|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-08-2019 06:15 PM|
After reading that, I called my dealer and the car will go in on Thursday. New brakes will be added as well...they're really bad now, time to change. Engine mounts will be checked.
|07-08-2019 02:35 PM|
|DEVOURS||Thanks Paulo...that was a lot of "used" parts that had to go..|
|07-08-2019 12:54 PM|
Originally Posted by Mike Ti View Post
Originally Posted by DEVOURS View Post
Release bearing looked shot too and turned roughly. Tensioner and idler bearings and alt bearings were rough also.
Front mounts were done, rear ones still good.
|07-06-2019 06:19 AM|
Enjoy the drive..!
...but how bad were the old clutch components anyway ?
|07-05-2019 07:32 PM|
About the B 200 exhaust recall, it's not actually ready yet, is it? I am one of the affected cars but have not received a follow up letter stating the parts are available.
|07-05-2019 04:14 PM|
So after fixing the steering wheel position to as close as possible to where it should be the computer showed no Faults with the ESP or steering angle sensor. Took it for an alignment no issues.
Not so lucky with the air conditioning system. Even though I tried to be careful disconnecting the condenser it looks like it wasn't making a seal at the connection to the line or to the receiver drier. AC shop actually said my aftermarket receiver drier was the issue because of the size of the fittings. I have to take everything with a grain of salt since I don't know for sure but just be careful ever working on the system and disconnecting lines. Obviously make sure that the system is empty before disconnecting. So the shop fix whatever leaks it had and tested the system Under Pressure then vacuumed then recharged it so the AC is good now. Cost me way too much than I'm willing to admit here. I still save money compared to having a shop do everything but not as much as I was hoping to and not worth it probably considering the work I put in. Maybe some lessons learned for others here.
Car drives and feels great, though.
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|06-25-2019 06:26 AM|
Nice to see that this "project" is so close to completion...You must be very happy...(finally..)
Amazing bit of work !!
|06-25-2019 04:20 AM|
Pics. (first one is before I topped up coolant btw)
The center portion of the steering wheel is held on by two torx screws on each side. Don't look for round openings at the back of the steering wheel - they are behind small, narrow slots. A little misleading. Then the steering wheel bolt is a hex (forgot size). It's hard to turn, I'm guessing 80 ft-lb...just a guess. It has a dab of blue loctite (it looks like) on it.
|06-25-2019 04:13 AM|
A quick update...
Car is on its wheels and on the road again! Started right up on the first try. Didn't let it run too long the first few times (drivebelt not on = no water pump). Once the drivebelt was on, let it warm up and had to top up the coolant a couple times. Have taken it for a few progressively longer drives (a few minutes long), just to confirm everything is fine. At the alignment shop now. Gonna hopefully drive it for a couple weeks to make sure all is ok, then recharge the AC.
Clutch is good, no noise. No alternator/tensioner/idler noises. So far, so good!
Oh yeah, almost forgot. I had pulled out the steering shaft too far and messed up the alignment with the top half of the shaft (they're splined). So last evening I had to pull the airbag and steering wheel off and center it (with the wheels straight) and align the steering angle sensor. This is not a fun job (working with the airbag and the steering wheel bolt is SO tight!).
|06-20-2019 10:43 AM|
Old school...I just thought that it would be better to make sure that the bleed was complete and all fluid was changed out including whatever the pedal would move through the system....and then out at the bleeder.
Naturally all works perfectly well. The trick is to make sure that rear of the fluid tank "and the separate fluid compartments" DO NOT run low as you perform the bleed..
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