|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 02:10 PM|
Gentlemen, maybe you should really contemplate doing what I said in post 19:
You say that, from all you have read “the lambda screw should not be turned with the engine running“. That tells me that you've probably not read my Lambda control thread that I mentioned in posts 19, 22 & 32. … In that thread I explained under “Adjustment procedures“ in post 2, that the adjustment is always done while the engine is running at idle speed ! …
Before touching that adjustment screw, I warmly recommend to follow the above quote ! … But this is not my thread and what you (suggest to) do is up to you, of course. I‘ll not further interfere. …
|Today 12:26 PM|
JR420: From what I see in the pic, the anti tamper portion was removed from the tower, so yes, appears at some point and adjustment was made via that adjustment allen head inside the tower.
HD is giving you the correct guidance. And rumb's guidance is good as well
I'd suggest not touching the EHA screw
I also suggest that IF you touch the towers allen, you do it with engine off and make a TINY change that you track. That way if the results arent positive, you can easily put it back to where it was before you touched it.
Also, after you make any change? I suggest driving it for a few miles, turn ac on, turn ac off, go on the highway, go in stop and go, etc. Let the system fully adapt to the tiny change you make. Then make your decision as to whether any improvement, was made.
|Today 11:06 AM|
From all I have read the lambda screw should not be turned with the engine running. adjust in 1/8th or 1/16th turns and then measure again.
Personally I would put the EHA back where your found it and then read and adjust your duty cycle until that is in spec.
|Today 09:22 AM|
Originally Posted by JR420 View Post
P.S.: Without email notifications and the forum not functioning properly anymore (at least not on my smartphones) I may not notice new posts until I log in via PC, which I do only occasionally.
|07-16-2019 05:49 PM|
Second update - can say now for certain after a few more miles I can say an adjustment is needed. Runs exceptionally well under throttle, but not the smoothest idle. I should have paid attention to.this, but it would appear as though the throttle mixture was adjusted previously correct?
Vehicle had rough idle when I bought it so wouldn't be surprised. Throttle plate does seem to have appropriate play before hitting plunger (not 100% certain)
Makes me wonder about EHA.
|07-13-2019 11:46 AM|
Update - Finally received back Fuel Distributor and test results of my injectors. 6 of 8 injectors failed either leak down, trigger or spray. Old diaphragm also appeared to have a number of pin holes and was badly worn. Put FD back on, new injectors and rest of hoses etc back together last evening. Did not jump fuel pump due to being able to see pic of my FD tested on flow bench from rebuilder. Within three or 4 30 second cranks it fired up. Few minor adjustments with stubborn to connect hoses that I thought were connected and it was time for a test drive.
So far I've put about 8 or so miles on it, not quite ready to say it runs perfectly just yet however the difference in throttle response and overall power is remarkable. I intend to put some more miles on it as I suspect there may be some air in the line going to the cold start injector perhaps and/or maybe some other air bubbles in a line or two that need to be worked through. Overall it's a big improvement! Will update with a bit more time on motor.
Side note I was able to find the throttle was not opening up fully and with a quick adjustment to the 10m bolt on the throttle bracket coming out of the firewall it's amazing how much more top end there is as well as proper trans kickdown.
|07-07-2019 01:07 PM|
Thinking at this price, won’t hurt to purchase and test. Even if the FPR currently in the car is good, would not hurt to have this as spare? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F163402043245
|07-07-2019 11:31 AM|
Originally Posted by lesguy View Post
You could either do what luckymike suggests, or you could check (easiest at terminal 9 of connector X26) if the (battery)voltage disappears at about 5600 rpm.
|07-07-2019 04:37 AM|
Maybe the rev limiter cuts in too early as fuel pump relay should shut off kick down at 5800 RPM. Anyhow fuel pump relay should shut off kick down if that was your question. As one releases pedal from kick down there is not happpening anything at the bowden cable or throttle linkages before kick down switch is released.
At the top of the W126 forum page stickies there is link to service manuals.
|07-06-2019 03:21 PM|
|lesguy||Thanks H.D. I appreciate your knowledge sharing and guidance. I’m learning from it. Question: is my full throttle no upshift from 2-3 possibly related to my fuel system? Or is that most likely a coincidence? Doesn’t concern me excessively because I don’t redline this engine as a matter of routine. But still, one likes to have their drivetrain in top order.|
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