can anyone confirm which lamp does what?
I was checking out a b200t and the rear light seemed kind of odd.
(A) didnt light up, I could not see a bulb inside
(b) didnt light up, I did see a bulb inside
the signal and reverse lamps worked properly
when car is running and the dash switch is "0" the lowbeams and parking lights are on full just like if I turned the switch to on - is this DRL?
I thought DRL were highbeams on half power and no parking lights
all my japanese imports are like this
ps thanks to the owner of the original photo (I stole it to illustrate my question)
Last edited by b200t turbo : 07-23-2008 at 12:10 PM.
The B200 has all parking light on for DRL. What is good about this is that you don't need to open you light at night since they are always on. I use the switch only when I want the fog lights
You are right about the Japanese, only front low beams are on.
You are not supposed to have bulbs in position "a" These are just decorative parts of the lamp lens.
The part "b" is the rear fog light and only lights up on the drivers side of the car. In some countries this is a legal requirement (having only the one). I have read in a very early post on this forum that it is possible to have them both come on. But the poster did not come back with the method. I imagine the lamp units are supplied from the factory with both bulb sockets filled in order that they can be fitted to left & right hand drive vehicles. It does give you a spare on the car in any case.
And yes, you have a spare bulb in the other socket. But to access the socket you have to remove the inner panel on the rear hatch.
I would like to use the B sockets to extend the rearlights, it would give the B broader rearlights like the E-class. Technically it should be possible. Swap the foglamp for a dual bulp and run wires from the rearlights to the B sockets. But I am unsure how the CAN system would handle the extra current...
You could try LED lights or even fit a relay. LED lights are probablythe easiest option I use these in the trailer board that I fit on the back of my rear bike rack (for carrying a wheelchair)
Didn't mean to hijack your post Dennis, we must have posted about the same time.
And yes, you have a spare bulb in the other socket. But to access the socket you have to remove the inner panel on the rear hatch.
I would like to use the B sockets to extend the rearlights, it would give the B broader rearlights like the E-class. Technically it should be possible. Swap the foglamp for a dual bulp and run wires from the rearlights to the B sockets. But I am unsure how the CAN system would handle the extra current...
I like the idea of making the A/B lights more useful too
I had a look at the interior of the hatch - how does the rear panel come off?
Does one start by prying open the access panels? is there a trick to getting them off?
where do we get service manuals?
Last edited by b200t turbo : 07-08-2008 at 10:06 AM.
Removing the panel (I think this is kdbcom's text, it aint mine) :
Step 1:
Remove the top 2 (top of the glass) panels first by pulling at the middle
where both pieces join. PULL IN THE MIDDLE FIRST because they are overlapping
only by plastic tabs that can easily break. Once the middle section comes off, you
can start pulling either side. The clips are metal prongs which are easy to pull out
without risk of breakage.
Step 2:
Once the top panels comes off, leaving only the bottom panel. Peek in
the two side corners where the top panels and bottom panels meet. You will find
a button-clip on either side. Use a screwdriver to pop the button-pin out and pull
the clip from the panel.
Step 3:
You will notice on the bottom panel there is a square access panel (rear wiper
motor) that can be removed. You need to remove this to make things easier in the
next step. Be very careful removing this panel because it is held by plastic tabs that
is easy to break. There are 8 or 10 tabs sorrounding the panel. Use a small
screwdriver wrap with tape and pry it out. It should come out vertically.
Step 4:
This is where you might break some clips. Mercedes uses white 4-prong
anchor type plastic clips, which are very hard to pop out. You need to use plastic
pry bars to pop them out, even then I broke a couple. But, it only cost me a $1
per clip at the dealership. There are about 8 clips, start from the top and work
your way from left to right, top to bottom (bottom being the hatch lock). You can
use the middle openning you made in step 3 to see where the clips are.
Step 5:
Once you have all the clips popped out, you should be able to drop the
panel enough to pop the reverse light casing to change the reverse light. You
will also notice that the panel will not come off all the way, beause the hatch
handle and lock tabs still have to removed. I didn't bother doing it since I was
able to accomplish the job without doing so and probably save a few more
clips.
No not guilty either must be one of the Canadian guys as he mentions $1. Will the author please stand up for a bow. Looks a good write up on the procedure, well found Dennis
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