OM642 2011 R350 BlueTEC - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 03:35 PM
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This car was a $50,000 if purchased new, and this makes it more difficult to decide to dump it. If there is rust, or body damage then the dumping it is easier. But if its only the engine with oil leaks or a streched timing chain, these are low cost repairs if you can do the work yourself and have a place to work.
Well, the Passat was $27K new.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:47 PM
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I've read that article before, some years ago.

The car leaks oil all over the ground.

I do trust my mechanic (factory-trained by Mercedes-Benz), because he actually does not want to work on the car. They think I should sell or trade the car.

As I said, I haven't seen them take the intake manifold cover off. A service consultant told me to have that done.
I think you should sell or trade the car...and I'm also a factory trained tech.

I'll reiterate, any car with OM642 is basically a rolling cash drawer, and that engine combo with this particular model van (R251) basically makes it a double zinger in terms of costs. If you were local to me, we would be on first name basis. I really cannot stress enough on just how many MB vans I work on compared to ML or GL or any other classes.

If you are not particularly attached to this car, I would say sell it. If you really love this car and cannot bear the thought of switching to another one, well...you need to think to see if this car is worth the expense.

Let's say you pay 5k now to fix the oil leak and timing chain, and lets say, another 2k or so to fix the adblue issue. What about other parts that are bound to fail?

The sunroof drain at the rear passenger side likes to clog and overflow, so the water overflow gets to the rear fusebox and rear SAM unit. You'll find out when the car won't start, or the battery drains because the lights stay on all the time...and that's a $1100 bill.

What about the front differential going bad? The bearings/race in the front driveshaft is so close to the exhaust that they cook and eventually make squealing noise. ML, GL, and R class all have this issue.

What about the 722.9 transmission? Or airmatic?

Is paying for all of that worth paying for the car? If it is and you can afford it, don't let me stop you. Sometimes you gotta keep the wife happy...
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2018, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ot1 View Post
This car was a $50,000 if purchased new, and this makes it more difficult to decide to dump it. If there is rust, or body damage then the dumping it is easier. But if its only the engine with oil leaks or a streched timing chain, these are low cost repairs if you can do the work yourself and have a place to work.
This car was custom ordered for me and was $71k. It has the premium 2 package, adaptive suspension package, rear seat entertainment, rear air conditioning controls, lighting package, panorama sunroof, heated and ventilated front seats, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, and park assist package. It's loaded. Apparently, it was one of the most expensive R350s ever ordered. No one seems to care these days. Today, I got a trade-in value of approx $7k, down from Carmax's $9,500 without the CEL earlier this year.

This vehicle is not simple to work on. The engine has to be removed from underneath. My mechanics told me it would be the worst car for a novice to learn on.

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Originally Posted by Deplore View Post
I think you should sell or trade the car...and I'm also a factory trained tech.

I'll reiterate, any car with OM642 is basically a rolling cash drawer, and that engine combo with this particular model van (R251) basically makes it a double zinger in terms of costs. If you were local to me, we would be on first name basis. I really cannot stress enough on just how many MB vans I work on compared to ML or GL or any other classes.

If you are not particularly attached to this car, I would say sell it. If you really love this car and cannot bear the thought of switching to another one, well...you need to think to see if this car is worth the expense.

Let's say you pay 5k now to fix the oil leak and timing chain, and lets say, another 2k or so to fix the adblue issue. What about other parts that are bound to fail?

The sunroof drain at the rear passenger side likes to clog and overflow, so the water overflow gets to the rear fusebox and rear SAM unit. You'll find out when the car won't start, or the battery drains because the lights stay on all the time...and that's a $1100 bill.

What about the front differential going bad? The bearings/race in the front driveshaft is so close to the exhaust that they cook and eventually make squealing noise. ML, GL, and R class all have this issue.

What about the 722.9 transmission? Or airmatic?

Is paying for all of that worth paying for the car? If it is and you can afford it, don't let me stop you. Sometimes you gotta keep the wife happy...
I'm at about $5k for the timing chain and tensioners. I am getting the AdBlue diagnosed by my indies. They're looking at it for free. Three of the guys who work in the shop confronted me and told me to get rid of it. My sunroof is a panorama roof. I've already got a problem with the tailgate latch. There seems to be an electrical problem with one of the lights in the 3rd row. One of the entertainment screens has a fault. One of the struts is going. I'm a single guy. My parents got it for me when I was 18. I've had other cars come and go, but this one has always been with me.

