check.
|06-10-2019 12:59 PM|
What engine did you have???
Is this a a124?
Sent fra min H8324 via Tapatalk
|06-10-2019 11:59 AM|
|hinshelwood||Got the new(used) ECU in today. Installed it plugged up the battery. Turned the key on to accessory mode and waited 4 minutes for the ECU to initialize. Turned the key off then tried to crank the car. Unfortunately the car would still crank over but not start. At a loss as to the problem now. Anyone have some ideas?|
|06-07-2019 02:48 PM|
Originally Posted by Walt'89300CE View Post
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|06-07-2019 01:58 PM|
|hinshelwood||I checked the voltage regulator yesterday. The brushes were longer than 0.5" and made solid contact with the rotor. The alternator is fairly new. My brother had replaced this about 2 years ago.|
|06-07-2019 01:52 PM|
Originally Posted by miltiano32 View Post
Always check the simple, cheap stuff first.
On the back of the alternator, perhaps behind a plastic screen, you will find two screws that fasten the voltage regulator to the alternator.
Remove the 2 screws and gently twist off the VR.
Examine the two brushes. If they are shorter than 1/2" in length, replace with a new VR- about $30.
There should be a part number on the side of the VR, which you want to match.
This is one of the most common causes of electrical/ignition failure.
And so easy & cheap to fix.
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