I can't stand the extended time for service B so I went and bought a filter and some synth oil (5/30 quaker- mobil 1 is only for the handbuild AMG engines said dealer) but can't find the filter location .... nothing in the handbook either .... help, please
cheers, guenter
ps, I guess it's obvious to everyone else since a search turned up nothing
If you review the post on "check your oil level now" all will become obvious.
The oil filter is at back of engine at fire wall and look way down.
15"s of extension to get socket on large plastic nut(1+1/16" or 27mm socket). 25 Nm(17 or 18 ft/lb) of torque because everything is plastic. and not very tight.
Good luck!! It's quite easy after you've done it once. DEVOURS
Thank you Devours for showing some light on me. I ordered several things from Germanparts.ca and some tools/equipment from Amazon.
Today I received the oil socket 27mm. Fits perfectly! Now to fulfill the rest of the procedure to reach the filter cap, what are the other tools I need to get, besides this 27 mm socket.
I know you have mentioned 15''s extension. Will it be 3/8 extension? what about the Wrench rachet and universal socket?
If you review the post on "check your oil level now" all will become obvious.
The oil filter is at back of engine at fire wall and look way down.
15"s of extension to get socket on large plastic nut(1+1/16" or 27mm socket). 25 Nm(17 or 18 ft/lb) of torque because everything is plastic. and not very tight.
Good luck!! It's quite easy after you've done it once. Devours
Devours, thanks for that. I'm off to Canadian Tire tomorrow to get myself a torque wrench.... been wanting one for some time anyway. I assume the car doesn't have to be lifted to drain the oil. What's your experience? I've never had to lift a car before to do that.... I'm guessing it could be a tight fit though. kdbcom was kind enough to send a detailed picture of where the filter is.... should be a snap compared to trying to get the filter off my 300E where I could 'never' find a filter wrench to fit onto the Bosch filters and always ended up having to drive a screwdriver through the can and then turn it.
Hi Guenter,
Depends on how you want to drain the old oil out.
The photos in the " check your oil now " posting show you how I do it.
To access the drain plug, you have to get up on the ramps or lift the B a bit.
I wish I new how to get the shop pics up to this forum.
At least we have a dedicated group here to make it all work.:thumbsup:
What Bill's pic doesn't show is the small "0" ring that fits in the groove in the plastic nut which is molded into, and part of the plastic canister.
This small "0" ring grabs the socket and holds the canister on while your lifting everything out.
It shows age and is included in the new oil filter box and should be changed out. Please remember that 25 Nm or 18 ft/lbs is very little torque.
You should thread it on by hand while holding the long extension and only apply the little torque at the very end.:thumbsup:
The drain plug becomes very obvious when you're under and looking. It's in the middle back of the oil pan and has a small copper washer showing which bolt to remove. It has a long fine thread. Good luck!!
Yes indeed I'd like to second that and, moreover, thanks to you as well for your kind help. The pic for removing the oil filter is very helpful.
I've meanwhile bought all the neccessary tools and wil do an oil change this weekend. I've thought of the topsiders before, but like Devours, like the idea of draining from the bottom. Probably from my VW days when all kinds of grey sludge came out and/or was deposited on the metal disk removed for the oil change at the bottom of the sump.
thanks and best wishes, guenter 👍
ps called the dealer and asked what would happen in case of a engine problem if they didn't do the oil change. Very evasive answer (eg, what if you put the filter on incorrectly - to which I point out that I've been doing oil changes when he was still in diapers without any problems so far). anyone know the upshot? I've got a feeling that as long as you can prove using MB filters and doing oil changes on time the warranty has got to apply. Anyone in canada know?
If you are changing the oil on time or earlier than specified you should be OK as long as the engine problem was not caused by negligent work such as improperly installing the drain plug or filter or overfilling the oil sump or using substandard oil.
I would keep the receipts for the oil and filter purchases and record the dates of changes.
I would not worry unnecessarily about damage to the car engine and warranty. The possibility of you doing any thing wrong and Mercedes actually tracing it back to you are very slim. Use a genuine filter and they will never know some else changed the oil. You probably will use better oil than the dealer and take greater care in installing the filter.
The cost of having the dealer do an extra oil change between services is a ridiculous price. Mercedes tries to create an aura of mystery around servicing their cars. Some of the independent shops specializing in European cars also try to cash in on it as well. A local shop quoted me $190 Cdn to change the oil in my B 200, this did not include tax or environmental levies.
Devours has been doing his,👍 and his engine seems to get him everywhere with great fuel economy.
Since this will be your first time maybe you could time it and report back as to the final cost. I am sure you will get faster with time.
Guenter,
If you thread the canister on by hand(with the extensions and socket) , you will feel it thread on very nicely. Telling you that nothing is cross-threaded and then a final little torque.(a touch of oil on the new large "0" ring)
I did my first oil change without any pic.or direction and like you I searched for that damn filter.(and drain plug)
As you and Bill have said, everything at the dealer is kept "top secret".
