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Topic: 2014 ML350 4Matic Rear Brakes/Rotors Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-07-2019 12:38 PM
JimSmith
Quote:
Originally Posted by Etienne Lau View Post
Here is my take on this "binding" issue. When you tighten up the slide bolts, you are actually drawing the caliper towards the head of the bolt and therefore compressing any free play needed by the caliper on the slide pin. The tighter the bolt the closer the caliper is drawn towards the caliper piston. In essence you are are pressing on the brake pedal and pulling the brake pads together. The pads/caliper is no longer in a "floating" position. It is critical to find out exactly the proper torque needed for this bolt and to make sure you tighten to the correct amount.

You may want to replace the rubber bellows covering the slide pins as they may deteriorate over time. I recently bought a kit from rockauto.com that included new pad clips, new rubber bellows. As I was tightening up the slide bolt, I also noticed the bellows begin to compress and therefore taking up free play the caliper had on the slide pin.
Thanks for the feedback. So far so good. No brake issues since I "snugged" the pins instead of tightened them beyond "snug." Driven around 10,000 miles as well. Just seems like an odd thing. Next time around I will replace the pins and bellows.


Jim
08-06-2019 08:00 PM
Etienne Lau
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
If you get an answer please share it. I am not having the problem anymore now that I "snugged" fasteners up, but I am unable to come up with a reason why the pins bind when they are tightened.

Jim
Here is my take on this "binding" issue. When you tighten up the slide bolts, you are actually drawing the caliper towards the head of the bolt and therefore compressing any free play needed by the caliper on the slide pin. The tighter the bolt the closer the caliper is drawn towards the caliper piston. In essence you are are pressing on the brake pedal and pulling the brake pads together. The pads/caliper is no longer in a "floating" position. It is critical to find out exactly the proper torque needed for this bolt and to make sure you tighten to the correct amount.

You may want to replace the rubber bellows covering the slide pins as they may deteriorate over time. I recently bought a kit from rockauto.com that included new pad clips, new rubber bellows. As I was tightening up the slide bolt, I also noticed the bellows begin to compress and therefore taking up free play the caliper had on the slide pin.
08-06-2019 02:27 PM
Guanyu Chu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Etienne Lau View Post
I re-read your original post and you did mention greasing things. My bad. The only thing I can think of bug is that you have stuck piston in both left and right caliper? I have the right rear caliper on order should be arriving tomorrow. I am replacing the right rear caliper because when I originally changed the pads I could see a hole in the boot around the piston, and also the boot had popped out of the caliper itself. I was able to press the piston back on. The other reason for changing the right rear caliper is that the right rear pads were 3-4mm thick while the left rear pads were at the 2mm mark. So again suspecting the right said just not working as well.
you can jack up the car and turn the wheel to see if it can turn freely after disengaged the emergency brake. i was also told that you could try to drive around the neighborhood without using your brake safely to see if your rotor is hot. if it's not, then you don't have a stick caliper.
08-06-2019 02:22 PM
Guanyu Chu i don't have one. i been thinking to get one for a while. i basically touch rim by hand to see how warm it is. initially, i thought it was too hot (i guess i never touched it before to have a fair comparison). but after i feel the rim on my subaru and lexus, i guess the temp is normal, especially i had it checked with a mechanic as well dealership. waste of time and money.

i will report back once i check the temp with a temperature gun
08-06-2019 02:17 PM
Etienne Lau
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guanyu Chu View Post
I did that too and had to switched them out. initially i used pagit pads and they are dusty. i didn't know if they were dragging or something. later i switched to OEM pads and they have less dusts. i think they are just hot in general. i might just think too much.
I re-read your original post and you did mention greasing things. My bad. The only thing I can think of bug is that you have stuck piston in both left and right caliper? I have the right rear caliper on order should be arriving tomorrow. I am replacing the right rear caliper because when I originally changed the pads I could see a hole in the boot around the piston, and also the boot had popped out of the caliper itself. I was able to press the piston back on. The other reason for changing the right rear caliper is that the right rear pads were 3-4mm thick while the left rear pads were at the 2mm mark. So again suspecting the right said just not working as well.
08-06-2019 02:13 PM
Etienne Lau
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guanyu Chu View Post
I did that too and had to switched them out. initially i used pagit pads and they are dusty. i didn't know if they were dragging or something. later i switched to OEM pads and they have less dusts. i think they are just hot in general. i might just think too much.
I am assuming you greased the slide pins as well? I used Akebono Pads. Can you actually smell the pads burning? Do you have an IR Temperature probe? When the pads were burning I took an IR reading of the left side and got 120-150C vs the right side 50-70C. Now that I switched the pads around the left side is matching the right side at 50-70C.
08-06-2019 02:05 PM
Guanyu Chu I did that too and had to switched them out. initially i used pagit pads and they are dusty. i didn't know if they were dragging or something. later i switched to OEM pads and they have less dusts. i think they are just hot in general. i might just think too much.
08-06-2019 01:56 PM
Etienne Lau I had similar issues the other week with my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec. But only on the left side and not the right side. Turns out my issue with the burning smell from the pads was caused by installing the inside pads on the outside and the outside pads on the inside. The inside pads are slightly taller to accommodate the pad sensor. It was this taller portion of the pad that was pressing on the rotor and causing the burning of the pad.
05-26-2019 08:39 AM
JimSmith If you get an answer please share it. I am not having the problem anymore now that I "snugged" fasteners up, but I am unable to come up with a reason why the pins bind when they are tightened.

Jim
05-25-2019 11:03 PM
Guanyu Chu
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
I just replaced my rear pads because the wear indicator lamp came on after about 30,000 miles since I did my last brake job. Car is a 2015 ML250. Checked fronts first and they were fine. Checked rears and the outside pads were worn down to about 1/16" of material was left. Bought new pads and did a little research. Seems floating calipers like these can have problems with the guide pins freezing up. On other makes with nearly identical mechanical parts it is apparently common to either replace them or to pull them out and clean them, as well as the bore they ride in. So, I pulled them, cleaned the pins of grease and inspected them. Nothing of note, no rust, no gouges, etc. So I regressed them and put them back in the bore, reassembled the brakes with new pads.

Took the car out for a drive and the rear brakes were much hotter than the fronts. So I took the brakes apart again, and removed the pads, cleaned the bearing surfaces on the bracket that holds the pads where the pin and the 13mm bolt bear, pushed the piston back in, and had about a mm of play after the caliper was installed. I could push the caliper one way and then the other and watch it recenter itself with the 13mm bolts not heavily tightened - snug, but not as tight as I could get it. So then I tightened the 13mm bolts hard and the caliper was no longer able to "float."

So I loosened the 13mm bolts and snugged them up so I still had a "floating" caliper and took the car out for a test drive. This time they were fine - no hotter than the fronts, perhaps even cooler. I will buy some new pins, and the rubber bellows that fits over the pin protruding from the caliper and see if they are similarly sensitive to being tightened. I do not recall this problem on any other cars with floating calipers, and don't have the problem at the front.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Thanks,

Jim
I'm having the same issue. hot rear brakes after the pads and rotors replacement. done everything i can such as greasing this or that. i'm thinking to take it to a mechanic.
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