|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-15-2019 07:35 AM|
, you are now where I was a few years ago with the project 2000 S500. I replaced the entire front suspension, AIRmatic shocks and all. The difference in the car's ride was remarkable. It went from feeling like an old-school Cadillac to a comfortable European luxury sedan.
I just got through overhauling the suspension on the fiance's Honda Civic as well, last weekend. Everything except the left lower control arm is new (the left LCA was in good shape, thus didn't need replacing). Everything else is brand new, including both axles (it's a front wheel drive car). I used good parts for longevity all the way around. She and I went for a few drives in it, and I drove it to work this morning. That car now handles like it did when it was new, and it's great.
You should've seen the suspension of the S600 TT when I first looked at it. Upper control arms are not inspection items here in Virginia, but CV boots are, and lower ball joints are. The left lower ball joint must've had maybe 3mm of play in it, and the right one was almost as bad. No grease anymore, and they squeaked like several mice singing in concert. That's downright dangerous. Almost every other boot on the control arms was ripped, too, and the tie rod joints weren't tight. So, I did the whole thing to be sure. If I see a suspension problem, I look at everything. You're right, if one part is going out, then the others will soon follow. In such a case, unless I either know or can tell that a part was recently replaced, I just do everything.
|04-15-2019 06:34 AM|
|wallyp||Replacing everything that might fail some day will be a very long and expensive job...|
|04-14-2019 08:20 PM|
|gpjlytham||Over 100 days of over 100 degrees in Scottsdale, but u own a Mercedes so u must be wealthy so you should have a winter home in AZ it's great here in winter😁 call me I will sell u a home.|
|04-14-2019 08:05 PM|
Originally Posted by gpjlytham View Post
|04-14-2019 07:24 PM|
|gpjlytham||Rusted Bolt? Live in Scottsdale home of "no rust" cars. The condition of the bodies on some cars in the scrap yards is amazing, the inside might be burned up due to the sun but the body could be great.|
|04-14-2019 07:04 PM|
|Barmaley||So far fixing old cars doesn't seem to be too difficult. The biggest challenge is to remove a rusted bolt - the rest is much easier than differential equations.|
|04-14-2019 06:22 PM|
|Triple cranks||I agree. A torn boot would need to be replaced regardless of the parts condition. I am very picky, maybe too picky lol! I have several toys. One of them is a 2016 Ram Laramie Longhorn diesel. My friends get a kick out of me waxing the inside of the tail pipe. The laugh will be on me one day when 911 will need to be called because my arm is stuck|
|04-14-2019 05:58 PM|
Originally Posted by Triple cranks View Post
And besides - I just dont want turned boots. My CV axles were fully functional but had small rips in the boots. I replaced both of them to later slowly changing boots and having two extra CV axles.
|04-14-2019 05:40 PM|
|Triple cranks||In Maryland, a torn boot will not fail the inspection as long as the joint is tight.|
|04-14-2019 05:20 PM|
This is my progress for today before rain started - LOL. I was able to remove all the parts but lower control arm as you may see on the picture. However, I an so glad that I am do it now that I could see much more (or which I don't want to see?) First I need to explain. My car was sitting for a year, then my state safety inspection expired, I decided to start fixing it, replaces CV Axles and very first trip was to a state inspection. I passed beside the tires. I had all 4 brand new tires which took all back space on the rear seats of my car and one in the trunk. The inspector refused to put new tires on the car and told me that as soon I will put tires and bring car back to him we will give me the sticker without additional inspection. After that said I would like to you take a look at the low control arm ball joint on the picture below. I am mad!!! How can you trust your inspectors?
Now since my airstruts are open and it would be easy to replace them I am thinking about putting new ones. My car is 12 years old and almost 110Kmi so I think I would need to replace them very soon anyway despite whey are working well so far! The problem is that then it would be logical to replace control arms, wheel bearings and so on which can become a project.
Do MB brake lines rust? What original lines are made of? If they don't I will take from a donor car since I am not confident on bending and flaring tubes. I remember that last time I did flaring of DTS brake lines I was not very confident on my results. (Not to mention that I found and ingenious way to pull the line on a different path as in was designed by Cadilac and they were working really great... until I brought the car to the dealer to replace transmission and the dealer nicely asked me: who was the idiot to change your brake lines as it is? We can not remove transmission without removing the brakes and I ended up replacing the brakes again!)
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