I have been looking at the LR Discovery and Range Rover Velar, Volvo XC90 and V90, and Mercedes-Benz GLC and E-Wagon. Any recommendations on this front would also be appreciated!
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2018, 07:57 PM
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>>I have been looking at the LR Discovery and Range Rover Velar, Volvo XC90 and V90, and Mercedes-Benz GLC and E-Wagon. Any recommendations on this front would also be appreciated!<<

I can't tell if you are being serious.

Pretty sure that is a list of the most expensive to repair, least reliable cars on the planet.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-24-2018, 10:46 PM
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Actually on that list, the E63 wagon or E550 wagon would be the best. Mercedes E classes were always solid (barring the first generation of any models) and their V8 were also solid.

V8 E classes are what I consider the best combination of luxury and reliability. Not as many tech as the S, more comfortable and slightly better built than C, and the same power as the S. What's not to like?

All other cars on that list.....lol. I refuse to work on Volvo, and land rovers are just gravy jobs. Did so many air suspension compressors, struts and water cooled alternators that I do them in my sleep.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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I am serious. I am looking at new leases. I have a 146lb dog, so I can't have a sedan. Our E500 is almost never driven.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb-enthusiast1 View Post
This car was custom ordered for me and was $71k. It has the premium 2 package, adaptive suspension package, rear seat entertainment, rear air conditioning controls, lighting package, panorama sunroof, heated and ventilated front seats, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, and park assist package. It's loaded. Apparently, it was one of the most expensive R350s ever ordered. No one seems to care these days. Today, I got a trade-in value of approx $7k, down from Carmax's $9,500 without the CEL earlier this year.

This vehicle is not simple to work on. The engine has to be removed from underneath. My mechanics told me it would be the worst car for a novice to learn on.



I'm at about $5k for the timing chain and tensioners. I am getting the AdBlue diagnosed by my indies. They're looking at it for free. Three of the guys who work in the shop confronted me and told me to get rid of it. My sunroof is a panorama roof. I've already got a problem with the tailgate latch. There seems to be an electrical problem with one of the lights in the 3rd row. One of the entertainment screens has a fault. One of the struts is going. I'm a single guy. My parents got it for me when I was 18. I've had other cars come and go, but this one has always been with me.

I have been looking at the LR Discovery and Range Rover Velar, Volvo XC90 and V90, and Mercedes-Benz GLC and E-Wagon. Any recommendations on this front would also be appreciated!
Timing chain parts about $300, I guess the rest of the $5000 was labor?
More than 22 hrs to replace the timing chain? Yikes
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Timing chain parts about $300, I guess the rest of the $5000 was labor?
More than 22 hrs to replace the timing chain? Yikes
Not sure where you are, but labor here is $110/hr at indie and $198/hr at the dealer. It's about $5000 for the oil cooler seals and the timing chain.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 04:41 PM
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What grade of oil has this car been serviced with?

So far as I know, when the Bluetecs with Adblue came in, the required oil type was MB229.51, Later changed to MB229.52. These are what they call low SAPS or low ash oils.

A low ash or SAPS motor oil has low proportion of sulphate ash, phosphorus and sulphur. They have lower tendency to form ash that can result in problems with the DPF and other engine parts.

When DPFs start to plug up, they need more regeneration. This increases fuel and DPF usage. The high engine temperatures that are required for regeneration can also produce sludge, particularly if the wrong engine oil has been used.

Many shops were used to using MB229.5 (and maybe other grades) in Mercedes diesels and continued to do same with Bluetecs. These oils were good lubricants, but the shops/mechanics were perhaps not yet aware of just why Bluetecs needed a different oil. (My own experience, has been that they still don't.)

By the way, I am no expert in this. I own a Bluetec, am a Chem.Eng., and am trying to understand this overly complex emission system. Still not there!

Last edited by MBGraham; 10-27-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 12:59 AM
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For whatever it is worth my 1972 Detroit diesel required low-ash oil as well and I had to make special trips to dealer as the only source for it.
The 2-cycle engine was very far away from emission controls
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