Bleeding the brakes - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 08:13 AM
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Bleeding the brakes

Is bleeding a straight fwd job? i.e open nipple and pump pedal like on an old car with single circuit and no abs, or is there anything to be aware of with the ABS system like having the engine running or having to open more than one nipple due to cross circuits or only pressing the pedal half way etc?
Also is the fulid std dot4?
Thanks.
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:28 AM
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A number of the MB vehicles use DOT 4 fluid. It's always a good idea to stay with the same spec recommended by the manufacturer. When it comes to bleeding the base brake system be sure to follow the bleed sequence that is recommended. Eg: LR, RF, RR, LF or LR, RR, RF, LF. This will be the best way to get air out of the system. Unless ABS modulator has been serviced or replaced, the base brakes should be straight forward. Press the brake pedal, then open bleeder. When the pedal is almost bottomed out, stop. Tighten bleeder, then release the brake pedal. Pumping the pedal up can turn large bubbles into more like foam, which is harder to get out of the system.
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:45 AM
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I just finished bleeding my brakes as described - no problems. I didn't follow the sequence, didn't know about it, but it can't be 'that' important. Interestingly, while I was also replacing pads and rotors (FYI, I did not put the torx screw back in since I had to drill them out) I had a look at the piston cylinder since I hadn't changed the brake fluid in the 165k km that are now on the odometer. In view of past discussions here of dire consequences if brake fluid isn't changed regularly, I expect signs of some rust etc. Nothing, chrome surface was beautiful and shiny. sooo, take that all of you who need to change fluids (and spark plugs ) often

cheers, guenter

had and gone: VW Ghia Type1, Trimph TR4A, VW Beetle, VW Ghia Type3, VW Westfalia, MB 240D, Mazda323, MB 190E, Chevy Cavalier.

Last edited by guenter; 09-29-2011 at 11:48 AM.
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 12:59 PM
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I use the Motive Pressure Bleeder and it works well.

If its 'a manual then bleeding the clutch slave is also a great idea.

Pressing the brake or clutch peddle to the floor in never recommended as it might damage the internal seals when they travel past the normal stopping point. Placing a piece of wood behind the peddle will stop the excessive travel during the bleed process.

Happy bleeding............
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 05:53 PM
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Sucking the fluid out is always better than pumping it out, unless the master cylinder is new....for the reason Derek points out.

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#6 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 09:04 PM
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Also, the sequence is based on bleeding farthest corner from the master cylinder to closest. This is important if you have air in the system, to make sure the bubbles don't go from one line to the other.

Related - when changing brake pads, when you push in the pistons into the caliper, make sure you block off the brake hose on that corner (there's a tool), and loosen the bleeder. This is crucial so the dirty brake fluid doesn't go to your ABS pump when you push the pistons back.

Paul (Paulo Santos)
'83 W123 200, '98 W210 E200K, '08 W245 B200
* Feel free to PM me if needed *
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 02:01 AM
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Great, thanks all.
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#8 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 12:45 AM
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I can warmly recommend the Gunson Eezibleed kit. It makes this a one-man operation, and you get all the bubbles out. Much better than "suction" type systems which could draw small bubbles past the bleeding nipple threads. The adapter that comes with the kit fits the Merc's master cylinder.
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