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Towing with GLK-350

55K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  mjhawkins2346 
#1 ·
New GLK 350-2015 owner. At time of purchase we told sales person we wanted to tow a travel trailer.(weight under 3500) None of the available vehicles had a trailer package, but we were told "no worries" you can go to u-haul. Turns out, " no worries" is now big money as the trailer hitch is not the problem, it's the electronic brake controller that is the issue. No trailer place wants to install this. Mercedes wants big bucks, plus has to install new fan, new bumper, etc. Just wondered if any of my fellow GLKers have run into this?
 
#2 ·
Here you go.... haven't experienced electric brakes.... but this thread should help you.
Electric brake controller - MBWorld.org Forums
"Our 2012 GLK came with the factory tow option, which includes the hitch and socket. It is true that there is no factory wiring in the vehicle for electric trailer brakes, meaning there is no wiring to the dash area (or anywhere else) to connect brake controller.
There is a solution, however, and that is to simply buy a Prodigy RF Wireless electronic controller. It's basically plug-and-play. The factory socket at the hitch will accomodate the system and supply adequate power to the Prodigy to activate electric trailer brakes, without any modifications. The controller bolts on your trailer hitch and simply plugs into the socket at the car hitch. The trailer cable socket then plugs into the Prodigy unit. Up front, the wireless unit plugs into your cigarette lighter socket. Its purpose is to allow you to manually apply trailer brakes, if need be. However, the wireless controller does not need to be turned on, plugged in, or even present for the Prodigy unit on the trailer to function."
Google is your friend...
 
#3 ·
This forum does not seem to be very active :-s

I was curious about towing with my GLK as well, Ive read 4k is the max towing weight recommended. MB sells a towing kit for $550 ..

GLK350 Trailer Hitch - MBWorld.org Forums

the above link is for the 2011...however I would assume the 2010-2015 are all the same.

I would be more concerned about the powertrain warranty with towing. Would towing violate MB's warranty?
 
#6 ·
.

the above link is for the 2011...however I would assume the 2010-2015 are all the same.

I would be more concerned about the powertrain warranty with towing. Would towing violate MB's warranty?
Trust me.... all GLK350 hitches are NOT the same. Been there, done that.(there is a thread about that here somewhere)
2013 and up are different from the early years but I did find out that most all hitches (AM) are made by the same company. That came from the manufacture directly.

As far as towing with a GLK, I wouldn't do it. If towing to you is dragging something down the Hwy, it might do it OK but when your having to brake hard, cross winds, steep hills, etc.... save that for a larger, safer tow vehicle.
Just my two cents.. :wave:
 
#7 ·
I agree with Trasher.

I do tow a trailer with my GLK 250, but it is only 1000 lbs of trailer and drift boat combined. I would venture that towing a small utility trailer is ok, but I wouldn't want to be towing +2000 lbs of trailer often on the open road ... or even worse, in traffic.

I guess I'm lucky, when I need to pull real loads, I can borrow a company pick-up, ... we use 3/4 ton crew cab 4x4's and they are fitted with electric brake couplers and torsion bar hitches.
 
#8 ·
towing experience with ML

Researched this as I am considering a GLK. GLK has same engine and trans as ML. I've towed 2500#s over Snoqualmie Pass for years with the ML equipped with trans fluid temperature gauge. It has not exceeded 235 degrees with 300 degrees being the red line. I read the codes and saw one high temp notation but it was not significant enough to light the check engine light. GLK may or may not take some sort of action to protect itself when it is overheating like limp home mode or whatever those clever Germans were thinking of, I don't know. When fluid is too hot, viscosity is reduced, pressures fall, clutches slip, friction surfaces glaze, and transmissions fail.
GLK has an anti-sway software adjunct to ESP which cannot be dealer installed but which comes with trailer tow option.
Real issue is that the trailer needs brakes if it exceeds 40% of weight of tow vehicle. GLK is about 4000#s. Surge brakes work great for me and a tap on the pedal will straighten it right out. On electric brakes, you can run a wireless controller.
 
#9 ·
The GLK is a very competent tow vehicle. The factory hitch includes a connection to the ESC which can be very useful to stop swaying on the road. I tow a 1500# trailer but it's rated to 3500# and I understand the Euro spec'd cars are higher rated.
Search this forum and the other forum for hitch installations. There are at least 2 versions installed based on the pre or post facelift years (Curt is a brand that comes to mind) and the brackets around the exhaust and the fuel tank can be tricky. Might be worth having the dealer do it if you can spring for it.
I sold my pickup truck because I was tired of the size, the ride and the mileage. Putting a trailer on the back of the GLK gives me a 1/2 ton pickup truck bed on the fly and something nice to drive.
 
#10 ·
There's towing and towing.

