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Retrofit of rear electric windows - how complicated it is?

8K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  amulder2001 
#1 ·
Does anyone have a clue how difficult is to retrofit the rear electric windows. It's a B200CDI, 2005, has only the front electric windows.

As my kids are playing with windows all the time during trip - I am getting curious about this retrofit. Having rear windows electric I would be able locking them from the drivers control switch panel.

Chinese 3rd party aren't too expensive, but how about using Mercedes original parts so I can use all features and full integration ?
 
#3 ·
Thanks Gole ;-)
Petar, just don't even bother doing this. I have done it, because others mentioned it was just a matter of 2 electrical window lifters, and some switches. I now know these people did not have a clue what they were talking about.
The entire project has cost me almost EUR1,000 in total (all required materials, plus some labour for the MB dealer to programme the damned thing). I had purchased most of the large components second hand, whilst all electrical connectors, wires, etc. were bought new.
In addition, count on more than 7 full days of (frustrating) work...

Morale, for as far as I'm concerned: Save your money for a more complete car when you trade in your current one.

Arjen.

EDIT: Would you (in spite of my above reply) want some hints of how to do this, PM me.
 
#4 ·
When I saw your post in Dutch and I got chills.

Gole has sent me list of parts I would need buying and the list is longer than weekly household shopping list.

Nah, i won't do it, maybe buying rear doors if ever i have a chance... new car would be even better...

Thx both for replies !
 
#6 ·
"Spare the rod,..and Spoil the child"....:twak:...........who said that..?...:devil


Come on Arjen...!!..Why spoil a good man's fun project..? and I bet that your little one doesn't do that in your B..''


...but seriously...as Arjen has said,..it's a huge project that took him 7 very long days of very tough work..and so many extra costs...
 
#7 ·
Retrofit Rear Electric windows

I had manage to acquire all what's on the list, in references to Arjen's contributions on this.
at the moment I got the both rear doors parts intact and ready to be mounted, but I cant find the time and zeal to do it.

I know at this moment I will need to connect wires or harness from the doors to the SAM, which seems to be the difficult part in all this retrofit.
the easiest part of this retrofit is done (ie. all parts to mount on doors ready lying on my workshop table for months now)

I managed to change as at now the front doors modules from the ordinary modules to the comfort modules and with this adding the exit light to doors; this gives a superb and enhancements to the door during the night when its opened.

But the modules I got cheaply; were from a W245 2009 scrap car in England, which works perfectly ok for my 2007 model, except that my left button works for the right window, and the right window button when pressed works for the left, (LOL)

The comfort operation of the window works perfectly with just a firm touch the window goes up automatically or down automatically.
 
#8 ·
... were from a W245 2009 scrap car in England, which works perfectly ok for my 2007 model,

except that my left button works for the right window, and the right window button when pressed works for the left, (LOL)
Those window switches from England will get us every time..:grin

I wonder how hard it would be to reverse the switch operation to get the windows to operate properly on your left hand drive..?
 
#9 ·
Oh my.... you have started this....
Well, now that you're doing this, bear in mind you don't even touch the SAM unit. The only wiring that you need to pull is power + ground, plus CAN-bus high/low to the rear doors, and to modify the door wiring in the front doors (or unnecessarily spend extra cash on a full new door wiring for the front doors).
I once started with the CAN-bus wiring from the CAN-bus splitter block underneath the dash (passenger footrest area, hidden behind the carpet) and with the power (newly installed fuse 34 for left-hand side rear door power, and fuse 35 for the right-hand side one). Take ground from the ground plugs in the front and feed them into your wiring towards the B-pillars. Inside the B-pillars (after removing all the covering) you may find the rectangular plug housing where your newly pulled wires will end (and where they connect to the door wiring).
You may need a dentist mirror and a torchlight to find that rectangular plug housing.

For all the others interested in the project.... here's the tutorial (in Dutch) that I posted on a Dutch MB forum when I completed this retrofit some two years ago: W245/W169 Comfortsluiting/Elektrische ramen achter (584) - [How to] ? MercedesForum.nl/be

Best of luck with this project, and feel free to ask.

Arjen.
 
#10 ·
Hi Arjen,
This seems quite Rocket Science to me, thats why my project just got to a stand still. i had fellowed your contribute on the Ducth Forum, but yet got stuk,

Am not going to touch the Sam, at moment (I might lookout for someone with experince and good knowledge like you to assist me, but here in Belguim, i havent come across any yet).

in reference to the front doors i do still have a brand new door harness A1695408005. (which also seems to be for the passenger door)... am going see if during this summer i get it done at least.

Hello DeVOURS

i think to get the the window working accordingly i quess i will have to code the units to my car by Mercedes before it works properly,
or expensively buy once more the correct modules meant for W245 (2005-2007) (A1698208326 and A1698207026)
 
#11 ·
Mind you that the front door also need new window regulators... The original ones only go down by one touch, and the new ones (one touch going up as well) are really different regulators.
To make the installation idiot proof, Mercedes-Benz decided to change the plug housings as well.... Ergo, your original door wiring harness either needs some overhaul (what I did) or you should replace it by one that is suitable for the one-touch regulators.

