Aftermarket Radio Installation HELP!!! - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Aftermarket Radio Installation HELP!!!

Good morning Mercedes family

I need help identifying a couple of wires for my install.
I'm installing a Pioneer system.
I'm removing all factory setup...not using the CAN Bus as I'm running my speakers thru a Kenwood 4-channel amp and an Alpine 1-channel amp for my sub.
I already removed the rear sub as I will not be utilizing that anymore.
I found my speaker leads in the trunk from factory amp.
I already have...
Battery Lead 12+
Ground
Ignition switch (Accessory...tapped from the cigarette lighter)
Illumination (tapped from the cigarette lighter)
Parking Brake signal (grounded with the factory radio ground)
Remote - I will run from the Pioneer HU to the trunk unless there's a wire already in the trunk I can use
Speed Signal - HELP NEEDED
Steering Wheel Control - HELP NEEDED...I have a PAC SWI-RC that I'm going to connect. I didn't get the SWI-CAN II as I'll not be using any of the CAN connections

Please guide me thru how I to find the Speed Signal wire and also the steering wheel control leads

Any help is truly appreciated.

I have searched for days trying to find something...NOTHING!

PLEASE HELP!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 04:35 PM
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Rudeney Keyhole and and I have been going back and forth on this since I started my install in January. Still at it, mostly due to 'er indoors finding other things for me to do.

Main power: run a feed via a fuse off the battery. You can do what I did and drill a hole through the bulkhead behind the battery or do the smart thing and feed it through under the battery support where the other big red wires are.

Ground: there's probably a handy stud right behind the radio hole you can use.

Switched +12V: take it off the lighter socket. Use a multimeter to find the right wire. Mercedes ground wires are solid brown BTW.

Illumination: as above.

Speedo pulse: there isn't one.

CANBUS positive: Red / brown wire going into the old radio's connector block.

CANBUS negative: as above but solid brown.

Parking brake: just conect this to ground.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 04:37 PM
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PS please fill put your profile so we all know which model you have. It helps...
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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thank you so much for the response.

I was able to find main power from the old radio's harness
Switched and illumination from lighter socket
Ground...done
Parking brake...grounded

Is there a way to get the speed signal?

What about the steering wheel control for my PAC-RC adapter?

You mentioned CANBUS positive and CANBUS negative...what will I use those for?

Thank you.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 06:43 AM
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There really isn't a way of getting a speed signal unless you want to try running a wire all the way to an ABS sensor on the wheel, and even then it's not certain the pulse will be of the right voltage or frequency for what I expect you want it for - GPS.

The CANBUS signals work with the steering wheel controls and Rudeney also tells me that should perform a lot of the issues like vehicle speed, etc. although this will depend on your steering wheel control interface.

I bought a Metra Axxess SWC-1 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) steering wheel control, but I'm still fitting my radio, as and when the wife isn't looking and / or finding "more important" honey-dos for me mostly, so I don't know for certain if it works fully yet.

One other tip - if you're fitting a reversing / back-up camera, get a video wire with an extra feed in it like this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You hook up the video camera power feed +ve to a reversing light bulb feed to power the camera and also to the red trigger wire in that lead at the tail end. At the front end you hook that red wire to the trigger wire on your head unit. Then, when you select reverse, the camera powers up, the trigger wire goes hot, and it's all taken care of. Works perfectly on my 08 CLK.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 06:58 AM
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PS with an after-market power amp, I would find a good sturdy 8, 6 or 4-gauge wire to hook into, not the old radio's power circuit. The new power amp will draw a lot more current than the old head unit, which has no power amplifiers of its own, relying instead on the separate power amplifiers linked by the fiber optics, probably in the trunk. Scout around there and you should be able to find a terminal with a sturdy-looking red wire or two (or three) going into / coming out of it. You can use an eye terminal and screw it down onto the downstream side of the fuse that'll probably be there so your amp is protected by that fuse. You can ground the power amp and anything else directly to the chassis using any of the profusion of ground lugs you'll find around the car. Grounding to the chassis directly is safer / better than going through a thin ground wire as you won't overload such a wire.
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