Rear Hatch Handle - Stuck! - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#11 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 06:13 PM
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Speaking of hatches... my struts don't seem to recoil as before... moisture or damage, I'll giv'em a lube next time around... (almost knocked my head one time believing they pulled up the door already LOL)

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#12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 06:33 PM
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Samoila - that happens to mine when it's cold! I'm smashed my head a couple of times... I pretend I meant to (of course).
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#13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 10:36 PM
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Same here, the pressure is too weak. Mine have been changed once already. I remember the good old days of springs, they were more reliable.

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#14 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samoila Stefan View Post
Speaking of hatches... my struts don't seem to recoil as before... moisture or damage, I'll giv'em a lube next time around... (almost knocked my head one time believing they pulled up the door already LOL)
Whatever you do don't put oil on the strut shafts it will knock the seals out in no time.
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#15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 12:14 PM
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Hmph, my hatch is stuck too. Thought it was the cold weather, but it's +8 C in Vancouver today, so there goes that theory...is there a manual release on the inside the hatch?
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#16 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:34 PM
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Not to my knowledge though you could investigate by taking out that access panel in the back door(hatch) lining. That will show you the switch area (as far as I remember) but the "guts" of the locking is done around the bottom of the hatch in the centre.

When I had my Scenic someone broke the rear windscreen and bits of glass dropped into the lock mechanism (it is very similar to the Bs) and this jammed & stopped the hatch opening. I wonder if something small has dropped in & jammed yours.

You will probably have to access all of this by dropping the seats down and working from inside the boot area which will be tricky. You may find that you cannot access the locking part without getting the boot open which is a catch 22 situation.

Please let us know if you find the solution to this one
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#17 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 11:13 AM
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Just had the handle & lock mechanism replaced under warranty (I think the new part might actually be the entire piece above the license plate, including the white license plate lights). For whatever reason, every time it got to around 0 degrees it jammed up - park underground for a few hours and it worked. Anyway, since the replacement it's worked fine.
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#18 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 11:27 AM
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There is some weird "logic" behind the unlocking protocols if, like me, you have programmed your key to open only the driver's door. If you press unlock twice, the hatch opens, but after driving somewhere and stopping once with engine on (for example letting a passenger off) and then stopping again, the hatch won't open without hitting the unlock thing again. Very strange. The multiplex programmers went to town on complicating this function, assuming exactly what the driver would be wanting and in my experience they got it wrong about 33% of the time.

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#19 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 11:37 AM
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-3 degrees here at present was -8 (which is pretty cold for southern UK) yesterday but apart from rear hatch sticking due to lots of ice around the bottom edge of the hatch & rubber seals the unlocking mechanism seems fine.

Hopefully the problem is just a one (or 2 ) off and not a badly designed catch or batch problem. Mine is an 07 /08 model with the "rubbery" release button.

BTW the diesel engine has started faultlessly at these temperatures with a flick of the "key" it starts within a couple of seconds. Barely time for the heaters (glow plugs) to cut in.

Last edited by kdbcom; 12-19-2009 at 11:46 AM.
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#20 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdbcom View Post
Whatever you do don't put oil on the strut shafts it will knock the seals out in no time.
I' thinking silicone based, man. Didn't do it yet...

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