Date registered: Oct 2013
Vehicle: 2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Location: Lansing Michigan
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
This can be completed with a basic set of tools, and A LOT of patience.
Pay close attention to all the instructions I'm about to type, because I've done this job 6 times, 4 times on OM648's, and 2 times on OM642's.
Scan the ECU to check for any injector codes. If you can get this car cheaply and do this procedure correctly, this will be a nice deal.
-Flat head screw driver
-4-5 cans of carb/choke cleaner OR a couple quarts of lacquor thinner.
-Seafoam Deep Creep penetrant.
-Torx socket to fit the injector stretch bolt, can't remember the size. Someone chime in if you remember.
-one of those flexible grabber things with the fingers on the end, use that to grab paper towels, makes cleaning the injector bore very easy.
-an OM648 injector seat reaming kit, you can get them cheap on eBay.
-a couple rolls of shop towels
-needle nose pliers.
-a solid week of working on the car 2-3 hours a night.
You're going to want to carefully chip away all of the carbon buildup around the Injectors with a hammer and screwdriver, CAREFULLY. Think of it as digging around a fossil. Use a vacuum to pick up the chips. The 'carbon' is actually solidified exhaust gasses that escape through the worn injector seal, and the foam insulation that used to sit on top of the injectors. This does not have to be done on a hot engine UNTIL you start using carb clean.
Once you've chipped and scraped away as much carbon as possible, you're going to flood each injector bore with carb clean AFTER you've taken the car for a half an hour drive to get it to operating temp.
Once the carb clean hits the carbon, you will notice the carbon bubbling up. Keep the carb clean full in that area for about 5 minutes, and scrape as much of that goo out as possible with a screw driver/dental pick and shop towels.
Once you've hit hard carbon again, go take the car for another drive to get it hot again, spray with more carb clean, and repeat the process again. Keep doing this until you've removed as much carbon around the injector as humanly possible.
The next step is to flood the injector bore with a penetrant, I highly recommend Seafoam Deep Creep, it's one of the best penetrant's on the market and really eats through carbon.
Flood the injector bore with deep creep, and drive the car around for a few days. Keep the deep creep flooded in order to make sure the carbon never re-solidifies.
On the day you're ready to remove the injectors, make sure the engine is nice and hot.
The injector hold down clamps is the best tool to pull the injectors out besides a slide hammer. You're to back out all of the injectors bolts carefully, an the stick a punch or Phillips screwdriver into the hold down clamps hole where the bolt you just pulled out went, and then pry towards the front of the engine, opposite of the injector in order to create leverage to pull the injector UP.
That should remove all the injectors, if not, purchase a slide hammer kit to pull them that way. (I've never had to use a slide hammer, they've always come out with the above instructions.)
Clean the area in and around the injector bore, and then ream the injector seat in the head until it's flat, use a NEW seal washer and stretch bolt to reinstall the injector, and the job is done.