|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-27-2016 10:03 PM|
Breaking an engine in is absolutely required on a rebuild or a new engine. Mercedes has specific break in instructions, listed in the owner's manual. Breaking in is not obsolete.
However, the use of a "break in" oil is not required and many high performance cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
The idea that a synthetic will prevent break in is an old wive's tale.
|08-26-2016 06:41 AM|
"Breaking in" is probably an obsolete concept. Many, many new cars now have a factory fill of fully synthetic oil. No "break-in period" at all.
I would change the oil pretty quickly - just think of it as a "flush-fill" instead of a "break in-fill".
Congratulation, BTW. You certainly will never be afraid to tackle virtually any problem on a vehicle again!
|08-25-2016 09:52 AM|
Originally Posted by Tusabes1 View Post
Was not 100% sure if I should go with a break in period or not figure rather be safe then sorry. Like I say about another 100 kilometres and I will put the 0W40 full synthetic in. I have read on so many different places that full synthetic is not great for rebuilt engine to run on at first. Not saying this is rebuilt but the heads have been done, valves dressed and I want the lifters and cam to break in properly
|08-25-2016 03:57 AM|
|tusabes||Fantastic !! Sounds like all went well|
|08-24-2016 08:59 PM|
120 Kilometres on it after engine was installed
So repaired the engine oil leak it was leaking from the bolt in the oil cooler where the oil cooler lines connect.
All the heat shield are installed under the car, exhaust bolt installed and all bolts under the car have been checked.
So today I put roughly another 60 kilometres on it. I have it out on the highway for the majority of them. Running the car form 80KPH to about 125KHP on average. I have not put my foot into the car and kept it mostly under 2500RPM while not keeping a constant RPM. I did take it up to 140KHP once and 130KHP about 3 times. I also did take the RPM to just over 3000RPM.
I am pretty sure the engine does have the low KM(3000) as it was stated, so I really do not want to punch it for a bit. Figure since the engine has been sitting for an unknown amount of time, lifters and cam need to work into each other I will play it save and take it easy on it for about 1000 kilometres or so.
I have pulled codes none, engine still idles smooth, seems to be strong, no smoke, runs with the needle just at the top of the 80ºC traffic or not, still sounds quiet and has not gone through any coolant.
So I still have conventional 5w30 in it, once it get to about 200-250 kilometres on it I will drain it remove the filter and put the Mobile 0W40 full synthetic back in.
I have a couple hoses/lines to install back to 100% and the bottom engine covers need to go back on. Waiting on these till I know that there is 100% no more leaks from the transmission coolant line or engine.
|08-18-2016 04:43 PM|
Anyone see an oil leak here?
So I think I have found the oil leak. It is from the pressure side of the oil system.
I checked the transmission fluid and I was almost bang on with mt guess at 25ºC mark.
This morning I placed all the hose, wires up top that needed to be finished off, so with the transmission level close enough to road test and bring up to 80ºC figured it is time for a test drive.
The drive went rather well about 20KM total. For the first bit of the drive I drove it like I was driving Ms Daisy. Smooth steady acceleration and not going over 50KPH. Then I drove it like a normal person would do in a city drive with little traffic and finally I used the paddle shift and kept it back a bit not letting it get into fourth.
The temperature gauge needle was at the top of the 0 at the 80º mark on the gauge. Stayed there most of the time.
The engine sounds quiet, runs smooth and seems to want to go from my short little test drive. The car idled smooth at the stop lights.
I even used the AC on the last leg of the test drive. Once I get this oil leak solved I will get it up to faster speeds and be a little more aggressive on the throttle.
So it is leaking a decent amount. There was oil pooled up where the head bolts to the timing cover, down the front of the water pump and along the bottom of the pan. On the way back to my place the warning message came up low one litre of oil refill at service station. This is why I am sure it is on the pressure side. So about one litre of oil from driving around my parking lot Sunday, today's test drive and all the start/running trying to get the ABC working.
The picture of the oil cooler housing is my old one from my engine.
|08-18-2016 08:00 AM|
Originally Posted by pinkster View Post
This was an experience alright. Just hope it was all worth it in the long run. I need to get the car up and running pretty quick as my plates expire and I need it emission tested. With the battery not connected it needs to be driven so it will pass.
|08-18-2016 05:42 AM|
Well Scott you are going to be the go to man for engine questions for awhile, you'll know these engines quite well by the time you have it all sorted out.
Enjoy the car for as long as you can when you get it finished, you will have earned it.
|08-17-2016 02:44 PM|
The oil leak is difficult to find. I took a quick look today and does not seem to be come from where I thought. I did notice that I will be draining the coolant system as the bracket for the idler pulley's bracket under the oil filter housing actually holds back coolant. I never removed the bracket completely but it the bolts were removed and I am pretty sure that it loosing up from the cover. This bracket needs sealant which I did not do.
You can see the outlet next to the thermostat housing where the idler pulley bracket covers. This is where I need to seal.
The bottom of the oil cooler line housing seems to have two Allen wrench bolts at the side and bottom, the bottom one seems wet but not 100%(might be the source of my leak)/ I am pretty sure that it is from a pressure galley.
On the ABC front the car seemed to stay at the height I parked it last night. Will set up one of my grip stands with a tennis ball touching the body to see if it does drop and how much.
If the car seems find down the road I would like to run all billet aluminum pulleys like in the picture but not the extra idler pulley. Just replace all the factory with the billet ones.
|08-17-2016 07:31 AM|
Originally Posted by pinkster View Post
It does seem to run nice one hurtle at a time
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