Do you plan to do all (incl. the infra-red receiver for remote control of the windows + lamella roof if present)? If so (I did it), then bear in mind the IR receiver is integrated in the door lock... hence it also requires a new "triangle lock" (the part with the emergency key in it).... costing another EUR120 at the time (plus some extra money for additional parts).

Arjen.
 
#15 ·
hi Arjen,
i had got the both front doors, (the window motor, wiring harnesses and the modules) changed, this allows me 'the one touch going up and down' operation. and upgrade to exit lights.

Actually, i have no intention getting the IR receiver, ( although my harnesses has that cable present.
i am satisfy with the comfort touch on the front windows, and the exit lights, which automatically came on when it was fitted, i didnt need any code.
 
#12 ·
Guys, you really dont want to do this...

No single mechanic (with all tutorial shown) here doesnt want to retrofit rear power windows to my friends Bee as it is too much work which you cant charge and job is too complicated. Not to mention price of it...

Maybe get used doors with all components on them...
 
#13 ·
The problem is.... that changing the entire doors is not even enough ;-)
Pulling the wiring into the B-pillars was... let's say: "a challenge", and on top of this depressing project I had to pay quite some $$$ to the MB dealer to have everything programmed.
In my Dutch tutorial I open with the statement that I do not recommend ANYBODY to replicate. The reason for posting was that some people claim that all you need is some switches, window actuators, and some coding/programming by the MB dealer. I found out (the hard way) that these people did not have a clue what they were talking about.
Anyway, if Joe is destined to get his rear power windows, I'll do my best to assist from a distance.

Arjen.
 
#14 ·
Agree... in many projects I learned that it is not easy and cheap as said in threads or posts.

Plus no logistic from MB as they doesnt know or they refuse to do such things.
When I visit MB dealer all folks gather to see whats new on my ride... But also laugh when I m leaving... Description: "what a fool waster money guy"... :laugh
 
#17 ·
I almost think, if it was possible to do this and still use the factory power window switch, that one solution would be to have a 'dumb, non CAN bus' circuit made up to move the rear windows up and down. Basically, running power and ground wires to the window regulators via relays (edit: and of course fuses for protection), then use the power window switches just to close the open/close relays. Kind of like wiring the system old school.

If you kept it basic, you would lose the one-touch down and up operation, and wouldn't have the safety of the window stopping on an obstacle. These features could be added, or maybe another option would be to use some of the electronics from an older benz (I guess from the 80's or 90's), and use those to control the window regulator motor (for a w245) directly.

Disclaimer: just throwing ideas out, not sure if even feasible or worth it.
 
#19 ·
Sorry Paolo, it's more complicated. If you gently pull your door switches, you hear (and feel) two "stops" or positions. Same story for pushing down.
In the basic version, there were also two stops downwards, but only one stop upwards.
The damned feature was clearly not meant to be retrofitted. I honestly do not understand why this was not standard at the time, but I'm not a marketeer :angel

Arjen.
 
#18 ·
Great, Joe!
I would recommend you to start from the fuse box.... The access to the fuse box is a p.i.t.a.: You will have to take away the cover underneath the dash (passenger side), remove the passenger seat (outside Torx bit E12 needed to unscrew the bolts; leave the seat connected to its wiring, and just tilt it backwards and let it rest against the rear seats) and remove the door sill. You may now remove the carpet (passenger side). Once removed, take out the 12V battery. Unscrew the two screws on the top of the fuse box. The fuse box is now ready to be lifted, and in fact this is where the hard work only begins... You need to lift and tilt the fuse box to get it out.

First of all, check whether you see any copper next to the fuse locations 34 and 35. If so, congrats. If not, then take a 30cm Red 4mm2 wire and a "ground clamp" (don't know the name in EN; they end in a ring-shape on the one side, and have the tube shape on the other). Use this thick red wire to feed your copper strip A0205455626 (which feeds the fuses from underneath). Just cut the copper strip to length.

Now pull a 5m Red/Green wire 2.5mm2 from fuse 34 (to left rear door). It starts with a connector A0085458026 ("Kontaktfeder 1.5-2.5 mm2") which has 3 pins; just cut off 1-pin.
Also pull a 5m Red/Black wire 2.5mm2 from fuse 35 (to right rear door). It starts with a connector A0085458026 ("Kontaktfeder 1.5-2.5 mm2") which has 3 pins; just cut off 1-pin.

To get access to the fuses, you need to pull out a block/row of fuses (clicked from underneath). Once the block is "free", then unlock it by pulling out the thin red plastic lock on the side (I had a small B/W photo in my Dutch tutorial on this with "33" in it). Only once this stopper has been pulled out a fair bit, you may feed in your copper strip A0205455626 and your 2 connectors A0085458026. Just gently push until you hear them clicking.

Once this is all done, then pull out your feeding power wires. I mantled them with black Tesa linen tape (brand used by MB dealers over here) from the point where all power wires leave the fuse box. Just do a little bit, and "store" your wires underneath the dash. Put back the fuse box, carpet, seat, battery.

Mind you to leave the contact switched off all the time.

Once you have done this, just get back to me and I happily help you with some hints for the remained. PM me if needed.

Arjen.
 
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