Do it once and you realize it's a breeze.:thumbsup:
thanks for the reassurance te changing the oil, I know I will do it better than the guy at the dealership. The point which concerns me and I was trying to address is that my Service Booklet will not have the "Stamps" in it showing that the car has been correctly serviced. This may give MB an excuse to void warranty, although I agree it'll be highly unlikely that it's entirely unlikely of a problem.... but you never know.
But reading between the lines, although the service manager didn't come right out and say this, is that DEVOURS is probably right on. Save the receipts for the items bought etc and that should take care of any proofs that might be required on the off-chance of problems.
In the vein it also suprised me that the first service on my car was done at 20k km.... sure would have thought there'd be an oil change after a few thousand km. But the dealership assures me that the about 20k km service is the 'first' one. I sure hope they aren't having me on.
Guenter, that will change, the new setting is a countdown from 15,000 km until the next service.
I did get the (full ??)B inspection and payed dearly for that stupid stamp, just to protect the warranty on the off-chance that something really does go wrong and you need that stamp to show that the "official" service was done.
Changing the oil between services can't do you any harm.:thumbsup:
No universal is needed because it's straight down to the filter cap.
Carefully loosen the cap and then lift the cap and attached filter up and out. Keep everything as clean as possible and change the 2 supplied "O" rings. You will have to pick the original off of the cap.
Sometimes the small "O" ring has fallen apart and is gone from the cap nut...so you just have to apply the small "O" ring onto the middle of the nut in the slot provided. The small "O" ring just holds the socket in place to help you lift the cap out.
Pop the filter out of the cap and replace it with the new filter and make sure that the large "O" ring is in the proper groove in the cap for a proper seal..
Feed the new filter and cap down into place and hand tighten to make sure that it's not a crossthread ..and finish off with that small torque..using your ratchet..or torque wrench..
I use a 13mm wrench or socket to remove the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan. "(look for the one 13mm nut with a copper washer on it)".
Don't spill the oil as it rushes out. I keep the plug almost in the hole to reduce the fast oil flow as it drains..
Each time it get's a bit easier to do..
Remember to have secure jack stands in place if working under the B..Those great rubber jacking pads come in very handy when working under our B..
Pics are great and welcome here..!!..and hope that this first oil change goes smoothly for you..!!
Thank you so much for this Devours. All the package arrived today such as Mityvac to pump out oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter ( I thought it's about the time to change these filters too)
, oil cap socket 27mm and the oil, TOTAL QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W30. It's like service B without the brake service. I still haven;t got the wrench rachet and the 15" extension.
I ordered engine oil (TOTAL QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W30) and filter from Germanparts.ca. Cost me $61+$15 shipping+ $8 tax.
Filter's price from Dealer comes around $219 plus tax, which I didn't care to buy it. Once the weather in quebec started warm a little bit, I am going to change my oil. I will try to post some pictures. Thank you DEVOURS for the great help.
Filter's price from Dealer comes around $219 plus tax, which I didn't care to buy it. Once the weather in quebec started warm a little bit, I am going to change my oil. I will try to post some pictures. Thank you DEVOURS for the great help.
Wow, $219 dealer price must be for either all parts involved in a B service, or the price of an oil change. Because that is way too much for just an oil filter. The oil filter from Mercedes is about $11 (comes with 2 o-rings), air filter is about $40 and charcoal filter is about $60. Don't forget to get a copper washer for the oil drain plug. Mercedes will usually give this to you free, but someone on the forum was once charged $1 or something ridiculous. If you are pumping the oil out, then you don't need the washer and don't need to get under the car.
If the 27mm socket you got was a 3/8" socket head, then you need a 3/8" extension and a 3/8 ratchet. If you don't have a 15 inch extension, you can use a combination of extensions until you get the right length. I use two 8" extensions and it works fine. As Devours said, loosen oil filter cap and then pull straight up (so you don't drip oil on hoses and firewall). If you have a turbo, there is a section that is a tight squeeze, where the filter cap will touch snuggly between firewall and a hose. Pull out the paper oil filter, put on both new o-rings (on the cap) and put in new filter. Place a bead of oil onto the larger new o-ring gasket, then slide straight down and hand tighten the filter cap. Add a 1/4 turn by ratchet for tightness.
The air filter is in the box at the top of the engine, 4 screws, i think. If you have the turbo, then you need to pull off the plastic engine cover first, but be careful, not to loose the plastic grommets or else your cover will be making some irritating diesel engine like clicking noises. The combination filter (charcoal) is located under the cowl a the windshield base, just open it up and swap the filter.
All sounds pretty easy. For future reference, you can purchase oil from anywhere, just make sure it is Synthetic and rated MB 229.3 or 229.5. Some on the forum like to use Mobil 1, and that oil is labelled for European Cars. Have fun!
I can't remove the oil filter cap. It;s super tight. Not sure whether I am using the right wrench. I am using the regular rachet wrench. Do I need to a torque rachet rachet?
I am trying to unscrew anticlockwise. Cabin filter and Engine filter are successfully replaced.
pushing really hard anticlockwise. Nothing is moving. I can't believe this.
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