Just bought a 2005 cdi with black death... - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Newbie
 
Date registered: Feb 2019
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Just bought a 2005 cdi with black death...

Yesterday I picked up a 2005 E320 CDI with 217,000 miles, and drove it 800 miles back home. The dealer said he replaced the injector seals and cleaned up the black death 2 years/20,000 miles ago. He has the tools for the job, and seems to know how to deal with black death, but I still have my doubts. The plastic engine cover was missing 5/6 bolts, and the only bolt was completely stripped! I eventually just tore the plastic off (still very usable) and this is what I saw! Is it possible that he really did replace the seals 2 years ago?

Anyways, any tips for cleaning up black death would be greatly appreciated!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	3EC2B0A8-C1EB-4B11-9B3D-9A612FE1317C_1550528245714.jpg
Views:	189
Size:	52.8 KB
ID:	2490474  
Parkerbenz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 03:35 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Kajtek1's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 35,483
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Quoted: 2003 Post(s)
Welcome to the forum.
This is your post #1 here, yet you took job that even advanced DIY would hesitate to take?
So what are your qualifications?
Black death doesn't have to be hard job, but require lot of patience and persistence.
Read all the topicks on it and make your choices.
For gunk removal last time I heard painter's goo removal was good, but several others work too.
Crucial on the job is pulling the affected injector on hot engine.
Meaning when you have more than 1, you might do it 1 at the time, getting the engine hot between.
Soaking injector hole with motor oil for several days is what MB advise.
Won't comment on "what selling dealer said"
chewtoy likes this.
Kajtek1 is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 07:52 AM
ot1
BenzWorld Veteran
 
Date registered: Apr 2007
Vehicle: 2006 E320 CDI
Location: Midwest USA
Posts: 610
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
What is the black death material ? Looks like melted engine cover or tar somehow.
ot1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 08:09 AM
BenzWorld Member
 
chewtoy's Avatar
 
Date registered: May 2014
Vehicle: 2007 C230
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
chewtoy is online now  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 08:40 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Kajtek1's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 35,483
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Quoted: 2003 Post(s)
The guy on video chewtoy posted is extremist, but if you are car enthusiast, you have to admire how he buys $1500 Mercedes and fixs it good for less than $500 material cost.
This is what I (on less extreme level) do, what allows me driving good cars for pennies.
But this is not for everybody.
chewtoy likes this.
Kajtek1 is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 08:46 AM
BenzWorld Member
 
chewtoy's Avatar
 
Date registered: May 2014
Vehicle: 2007 C230
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
The guy on video chewtoy posted is extremist, but if you are car enthusiast, you have to admire how he buys $1500 Mercedes and fixs it good for less than $500 material cost.
This is what I (on less extreme level) do, what allows me driving good cars for pennies.
But this is not for everybody.
I agree, just showing the amount of work needed to resolve this problem. He's a experienced MBZ tech and this work still was tough - and the penalties for failure are high!

Were this my car, I'd be looking for a quality shop to take this job on.
chewtoy is online now  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 08:48 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Kajtek1's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 35,483
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Quoted: 2003 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewtoy View Post

Were this my car, I'd be looking for a quality shop to take this job on.
This is what seller of the car on video did.
It was mentioned on video without giving $$$ number, but I can easily imagine north of $5000
Kajtek1 is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 05:06 PM
BenzWorld Senior Member
 
E50Canuck's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jun 2013
Vehicle: 1998 E300TD
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 428
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Garage
No way that is only 2 years...
E50Canuck is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 08:29 AM
BenzWorld Extremist
 
Rossafuss's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2013
Vehicle: 2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Location: Lansing Michigan
Posts: 875
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
This can be completed with a basic set of tools, and A LOT of patience.
Pay close attention to all the instructions I'm about to type, because I've done this job 6 times, 4 times on OM648's, and 2 times on OM642's.

Scan the ECU to check for any injector codes. If you can get this car cheaply and do this procedure correctly, this will be a nice deal.

Tools:
-Flat head screw driver
-Hammer
-4-5 cans of carb/choke cleaner OR a couple quarts of lacquor thinner.
-Seafoam Deep Creep penetrant.
-Torx socket to fit the injector stretch bolt, can't remember the size. Someone chime in if you remember.
-one of those flexible grabber things with the fingers on the end, use that to grab paper towels, makes cleaning the injector bore very easy.
-an OM648 injector seat reaming kit, you can get them cheap on eBay.
-a couple rolls of shop towels
-needle nose pliers.
-a solid week of working on the car 2-3 hours a night.

You're going to want to carefully chip away all of the carbon buildup around the Injectors with a hammer and screwdriver, CAREFULLY. Think of it as digging around a fossil. Use a vacuum to pick up the chips. The 'carbon' is actually solidified exhaust gasses that escape through the worn injector seal, and the foam insulation that used to sit on top of the injectors. This does not have to be done on a hot engine UNTIL you start using carb clean.

Once you've chipped and scraped away as much carbon as possible, you're going to flood each injector bore with carb clean AFTER you've taken the car for a half an hour drive to get it to operating temp.

Once the carb clean hits the carbon, you will notice the carbon bubbling up. Keep the carb clean full in that area for about 5 minutes, and scrape as much of that goo out as possible with a screw driver/dental pick and shop towels.

