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Topic: 35mm lowering springs and shims ??? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-28-2019 12:14 PM
Snipersking
Quote:
Originally Posted by jal1224 View Post
Inspect the lower front wishbone inner bushings, front and rear. If they appear to be off center, bulging, or lopsided, replace them. The rear ones are fluid filled, and can rupture if old, or improperly installed. Both front and rear bushings must also be installed in the control arms with a particular orientation. New replacement arms have been known to have the bushings improperly oriented. There are instructions in the DIY section.

Disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle. You should be able to move it up and down by hand against the resistance of the bushings. If it or the upper ball joints are frozen, replace the arms. If the upper ball joints are split, but the joints are still good, you can replace just the boots with ones from a Porsche 928. Do a search here for a pictorial on how to do it. While the upper control arm is disconnected, make sure you can move the spindle assembly pivoting on the lower ball joint. If the lower ball joint is frozen or extremely difficult to move fore and aft or in and out, replace it.

Make sure the sway bar body mount bushings are good. They should be considered a wear item and periodically replaced. They can wear so badly as to create metal to metal contact.


Bro believe it or not all the components you have mentioned were replaced but I think the mechanic did something wrong [emoji20]


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04-28-2019 07:33 AM
jal1224 Inspect the lower front wishbone inner bushings, front and rear. If they appear to be off center, bulging, or lopsided, replace them. The rear ones are fluid filled, and can rupture if old, or improperly installed. Both front and rear bushings must also be installed in the control arms with a particular orientation. New replacement arms have been known to have the bushings improperly oriented. There are instructions in the DIY section.

Disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle. You should be able to move it up and down by hand against the resistance of the bushings. If it or the upper ball joints are frozen, replace the arms. If the upper ball joints are split, but the joints are still good, you can replace just the boots with ones from a Porsche 928. Do a search here for a pictorial on how to do it. While the upper control arm is disconnected, make sure you can move the spindle assembly pivoting on the lower ball joint. If the lower ball joint is frozen or extremely difficult to move fore and aft or in and out, replace it.

Make sure the sway bar body mount bushings are good. They should be considered a wear item and periodically replaced. They can wear so badly as to create metal to metal contact.
04-28-2019 05:41 AM
Snipersking
35mm lowering springs and shims ???

Yesterday I installed the new shimes but with little improvement, I wonder why the hell front suspension is still stiff !!!


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04-26-2019 03:45 PM
Snipersking
Quote:
Originally Posted by jal1224 View Post
Have you checked the front and rear subframe to body mounts? If they've collapsed, you will get a lot of harshness transferred to the body.


I thought that one first, but the are fine, they are not hard even, tomorrow am going to replace the shimes and I will post the result.

Wish me luck


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04-26-2019 01:33 PM
jal1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipersking View Post
I am sure no SLS


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Have you checked the front and rear subframe to body mounts? If they've collapsed, you will get a lot of harshness transferred to the body.
04-25-2019 01:49 PM
Snipersking
Quote:
Originally Posted by jal1224 View Post
You sure you don't have SLS? Sure sounds like accumulators going bad.


I am sure no SLS


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04-25-2019 01:47 PM
jal1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipersking View Post
I donít believe so the suspension has been inspected several times nothing is broken and no rattling or whatsoever, the Shocks are OE and this roughness started gradually.


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You sure you don't have SLS? Sure sounds like accumulators going bad.
04-25-2019 10:22 AM
Snipersking
Quote:
Originally Posted by jal1224 View Post
You may have a broken spring coil(s). That increases the spring rate. And when you jack the car, the spring ends can sometimes lock together temporarily, depending on the break.

Did they replace the shocks with OE parts? Are there any rattles or bangs going over bumps? Has the ride always been rough, or something that just happened?


I donít believe so the suspension has been inspected several times nothing is broken and no rattling or whatsoever, the Shocks are OE and this roughness started gradually.


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04-25-2019 07:44 AM
jal1224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipersking View Post
S320 1997 Conventional


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You may have a broken spring coil(s). That increases the spring rate. And when you jack the car, the spring ends can sometimes lock together temporarily, depending on the break.

Did they replace the shocks with OE parts? Are there any rattles or bangs going over bumps? Has the ride always been rough, or something that just happened?
04-24-2019 11:45 PM
syljua
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joflewbyu2 View Post
I believe you are wrong.
No, he stated that there are no weight difference between the M119 engines, and
I think thats close to true. The rods are actually the same length, so the increased sweep
volume I guess must come from wider throw on the crank, and perhaps taller deck or
bigger chamber in the head.
Also take into consideration the engine block material removed to make the wider bore (0.5litre of alu ).

More measurement here;
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...ment_specs.txt

The total empty weight of a S420 vs S500 is that the S420 is 10kg lighter (1990kg vs 2000kg);
https://mb-w140.de

br,
syljua
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