Hi,
I have a GLK350 and wish that it had a hitch to tow a small boat, which with the trailer weighs maybe 1,200 lbs. This would be safe. The problem is not really the hitch, which is expensive, it is the WIRING. I have balked at pursuing this because the dealer told me that the wiring would cost >$800, and the hitch dealer told me he would not touch it because the wire-taps would almost certainly upset the electric current monitoring. The only option is an inductive system like our old timing lights (most of you will not know what that is!). However, the only time one really needs lights is at night. So, I may get the hitch, and just drive during daytime. This is the induction type wiring:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit...Class/2014/119250KIT.html?vehicleid=201444356

It gives me much confidence that it is shown with a BMW.

I would like to give advice here --- in the thread, there is discussion about towing large loads and using brakes. I have a F250 HD which is suited for heavy hauling. Sure, the GLK350 will probably pull my larger boat, which on the trailer is about 6,000 lbs, but stopping is the main consideration. The brakes are the main concern, and surge brakes are not supposed to be relied upon. The tow limits are inaccurate. Some common sense is well placed with towing.
 
#15 ·
Dancin' With the Devil

Hi,
I have a GLK350 and wish that it had a hitch to tow a small boat, which with the trailer weighs maybe 1,200 lbs. This would be safe. The problem is not really the hitch, which is expensive, it is the WIRING. I have balked at pursuing this because the dealer told me that the wiring would cost >$800, and the hitch dealer told me he would not touch it because the wire-taps would almost certainly upset the electric current monitoring. The only option is an inductive system like our old timing lights (most of you will not know what that is!). However, the only time one really needs lights is at night. So, I may get the hitch, and just drive during daytime. This is the induction type wiring:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit...Class/2014/119250KIT.html?vehicleid=201444356

It gives me much confidence that it is shown with a BMW.

I would like to give advice here --- in the thread, there is discussion about towing large loads and using brakes. I have a F250 HD which is suited for heavy hauling. Sure, the GLK350 will probably pull my larger boat, which on the trailer is about 6,000 lbs, but stopping is the main consideration. The brakes are the main concern, and surge brakes are not supposed to be relied upon. The tow limits are inaccurate. Some common sense is well placed with towing.
It may be inaccurate and the GLK is built to tow far more than 3500 pounds, I don't know. I hear some European OP's talking about a 4000 pound rating but this could be very foolhardy. If you get the brake issue worked out the car's traction control system is designed to minimize swaying and will go crazy with a large load.
That's not the worst. If (God forbid) you have an accident you might find your insurance company will want nothing to do with you. They will give you the unused premium back, cancel your policy and deny the claim as intentional misuse. Yes, I'm in that business and would try to protect and help my client but there may be no saving it.
 
#11 ·
Just a heads up on most trailer hitches that are made for this vehicle. Most are made by one company and are labeled for each of the other companies that retail them. The issue is that the most forward mounting place is on the rear differential. I have broken 4 bolts (one at a time) and that is the only bolt for this mount. Tried grade 8 bolts and each one snaps. The problem is that the whole assy for the rear diff is rubber mounted and moves which causes the bolt to break off. I've been in contact many times with the manufacture and they also agree. In their defense they have been great to work with, offered different suggestions but all have failed due to the movement. The biggest thing I've had on that hitch is two mountain bikes which are ultra light carbon bikes.
this is another major reason I say no to towing anything with this car and I'm using my other car for the bikes. Maybe there are other high end hitches with other mounting which would work but most are designed like I have.
 
#12 ·
Wow, thanks Trasher! I was about to order the hitch, but now will not. It also seems like this would introduce the possibility of damaging the differential. If it is supposed to move, this will prevent the movement or otherwise alter it.

My spouse loves this vehicle, but along with not being able to find repair documentation, I am wishing for the 1998 Audi Avant.
 
#18 ·
Where in any standard auto policy is there ANY restriction or instruction about exceeding design limits or specifications? It does not exist!

There is NOTHING in a policy about 'proximate' cause. That's a legal term dealing with accidents and used only for liability issues.

I was in the insurance claim business for 30 years or so, was claims manager in multiple locations in multiple states, and eventually was VP of claims for a large insurance company. If you know what a CPCU is, I was also one of those. I was also on the Inter-company Arbitration Committee panel for several years in the Los Angeles area where we adjudicated fights between companies. I do know insurance, which I've tried for years to forget!!

If you exceed limits of what a car is specified to do, you're pretty stupid, but stupidity isn't excluded from insurance coverage either. People do stupid things every day and cause accidents and they are covered. Mechanical failure of any car part is possible, including blowing tires while exceeding their speed rating and having an accident. Any insurance company is obligated to live up to the terms of the policy. The only thing excluded in any mechanical failure is the failing part or parts. Resulting accident and injury is covered. Even if you were stupidly drunk!
 
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