Wonít unlock. - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 02:05 PM
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Ok so when I get home in a few hours hereís what Iím going to do.

Find an always on fuse in the trunk. Remove the fuse, plug in the tap, plug a fuse into the tap, strip the power cable from the tap connect the booster, ground it and see if thatís enough for the fob to turn the doors open.

Sound right?


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That looks like a plan. It may be fuse # 12 that is a non switched fuse.
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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Fuse 12 isnít on terminal 30 like keyhole said


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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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I tried tapping into the fuse box. But it didnít work for me had a locksmith show up and they opened it up. It was the battery.


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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 05:21 PM
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Great. Glad you got it open. I am sure a new battery will get you up and running again. Might want to check to see if your alternator is up to par. Also make certain your battery cables are in good shape.
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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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The battery was completely dead didnít even register the key when I put it in the ignition. I gave it a boost and it started right up.
I bought a new battery and installed already. Hope thatís all it was.
Thanks for the help!

Now if I can get some help on my other post P0172 and p0175 that would be great!




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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:03 AM
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The battery was completely dead didnít even register the key when I put it in the ignition. I gave it a boost and it started right up.
I bought a new battery and installed already. Hope thatís all it was.
Thanks for the help!
Glad to read that your problem is solved.. A few additional comments here.

1. What did the locksmith do? Is the lock now damaged?

2. I suspect that your battery was not 'flat' as it was OK after a boost. It probably has an internal 'open-circuit', which somehow repaired itself (briefly) after a charge. I have had that situation myself. You did the right thing replacing the battery.

3. If you need to do any electrical work on your car in the future you really need a (digital) test meter for checking dc voltages and resistances. They are very cheap now and are simple to use. - once you learn the operation.
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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure if he was a ďlocksmithĒ I just googled ďlocked out of my carĒ and started calling people.
He put one of those inflatable cushions between the drivers side and rear window pumped it a little and used a rod to pull the handle. (I thought the window was going to break)


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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quick question,

When i was changing the battery I noticed there was a tube next to the battery that wasnít hooked up to anything, is that tube suppose to be plugged into the battery?


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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 12:53 PM
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He put one of those inflatable cushions between the drivers side and rear window pumped it a little and used a rod to pull the handle. (I thought the window was going to break)
I've read about that technique. I'll bet that he broke a few windows before he figured out just how small a gap he needed....
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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quick question,

When i was changing the battery I noticed there was a tube next to the battery that wasnít hooked up to anything, is that tube suppose to be plugged into the battery?
As I understand it, the original type of lead/acid battery which had 6 removable screw tops for topping up with distilled water, used a vent port on the battery to drain excess liquid via a tube to under the car. If the tube was not connected, you stood a chance of battery acid corroding the battery tray.

Modern sealed batteries do not have topping up facilities, but they still need the vent outlet connected. I believe for gas, not liquids.
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