I would suspect that either the pad cylinders may be sticking or siezed on the defective side or the pads are not moving freely.
Don't do the process below without the assistance of a reliable mechanic.I am just outlining a procedure that may or may not work in your case.
You would need to remove the wheel cylinder assembly and really clean out the part where the pads slide (side to side) making sure that they can slide easily. You can get a special Brake grease these days to thinly smear on the sliding surface.
To check the wheel cylinder movement is a bit tricky, requires 2 people & involves operating the brakes without the pads in ( but with a block of wood or metal to stop the cylinders from coming out of their bores). And a G cramp to squeeze them back in again. This needs to be done several times taking the cylinder nearly to the full travel of its bore .
I've managed to get a several 'sticky' cylinders working properly again this way but it is not for the faint hearted and you need to be a reasonably competent mechanic to undertake this job. The assembly needs to be relatively new (as yours must be) as wear ridges can develop inside the bore and damage the seals if taken to the full travel of the cylinder.
You would be need to bleed the brakes again afterwoods.
The above is just a rough guide to the principle of what needs to be done. A better bet would be to have the whole wheel cylinder assembly replaced but knowing the price of M/B parts this would be expensive.
NOTE
Bear in mind the safety aspect of working on brakes if in any doubt DON'T touch them.
I have been hunting ebay for one but no one seems to reply to my emails asking if it covers the B class.
I gave up trying to find a B manual. But I did order the latest ebay manual from Tim Oleary in the UK.(tim_o_leary@hotmail.co.uk) He listed his as the latest, showing all Classes, but no B in his listing. But there it was when I opened it up(for a short time anyway).
All B class models were in the 3 DVD's I received.
But in turning the computer into a server, I couldn't get on the internet anymore!!
So I'm back to square one, chatting with you all. Any suggestions would be great.
I'm thinking of installing it on a laptop that I can plug into our printer for copies when I want. But now I have to buy a laptop, just for the manual!
Last edited by Derek Lecours : 10-20-2007 at 08:58 AM.
I missed him before he does not show up on a generic B class search & when I looked up B class manuals I got about 1200 entries. Still I hope I am sorted now thanks.
I gave up trying to find a B manual. But I did order the latest ebay manual from Tim Oleary in the UK.(tim_o_leary@hotmail.co.uk) He listed his as the latest, showing all Classes, but no B in his listing. But there it was when I opened it up(for a short time anyway).
All B class models were in the 3 DVD's I received.
But in turning the computer into a server, I couldn't get on the internet anymore!!
So I'm back to square one, chatting with you all. Any suggestions would be great.
I'm thinking of installing it on a laptop that I can plug into our printer for copies when I want. But now I have to buy a laptop, just for the manual!
Derek about the "server" problem.... in my pc works just fine.. I just followed the instructions in the info file included and worked ok. I have to admit that its a "heavy" application but it works without problems for me. PM me if you stuck to a specific step so maybe i can help you parallel to mine...
I would suspect that either the pad cylinders may be sticking or siezed on the defective side or the pads are not moving freely.
Don't do the process below without the assistance of a reliable mechanic.I am just outlining a procedure that may or may not work in your case.
You would need to remove the wheel cylinder assembly and really clean out the part where the pads slide (side to side) making sure that they can slide easily. You can get a special Brake grease these days to thinly smear on the sliding surface.
To check the wheel cylinder movement is a bit tricky, requires 2 people & involves operating the brakes without the pads in ( but with a block of wood or metal to stop the cylinders from coming out of their bores). And a G cramp to squeeze them back in again. This needs to be done several times taking the cylinder nearly to the full travel of its bore .
I've managed to get a several 'sticky' cylinders working properly again this way but it is not for the faint hearted and you need to be a reasonably competent mechanic to undertake this job. The assembly needs to be relatively new (as yours must be) as wear ridges can develop inside the bore and damage the seals if taken to the full travel of the cylinder.
You would be need to bleed the brakes again afterwoods.
The above is just a rough guide to the principle of what needs to be done. A better bet would be to have the whole wheel cylinder assembly replaced but knowing the price of M/B parts this would be expensive.
NOTE
Bear in mind the safety aspect of working on brakes if in any doubt DON'T touch them.
Keith THANKS.. this is a very useful guide. But i am afraid to touch my brakes myself!... Probably i will wait for some kilometers more to see what happens to the new disc...and if i have the same i will have some words with my dealer again.. (and again...and again )..
).. 
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