Once you've hit hard carbon again, go take the car for another drive to get it hot again, spray with more carb clean, and repeat the process again. Keep doing this until you've removed as much carbon around the injector as humanly possible.

The next step is to flood the injector bore with a penetrant, I highly recommend Seafoam Deep Creep, it's one of the best penetrant's on the market and really eats through carbon.
Flood the injector bore with deep creep, and drive the car around for a few days. Keep the deep creep flooded in order to make sure the carbon never re-solidifies.

On the day you're ready to remove the injectors, make sure the engine is nice and hot.

The injector hold down clamps is the best tool to pull the injectors out besides a slide hammer. You're to back out all of the injectors bolts carefully, an the stick a punch or Phillips screwdriver into the hold down clamps hole where the bolt you just pulled out went, and then pry towards the front of the engine, opposite of the injector in order to create leverage to pull the injector UP.

That should remove all the injectors, if not, purchase a slide hammer kit to pull them that way. (I've never had to use a slide hammer, they've always come out with the above instructions.)

Clean the area in and around the injector bore, and then ream the injector seat in the head until it's flat, use a NEW seal washer and stretch bolt to reinstall the injector, and the job is done.
Kajtek1 likes this.
Rossafuss is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 06:48 PM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
ironforger's Avatar
 
Date registered: Feb 2019
Vehicle: 2006 E320 CDI
Location: Lawrenceville, NJ
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossafuss View Post
This can be completed with a basic set of tools, and A LOT of patience.
Pay close attention to all the instructions I'm about to type, because I've done this job 6 times, 4 times on OM648's, and 2 times on OM642's.

Scan the ECU to check for any injector codes. If you can get this car cheaply and do this procedure correctly, this will be a nice deal.

Tools:
-Flat head screw driver
-Hammer
-4-5 cans of carb/choke cleaner OR a couple quarts of lacquor thinner.
-Seafoam Deep Creep penetrant.
-Torx socket to fit the injector stretch bolt, can't remember the size. Someone chime in if you remember.
-one of those flexible grabber things with the fingers on the end, use that to grab paper towels, makes cleaning the injector bore very easy.
-an OM648 injector seat reaming kit, you can get them cheap on eBay.
-a couple rolls of shop towels
-needle nose pliers.
-a solid week of working on the car 2-3 hours a night.

You're going to want to carefully chip away all of the carbon buildup around the Injectors with a hammer and screwdriver, CAREFULLY. Think of it as digging around a fossil. Use a vacuum to pick up the chips. The 'carbon' is actually solidified exhaust gasses that escape through the worn injector seal, and the foam insulation that used to sit on top of the injectors. This does not have to be done on a hot engine UNTIL you start using carb clean.

Once you've chipped and scraped away as much carbon as possible, you're going to flood each injector bore with carb clean AFTER you've taken the car for a half an hour drive to get it to operating temp.

Once the carb clean hits the carbon, you will notice the carbon bubbling up. Keep the carb clean full in that area for about 5 minutes, and scrape as much of that goo out as possible with a screw driver/dental pick and shop towels.

Once you've hit hard carbon again, go take the car for another drive to get it hot again, spray with more carb clean, and repeat the process again. Keep doing this until you've removed as much carbon around the injector as humanly possible.

The next step is to flood the injector bore with a penetrant, I highly recommend Seafoam Deep Creep, it's one of the best penetrant's on the market and really eats through carbon.
Flood the injector bore with deep creep, and drive the car around for a few days. Keep the deep creep flooded in order to make sure the carbon never re-solidifies.

On the day you're ready to remove the injectors, make sure the engine is nice and hot.

The injector hold down clamps is the best tool to pull the injectors out besides a slide hammer. You're to back out all of the injectors bolts carefully, an the stick a punch or Phillips screwdriver into the hold down clamps hole where the bolt you just pulled out went, and then pry towards the front of the engine, opposite of the injector in order to create leverage to pull the injector UP.

That should remove all the injectors, if not, purchase a slide hammer kit to pull them that way. (I've never had to use a slide hammer, they've always come out with the above instructions.)

Clean the area in and around the injector bore, and then ream the injector seat in the head until it's flat, use a NEW seal washer and stretch bolt to reinstall the injector, and the job is done.
Rossafuss, great info. Thanks for the details! I hope I never have to do this. I recently purchased an 06 E320 CDi with 290k miles. Didnt look under the engine cover until I got it home. I guess I'm very luck as everything is very clean, no sign of black death.

Question, how often would you recommend checking for black death? How rapidly does the black death occur once an injector starts leaking? And just to confirm, is it not caused my leaking diesel fuel? But is caused by exhaust gasses / soot mixing and melting that insulating foam under the engine cover?

Thanks
ironforger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > General Mercedes-Benz Forums > Diesel Discussion

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Topic Author Forum Replies Last Post
2005 E320 CDI for sale bart_dood For Sale/Wanted/Trade/Giveaway 2 02-17-2019 09:03 AM
Test2 Fonzi Test 3 07-13-2018 10:04 AM
observations on my 06 E320CDI, black death, etc cvincent W211 E-Class 10 02-16-2015 07:42 AM
2005 Mercedes E320 CDI EGR Disable - HELP paco1128 W211 E-Class 7 12-01-2013 06:00 PM
THE HEROIN ROAD Black tar moves in, and death follows Teutone Off-Topic 8 02-15-2010 10:09 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome