clk55 fuel line disconnect - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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I'm having difficulties attaching an image from my phone. Can I forward a picture of the engine block divet to someones email account?
Please disregard and see follow-up post. Icloud problem resolved.

Last edited by dgdrx; 05-29-2019 at 11:32 AM. Reason: update
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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hopefully this message shows pic attached of my 04 clk55 engine block imperfection
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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so I'm waiting for my MB black sealant to arrive to address my block issue. I have decided to only apply the sealant to the affected area (or other suggestions?).
I have several options (and questions)
A) apply thin line to center of gasket where it will sit over damaged area (maybe also thinly "feathering" away from the area for an inch). I will need enough right over the damage
to assure it will fill the indent. place/set it carefully and lightly finger tight and wait to torque properly in 2 passes, gradually increasing torque. I don't have the sealant so I don't know
if I have to wait before setting the valve cover and or before torqueing.
I could also just try to apply closer to the outer edge of the gasket.
B) try to fill the damage channel directly on the block as even as possible (again following directions when I get the sealant) and then placing the valve cover with dry gasket.
I could also apply a thin layer to the gasket to "marry" to the sealant applied to the block.
Interestingly enough the damaged area was not the leak problem, the leak was on the top edge closet to the firewall.
This is all new to me and appreciate all the help. Without over thinking I really want to get this right.
I am also seeing strong opinions on the MB sealant not compatible with a rubber gasket and coming loose. An aviation blog suggests Loctite gasket sealnt 2 and the racing and biker blogs all suggest yamabond. Also I've seen MB sealants require a 7 day full cure?

Last edited by dgdrx; 05-29-2019 at 03:19 PM. Reason: update
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 04:39 PM
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Hi dgdrx ,
I would go with option B. Apply the sealant directly to the dent using your finger ,,filling it up to about 2mm above level for an inch or more in each direction ,,but not very thick on the side close the inside of the engine..you don't want to apply so much sealant that it may be squeezed out inside the engine.
Also apply a thin smear to the gasket sealing face where it will meet the damaged area.

Have the gasket already seated in the vc and ready to go on ,,,after you apply the sealant you want to fit the cover asap ,,,and then torque it in stages up to 8 Nm ,,,,,also asap.
That way the sealant cures in it's final position.
I have never used genuine MB sealant or Loctite 5970 which is the same thing ,,,,so I can't say from experience ,,
I do know that Dow Corning Silastic Gasket sticks very well and basically permanently to everything ,,rubber gasket and metal surfaces,,,I would have thought that 5970 would be the same ,but the advantage is that it is neutral cure ie,does not emit any acetic acid when curing ,,,and takes 25 mins to skin ,,which gives you plenty of time to apply it and torque it down.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I agree with your plan. On another note does anyone know the marking on the baum engine oil dipstick for my 04 clk55 engine for full. I've seen a few
references that disagree. Is it the 160 mark?
Thanks again, wish me luck sealing this valve cover.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:13 PM
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This is the dipstick chart from the WIS for your engine 113.987

This shows the OK range is 163mm to 165mm.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by keyhole View Post
This is the dipstick chart from the WIS for your engine 113.987

This shows the OK range is 163mm to 165mm.
Hi Keyhole ,,
Thanks for the chart ,,,my car is a W209 with engine 113.988,,,,does the chart still apply ?
Any idea what the difference is between 987 and 988 ?
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't had chance to use the dip stick yet but I seem to recall it will not go all the way in; so you "bottom it out" as far as it will go? I've read a couple inches will
remain? How bizarre. I've also just noticed my driver side view mirror could use replacing. $250 on line for original heated auto dim. Also install looks fun trying to clip
in.
On another note my magic MBZ black sealant has been curing for 3 days; time to see if I successfully sealed the valve cover.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 05:03 AM
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The dipstick tools are used on different engines with different length tubes ,,so yes , you bottom it out,,,
It should be checked 5 minutes after stopping the engine ,, with hot oil ,,,
Be careful not to overfill,,,,I aim for about 200ml less than full. ie , 8.5l oil change ,,, I measure and add 8.3l and then see if the car is happy. It usually is.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Just took a little ride and so far no leak, but we need to drive more. I did notice a slightly rougher "stumbling" idle, very subtle. I did disconnect the battery and
replaced a few breather hoses as well as clean the MAF sensor. I have read about a throttle "position/switch or the sort" reset sometimes required?
Any ideas/suggestions or do I just need to drive for a bit and let the "computers" reset/figure it out?
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