|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-13-2019 11:46 AM|
Update - Finally received back Fuel Distributor and test results of my injectors. 6 of 8 injectors failed either leak down, trigger or spray. Old diaphragm also appeared to have a number of pin holes and was badly worn. Put FD back on, new injectors and rest of hoses etc back together last evening. Did not jump fuel pump due to being able to see pic of my FD tested on flow bench from rebuilder. Within three or 4 30 second cranks it fired up. Few minor adjustments with stubborn to connect hoses that I thought were connected and it was time for a test drive.
So far I've put about 8 or so miles on it, not quite ready to say it runs perfectly just yet however the difference in throttle response and overall power is remarkable. I intend to put some more miles on it as I suspect there may be some air in the line going to the cold start injector perhaps and/or maybe some other air bubbles in a line or two that need to be worked through. Overall it's a big improvement! Will update with a bit more time on motor.
Side note I was able to find the throttle was not opening up fully and with a quick adjustment to the 10m bolt on the throttle bracket coming out of the firewall it's amazing how much more top end there is as well as proper trans kickdown.
|07-07-2019 01:07 PM|
Thinking at this price, won’t hurt to purchase and test. Even if the FPR currently in the car is good, would not hurt to have this as spare? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F163402043245
|07-07-2019 11:31 AM|
Originally Posted by lesguy View Post
You could either do what luckymike suggests, or you could check (easiest at terminal 9 of connector X26) if the (battery)voltage disappears at about 5600 rpm.
|07-07-2019 04:37 AM|
Maybe the rev limiter cuts in too early as fuel pump relay should shut off kick down at 5800 RPM. Anyhow fuel pump relay should shut off kick down if that was your question. As one releases pedal from kick down there is not happpening anything at the bowden cable or throttle linkages before kick down switch is released.
At the top of the W126 forum page stickies there is link to service manuals.
|07-06-2019 03:21 PM|
|lesguy||Thanks H.D. I appreciate your knowledge sharing and guidance. I’m learning from it. Question: is my full throttle no upshift from 2-3 possibly related to my fuel system? Or is that most likely a coincidence? Doesn’t concern me excessively because I don’t redline this engine as a matter of routine. But still, one likes to have their drivetrain in top order.|
|07-06-2019 01:47 PM|
Originally Posted by lesguy View Post
As explained in my Lambda control thread, with the Lambda adjustment screw … (I recommend to not even think of it as “mixture screw“, for reasons I explained in that thread) … turned according to anything other than EHA current (respectively duty cycle) without knowing what the EHA current (respectively the duty cycle) was before it was turned or how far exactly in what direction it has been turned, the duty cycle‘s diagnostic information is gone for good.
With this (unfortunately) being your situation now … if you place value on things to be reliably in proper condition & properly adjusted … install a good EHA who‘s adjustment screw setting is without doubt original. Then check and, if necessary, fix everything that has an effect on the fuel combustion. Don‘t forget what I said (in post 26) about dirt particles getting into the FD‘s lower chambers ! … Then check and, if necessary, adjust the duty cycle as described in post 2 of my Lambda control thread.
|07-06-2019 01:33 PM|
|lesguy||Fully warmed, idling in park, can hear the slight low rpm hesitation https://youtu.be/pondxaqAqYQ|
|07-06-2019 09:33 AM|
|lesguy||Idle when in gear: https://youtu.be/oCDNpqBdcdU|
|07-06-2019 09:28 AM|
|lesguy||First of a series of videos...first cold start today. Was 90’s outside but a bit cooler in garage. A tad longer crank time to start when cold. Not touching accelerator pedal before nor during start. https://youtu.be/SzYxGSh2cBQ|
|07-06-2019 04:05 AM|
Thanks HD. Understood. My original EHA was leaking, so not long after buying the car last fall, I replaced it with a used unit that a forum member sold me. The assumption was that the EHA screw was untampered with, but obviously no guarantees on that assumption. I do have written down my total number of clockwise turns I’ve made to the EHA, but I’m not 100% confident on number of turns made to the mixture screw under the tower as I found that initially I wasn’t pressing the Allen far down enough to engage the actual adjusting screw. So in the end, with car at idle, I adjusted counter clockwise until it stalled, turned clockwise just a bit to restart, then clockwise until it stalled. Then for final adjustment turned the screw to halfway between both stall points
Lucky mike: Unfortunately i do not have a spare FPR to test with. I’ll try to get video footage today of the no upshift issue in action to post
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