|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-15-2019 06:43 PM|
400 miles today 50/50 mix of driving around Houston plus a long 75 mph road trip. 21.8 mpg average on super unleaded. Mid grade doesn't usually improve or reduce that figure.
My 2012 350 gasoline model has done nearly 200k miles now and apart from a timing chain that's a bit rattly, especially on starting, no engine or transmission issues at all.
|03-11-2019 05:35 PM|
|03-10-2019 04:34 PM|
Re: Your buddies input on the R's gas-mileage. From your description Im guessing he was driving a r500 (since it's quite rare for any year of r350 to have four corner airmatic). The 3.5l is a much more efficient engine. I average slightly over 20 mpg on my '12 if I lightfoot it.
But if your looking at a 3.5l and it's older than a '12 (I think the issue was on pre '09) check VIN and make sure the car is either not effected by the balance shaft issue or using a car fax / dealer warranty report make sure it has been warrantied.
|03-10-2019 03:31 PM|
He also mentioned that it had terrible gas-milage (~12mpg city). I think this was because it was a trade-in and the previous owner probably hadn't serviced it for a while prior to the trade-in.
|03-10-2019 03:06 PM|
Originally Posted by gforaker View Post
The 2010 car I see for sale is gas, with 100K Km (60Kmi) and the asking price is C$10,000 (~US$7000). That's what makes it look suspicious. Yes, Carfax exists in Canada. I will definitely use it.
|03-09-2019 11:34 PM|
I have two W251's - a 2007 and a 2012. I've got three kids and didn't want another Suburban. Additionally, my wife and I looked at the GL and determined that wasn't as easy to maneuver, park, and that the GL didn't get the mpg of the R.
The 2007 we've had since 2014 and the 2012 I bought in 2017. I've put 80kmi on the 2007 and 30kmi on the 2012. Here's the issues I've had in that time:
2007 R350 Gas Starting Mi 72k, Current Mi 156k
2015 - Replaced a single rear air shock - looked as if the other had already been replaced - no charge repair by seller
2016 - Intake manifold replacement due to idler door linkage breaking - dealer quoted $4850 for repair, local specialist shop did the job for $750 with the exact same parts.
2017 - Brakes - shoes and rotors all the way around, brake flush, LOF - local specialty shop $675
2019 - Broken oil filter housing leak caused misfire only at cold start, replaced tensioner, associated timing components, plugs and coils, some internal parts, dealer wanted $6100 to repair paid $1550 to local specialty shop
2012 R350 Gas Starting Mi 44k, Current Mi 74k
2017 - Weird vibration in rear wheel - Dealer suggested we replace rear axle and diff, forgot the quote amount, local shop fixed the problem by moving the wheels around and rebalancing the tires, no charge
2018 - LOF - specialty shop - $65
2018 - Powered trunk latch assembly failure - $412 did the repairs myself
2019 - Parking Sensors don't function properly - no fix yet
Here's the deal though, with kids, if you're going to buy one of these cars, be sure and buy the version with the captains chairs in the second row - the three-part bench seat is difficult with two baby seats in the second row because you cannot access the third row as the seats won't move forward to allow access with the child seats buckled in place. The rear seat is accessed by opening the hatch back and having your kid crawl in from that direction. It's not a good solution. So if you want to use the third row, get yourself the version without quasi three way bench.
Additionally, the doors are so huge on this car, don't think you can open them in the garage with another car next to you with any sort of ease. I have uploaded a photo which shows this problem. We typically have to back out a car to easily strap two kids in the second row AND insert a kid into the third row.
To be honest, I'm looking to purchase a Mercedes van I haven't decided which version - my wife prefers the $145k AWD Mercedes Van - which isn't too attractive an idea to me.
I do love the R class however, and for some reason I feel like my 2012 is quite a different feeling car than the 2007. They just feel quite a bit different. The 2012 feels lighter and handles a bit better. The interior doesn't feel as quality as the 2007. The 2007 is actually quieter in regards to road noise, the doors seem heavier than the 2012.
These are simply my personal observations, I have no scientific facts backing my statements.
|03-09-2019 07:12 AM|
I don't know the price difference in Canada for gas vs. diesel, but in the US, diesel is much more and wipes out the advantage of fuel mileage. Also, diesel engines now seem to require more service and repairs than gas. I'd choose gas. The gas engine had most of the earlier problems worked out by the 2009 model year. 2010 and newer are the safest and will have a more modern Command system. I wouldn't worry about 100k km. as mine now has 150k miles and still runs like new. Pay for any used car to have a full check up by an experienced German car mechanic. Either a different dealer or a good independent. Does CARFAX exist in Canada?
I don't drive much really heavy city traffic with lots of stop and go, but get almost 20mpg in mixed town and highway driving and 22 to 24 mpg on a long trip with fairly fast and sometimes aggressive driving.
|03-08-2019 05:04 PM|
I too am looking for an R-Class. I see a few on sale here in the Vancouver area. There is a variety of engines. I see gas, bluetec, and blueefficiency. I am confident with DIY on gas, but have no experience at all with diesel. Any advice of eiather diesel options are ok? The cars available for sale are 2006, 2007, 2010 and even newer. Prices vary with Kms, and model year, but I see a 2010 with 100K Km and below the CA$10,000. Is this considered reasonable, or it means something is wrong?
Also, for the 6 passenger models, is it easy to upgrade the middle row seats to fit 3 people
Finally, what's the gas-miage on these? My W211 makes 15L/100Km (~16miles per gallon) in the city because it is 4-Matic and I hate this consumption. Is the R-Class of the same rate?
|03-02-2019 05:33 AM|
|IWantedaJag||Look out for dodgy bumper repairs especially on the sides where bumper meets fender (wing in English English). Run over one of those concrete sleepers in a car park, back up, drag the bumper off. The sides are only held by push clips that latch into holes in the sides of the bumper and they break really easily. Effin expensive to replace the front bumper.|
|02-27-2019 07:49 PM|
I had an air shock fail in the rear of my '12 R right after I got it last year.
Arnott had a pretty good deal on them (under $200 ea.) with lifetime warranty (if you buy it from them) so I changed both along with the Airmatic compressor filter. Labor should be about an hour or so per side. Rumor has it the OE Airmatic shock units are good for an average of 60k-80k miles. So if you can get a service history and don't see they've already been done, the car is on borrowed time.
The only other issues I've had is with the parktronic sensors. (I ended up using the Bosch sensors off ebay as everyone said to avoid the cheap Chinese imports...surprise, surprise) and with the little plastic Pano roof control (got that for $55 off ebay too). Quite a rip for a little piece of plastic but the alternative was the entire front ceiling console assembly.
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