So has anyone else purchased an OE oil filter for their petrol B class or done their own oil change besides myself? I'm asking because I don't think that the oil filter is good enough for approx. 23,000 kms as indicated on my B. Cheers, Derek
I'm dragging this post back to the top because of the new oil posting. As I've noted before, there is no service 'A' in the CDN B class of Dec.05. After my 2nd oil change and gentle driving, my service B is now indicating my first official oil change to be done at more than 25,000kms. I'm still not sure how this oil change is calculated. Is it simply counting the accumulative RPM from the beginning or is it reading the oil or both? Anyway, for all of you, please buy the OE oil filter from the dealer and look at it. Do you think this filter will protect your engine for 20,000 kms and very old oil? I don't!! But I'm sure your dealer will be very happy to rebuild your engine in approx. 6 years at a reasonable price.
Last edited by Derek Lecours : 10-11-2007 at 06:23 AM.
On some MB models the oil contamination state is sampled by a sensor in the sump. Not sure that this applies to the B but I think there is a fair chance.
With modern synthetic oils, say Mobil 1, if you were able to filter out all contamination they would have indefinite life. The oil itself doesn't "age" it becomes useless because of the combustion particles held in suspension within it.
MB trucks have 100,000km oil intervals admittedly with large oil tanks and filters.
In the UK Mobil 1 is retail £12 per litre. At that price I am in no hurry to change more often than the Assyst message. I do, however, top up to the maximum mark frequently to keep oil condition and therefore oil change interval as long as possible. It will be a dead heat between the mileage message and the two year default for service.
My car skipped the A service and went straight to indicating a B service from new, I thought this was odd but now read above that this maybe programmed in.
Make sure you don't go too near that upper level mark as overfilling can cause oil seals to go & also problems with the catalytic convertor.
When I had my last service the car came back with the oil just past the half way mark on the dipstick, I complained saying it should have been topped right up. The car went in again and they actually drained some oil OUT. I complained again and they stated about the problems due to overfilling. They did give me a 1 litre top up bottle of oil however.
Either they are making a bit by not filling right up (at about £10-£12 a litre it soon mounts up ) or M/B are **** scared about damage being done to the engine. Work out your own conclusion.
Check your service booklet under ‘regular checks’. It’s recommended that you check the oil, coolant, brake fluid and windshield washing system levels regularly…i.e., weekly, when refueling or before any long journey. It is also recommended that you check the tire pressure every other week.
The FSS PLUS service indicator informs the driver when the next vehicle maintenance service is due. It evaluates engine temp, oil level, vehicle speed, distance driven and the time elapsed since the last service.
When I bought my car I was told that the time between oil changes is about 10,000 miles (16,093 km) or one year. I purchased my car with 8,013 miles (12,896 km) on it. We had the dealer do the A service (that is what they called it) at that time. And now almost a year to date I did the B service at 19,332 miles (31,112 km) that means I went 11,319 miles (18,216 km) before it needed the oil changed.
And yes it is a teeny tiny filter; I really thought that I had been sold the wrong part because it is so small.
After completing my service B, I was informed that the next services, "D" will now be calculated on distance only. ( ie: 15,000 kms ) If I went by the on board computer, it had calculated my service at 25,000 kms and that's crazy!!
If you're planning to change your oil on the 200 CDI, it should be a breeze.
The oil filter should be right at the top of the engine.
The black domed plastic cap, at left of center is where your filter is.
It should say to torque to 25 Nm on the cap.(the non diesel says to, and they look the same) Remember it's all plastic and 25 Nm is only 18 ft/lbs.
Drain the oil from the bottom drain plug.
The diesel is easier than the B200, because the non-diesel is located down behind the top of the engine and tricky to get at. Doc: 19.05.04 shows the diesel filter cap as # 1(Keith).
I've changed my oil a couple of times and it is easy to do!!
Hope this is of help and if you need more help please use your decoder rings that I've supplied!!
I go to the little box at the bottom left which requests the group #. I would type in "19" only with no other items selected. Hit the select tab at the bottom and you should go directly to group 19. As you have said, too many items come up. Make sure no other search items or bars are highlighted or dark. On the right side of your screen, you must select most of the boxes to find info from the left searches. Searching single words also works. It's dig,dig,dig and finally you get the hang of it. So often it says " no documents found" !!! Try again with another word or group of words. Good luck and if necessary contact me by e...
Keith, have you found the black domed cap with 25 Nm on it at the front of your engine??
Last edited by Derek Lecours : 11-28-2007 at 02:13 PM.
Yes found that on the l/h side of the engine under a large air tube.
Looks fairly easy to change the oil filter. I'd rather have the maintainence / service parts readily accessible than say things like the starter motor which are usually pretty reliable & longlasting I would say that I havn't had to change a starter motor, on one of my own cars, in over 20 years (and Iv'e had quite a number of cars in that time).
It would appear from the manual that for virtually any job they put the car up on the body ramp these days and everything seems to be done from underneath. This was the same with my Scenic's as well. They are definitely made for garage repairing only now.
Linear Mode
