CLK top cables fixed for $1 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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CLK top cables fixed for $1

My CLK top now works perfectly with a $1 fix. I used ferrule stops from Lowes which can be found in the steel cable section of the store. Crimped (used electrical crimpers and hammered the crimper while everything was in place) these onto the end of the top cable ends, then used my grinding wheel to shape them like the factory ends that slipped off.

The attached picture shows a factory end I found and used as a guide for shaping the new ends that were crimped on.

Cables were easy to remove by just removing four screws on the header plate, pulling back gently to release plastic clips holding in place, strectch plate back gently then unbolt the 10 mm bolt holding cable strut (top handle does not necessary have to be removed), on rear top bar push the black plasitic cable retainers through toward the back of the roof bar(these round holders unsnap in half so the cable can be insterted into these retainer clips. Cable with newly created ends must be insterted through holes (they won't go thru grind and shape them smaller until they do) in rear top bar the retainers are now snapped around the cable then the cable and plastic retainer around it are pushed back through holes. now bolt the cable strut back onto the front of the top and you are done. This took about 1 hour to fix and excluded time at hardware store...
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Owner of '97 C230 silver, 2000 red CLK soft top, 2013 Prius white, 2015 Prius white
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-06-2010, 09:45 AM
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I tried this before and it just popped of after a few weeks of use. Maybe I didn't crimp it tight enough and hit it with a hammer. Good thing I still have the old cable laying around, I'll try it again.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-06-2010, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have opened and closed mine approx ten times so far. I do catch the roof rather than letting in plop down hard into place. If this does not hold over time, plan B is to use a method used on bicycle brakes. This will involve cutting the cable shorter, then doing a loop through ferule to add more length (could probably use smaller gauge wire on new end). Next drill hole in the top of a bolt that will fit in factory roof bar hole, feed new joined cable thru bolt, adjust tension then bolt into place with locking nut. Plan B should never come loose, but I thought i would stick with plan A for now.

Owner of '97 C230 silver, 2000 red CLK soft top, 2013 Prius white, 2015 Prius white

Last edited by jc-place; 10-06-2010 at 06:48 PM. Reason: edits
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 02:01 PM
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Is there a reason you didn't just purchase the original part?
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Soft lead cable end will probably just break off again due to poor design. The stealership wants $200 plus tax for the cables. I ordered some genuine OEM cables online for 1/4 price but they were similar but different and longer than old ones so i had to return them (If these were modified/revised parts I don't know how to install them). Plus these cables seem to be difficult to get without going to stealership and it is also hard to find articles about them on the net.

I did an earlier post on topic and didn't get a response on what part or where to get other than using dealer.

Owner of '97 C230 silver, 2000 red CLK soft top, 2013 Prius white, 2015 Prius white
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 09:52 PM
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Wow. Thanks! Any updates two years later??

Where is the header plate?

Thank you!

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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 10:06 AM
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I had a roof cable problem, but after finding the back termination point of the cables with the roof partly retracted, it seemed to me that mine were not broken, but just loosened, or "stretched". After reading some posts, I decided to check the front anchor point for the cables to see if they were broken at that end.

I removed the handle with a 2.5 or 3 mm hex wrench (make sure the roof is not latched when you do this--its easier to work with it down, and lean over the back seat), and then took the four phillips head screws off the plastic cover, and lifted the cover off. There are four plastic clips that will release with a small about of force.

Then if you peel back the roof liner at the front corner of the roof, you can find the front anchor point of the cable. Its held by a 10mm nut. After removing the nut and taking the front part of the cable out, I got a nice surprise. The bracket that it sits in is adjustable. You can see the three positions in the photo below on the left. There is another thread that says this is not adjustable, but it is, in three discrete positions. The difficulty is that the part in the picture is underneath the mounting hole, so you cant see where it is positioned once you have the screw back in the hole.

So I put it back together and before tightening the nut, I pushed the bracket all the way towards the front of the roof in order to effectively shorten the cable by about half an inch. I then did the other side, and this time, having seen how the adjustment works, I simply loosened the 10mm nut and pushed the assembly towards the front of the roof. It seems that mine were installed so that there was room for adjustment.

After that I got it back together and it solved the problem of the roof not staying fully open (front-most joint on the convertible top must stay "broken" and cannot fall into the "locked-out" straight position when the hydraulic mechanism first lifts the rear window). It takes a little more force to close the roof with the handle now, but it is no longer slamming into the top of the windshield when its closed.

Note: getting the handle re-installed was tricky. I had to put the roof down, leave the lid cover up, and remove the plastic cover again so I could install the handle to see how it actually worked. The handle actually is a cam. As you pull it down to turn it, its base presses against a ring of metal that surrounds the shaft, and that releases the latch. You can't get the threaded pin that holds it into the hole except in the "turned" position as if you were unlatching the roof. So to re-attach it, work with the roof lowered into its compartment, (but the roof compartment cover still up so that you can get to it). Press down hard with the handle oriented at right angles to the panel, and the mechanism will depress and release and allow you to turn it so you can get the pin into the hole. If you're having trouble, put the handle back on with the roof in the boot, but with the long plastic cover not on. Then operate the handle and you'll understand what has to be depressed to allow you to get the pin back in when the plastic cover is installed.
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Last edited by MBgrappler; 09-20-2012 at 08:43 AM.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 03:55 PM
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Awesome! Thank you! Any more pics would be great!

Current:
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Previous:
1992 300TE; 1976 280SLC; 1972 280SE 4.5 (x2); 1983 300D
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 07:13 AM
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Thats great, mine slams down on close but pops up and stays up when opening, found the cables that appear coated black and tucked them and nice and tight so could just need adjusting,
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy111 View Post
Thats great, mine slams down on close but pops up and stays up when opening, found the cables that appear coated black and tucked them and nice and tight so could just need adjusting,
That's all you did...and you top works again?

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