|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-07-2016 10:23 AM|
I was just wondering if your faulty cps ever caused your car to run rough,smoke and sputter as other symptoms?
|12-03-2015 08:21 AM|
|hellah fresh||Yeah we replaced the CPS and its still the same. The car still has a minor miss and now he finally took it our for a test drive and after about 10mins the car would cut out. He can start it back up so we are kinda trying to see if it was maybe something else. He is leaning towards the Idle Control Valve sensor?|
|11-22-2015 08:16 AM|
Originally Posted by GreenT View Post
|11-18-2015 09:41 AM|
Can you give us the source?
|11-18-2015 09:39 AM|
|11-14-2015 02:06 AM|
yes if the service parts are old, you might notice more smoothness if you replace them. I recently put a new set of genuine MB wires, cap and plugs on one of my 420's and the difference was worth it.
|11-13-2015 10:58 PM|
I enjoyed to participate in the troubleshooting and I would like to join liviu165 in thanking you for your feedback!
Happy motoring to your daughter!
|11-13-2015 06:44 PM|
|11-13-2015 03:47 PM|
I want to thank everyone for their input and help. It turned out to be the crank position sensor. It was intermittent and I was able to catch it a couple times. Don't know if it was the sensor itself or the wire. I replaced it with a new one I bought for $70! Everything is running fine, even during normal temp.
I also did the voltage test and everything seems to be OK.
I still feel replacing cap, rotor, wires and plugs was a necessity. Still the original parts.
Thanks once again.
|11-09-2015 04:52 AM|
Since the TD-signal (voltage between terminal 1 & 2 at diagnostic socket) is so weak after the engine cooled down, I suggest to pull the CPS plug from the EZL and check the CPS’s resistance between both contacts at the coaxial plug (like shown in the video). It should always be between 680 and 1200 ohms (both cold and hot)!
Btw – I like the methodical approach of trouble shooting in this video.
Only one thing l didn’t like: the cable coming which connects the coil with the distributor should not be used for a spark test! As I mentioned in post 32, that can fry the EZL.
And: when he tested the voltage between both coil terminals 1 & 15 (up from 22:00 in the video), he cranked the engine. That's not really necessary – the key in “ignition on” would be enough. (The voltage should be zero then)
Liviu165’s suggestion to check for proper ground connection is absolutely eligible!
I did mention the coil’s connection to ground in post 29. But liviu165 is right – also the engine’s connection to ground via it’s ground strap should be checked. It is possible that the spark plugs depending on the engines heat don’t have connectivity to ground via that strap.
Also the EZL’s connection to ground should be checked (but I think that's probably okay).
Other things that should be checked, when the engine does not start (with the key switched to “ignition on”):
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