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Topic: replace 1991 300TE 4 matic kickdown solenoid Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-01-2019 02:55 AM
bigeast Not sure, good luck with the issue

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04-23-2019 10:35 AM
gozody Hello, I removed the kickdown solenoid and the body was not cracked. In fact it looked pretty new. However there was no aluminum crush washer under the bolt head on the outboard end. I added one there and one on the inboard end even though I don't think it is supposed to have one inboard. It seems to have stopped the leaking. I will drive it for a while to be sure as I now think the transmission pan gasket is also leaking some. Time will tell. Thanks to everyone for their help. G
04-21-2019 04:35 AM
gozody Great! . I'll PM you my VIN. Good luck with the hand and do the rehab as prescribed and you s/b fine.
04-20-2019 08:36 PM
Real1shepherd Sure....I had surgery on my right hand, so typing is a real PIA. I'm gonna be under my car in a week or so, so I'll snap a pic of the pressure transducer. The Germans have another name for it, but that's exactly what it is. I'll pull the # off my ABS module too, but yours could be different because I have the change yr '92.

I wouldn't change out the pressure transducer unless it's weeping oil. They're not cheap, but you don't want a used one either......they all seem to fail with significant mileage and when they start leaking hydraulic oil.

I can go on one of those clone EPC sites, so if you want, email me your VIN # and I'll come up with exact OE part numbers with any luck. Both those parts are plug & play.

04-20-2019 10:04 AM
gozody Got it on the pressure transducer but where do I start looking for it? Same old stupid me

I hope I am not part of the sour-faced crowd but can you provide any part numbers for the pressure transducer and ABS Module so I can try to price them and source them on the www? Those two seem like easy plug and play parts so I have no problem trying but don't want to be too upside down in the car. I already am but want to keep it reasonable.

I will check out the front stator teeth, ABS sensors and rear diff sensor.

There is no rush on my end. When its stops being fun I will move the car along in one fashion or another, no pun intended.

04-20-2019 09:00 AM
Real1shepherd It's a little bigger than a cigarette lighter in a normal car (not the tiny thing in ours) and has a wire that come out of it on the other end. It transfers mechanical energy (hydraulic pulses) into electrical signals. Over time, they start to leak where the wire is joined to the metal body. It's been my experience and others that when that happens, it needs to be replaced. There is no repair possible by a lay person. Its wire you can trace up to that round terminal that holds the other wires for the solenoids.

The ABS module is up there with the MAS module, behind the battery. The 4Matic brain constantly communicates with the ABS module. A forum member in Canada did about everything we could think of to get his 4Matic trouble light to turn off. In the end, it was a bad ABS module. He never had the ABS trouble light come on.

I'm trying to be careful here not to tell you to just throw parts at this. There's a real sour-force crowd here that will cling to parts upwards of 200,000 miles and endlessly accuse anyone of replacing old parts as 'just throwing parts at the problem.' So given that, I'm giving you ideas on various systems issues. I'm also recommending subbing in used parts whenever you can to test these systems.......especially since you can't retrieve any trouble codes at present.

As a maintenance thing, make sure your front axles' stator teeth are clean, along with the tips of the ABS sensors. Same with the back axle sensor. There are some good threads on testing
the Ohm reading range on the sensors as well.

04-20-2019 06:04 AM
gozody Good Morning
If you are asking about the 4matic trouble light it is on steady all the time, driving or not. There was a slight pulsing but that stopped when I fixed the ground wire at the tailgate hinge in order to get the the Third brake light to work. The third brake light now works fine and the lamp trouble light is no longer lit . The square "active" light in the middle of the dash has never come on.

What and where is the pressure transducer you are asking about?

Brake lights work fine so I have not messed with the switch. I did replace the headlight switch for cause but don't remember the symptoms.

No ABS trouble light so I have not done any thing to that system. I don't know if it actually works as I haven't felt it in the brake pedal or had the indicator light come on while hard braking. Brakes feel solid although nothing like current "modern" ones that throw you through the windshield.

The ground issue I have been chasing seems to involve the central locking, power antennae, and tailgate window washer pump circuits. I dug deep into the center console, under passenger carpet for locking air pump and couldn't find a bad ground. I know about the red fuse behind the instrument display (if i even have one) but as I can't see it without taking out the cluster I pass on that fix. I am afraid doing so will cause more issues than it would fix. The lights in the instrument cluster work as does the dimmer for these lights.

Thanks for you continued interest,
04-19-2019 08:49 PM
Real1shepherd How often and what's happening on the road when the light is OUT.....conversely, what's happening on the road when the light is ON? Has the pressure transducer ever been replaced.....does it leak at all? Brake light switch replaced? Have you ever gotten the 4matic brain to give you a trouble code yet?

If the trouble light is still on continuously, sub in a used ABS controller. Some forum member has one I'm sure for a loaner....just go by the MB # on yours. As a matter of fact, I still have one on the white parts car......but there were some changes between '91 and '92. Don't know if it makes any difference on the ABS controller. What is your part #?

04-18-2019 09:17 AM
gozody I replaced mine with a real MB part for $195. The old one was definitely shot as I weighed them and it was heavier by a good bit (full of fluid no doubt). No change in the lights with RPM change. Thanks for the input. G
04-18-2019 08:58 AM
Originally Posted by gozody View Post
Thanks. On the 4matic issue I am taking a break as seems to be bled but 4matic trouble light is on continuously and "active" light doesn't show when I drive aggressively on dirt road. There are lots of small electric issues I am working on like only one speaker works and lights in center console switches don't work (although they did). Also the central locking system died. I have the info to fix them but no luck so far. Just going to enjoy driving it for a while. Thanks Again, G
If the trouble light now comes on might want to consider that little nitrogen charged accumulator screwed into the hydraulic valve. Mine went bad and occasionally the trouble light would go telling symptom with mine was if the light came on while idling, increasing the RPM would make it go out.

It's not a cheap sphere....I got mine from a German vendor for about $180 and that was many yrs ago. The sphere acts like a pressure tank in a well system....equalizes pressure so the pressure transducer reads accurate changes in wheel slip through the hydraulics throughout the road RPM range of the engine.

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