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Old 01-28-2008, 08:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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That's the problem with OE from MB, the price is always outrageous.
But a good retrofit with proper fit and focus would be nice and affordable.
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I totally agree. I might try it and post the result. If I have to go back to halogens, I will.

Anthony
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Old 01-28-2008, 01:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The projector type lamps of the B-Class are perfectly suitable for an upgrade to DIY Xenon lights. Try Google for Pilot-Xenon. And remember that yuo also need something extra to fool the lamps-diagnostic.

And we would like some pictures of the upgrade
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Old 01-28-2008, 01:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lucky for me, I have no bulb malfunction warning. A headlight burnt out a couple of weeks ago and I got no warning. That got me thinking on the upgrade.

Anthony
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Old 03-08-2008, 05:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill F View Post
Hi

Are you thinking of buying an after market HID kit and replacing your bulbs??

The replacement kits do not provide proper reflectors to aim the light. The reflectors in a filament lighting system can not be used with a gas discharge bulb. The focal points are to different. Use a search engine and find out why. If you are looking for the HID effect there are H7 bulbs around that can mimic the colour, usually with shorter life expectancies and sometimes less light.

The HID kits might appear brighter but the light is not concentrated on the road and can be dangerous to other cars.

Bill
This is not entirely true....well it is entirely true.....sort of LOL

No but seriously, first let me say this one important thing in caps so as to not confuse anyone....WHAT YOU SAID IS NOT FALSE, THERE IS A 100% TRUTH TO THE FOCAL POINT ISSUE YOU BROUGHT UP.

Oh and while Wikepedia is great, don't forget it's a public entry that is not verified by anyone.....the accuracy of the information is only as good as it's source.

Now with that out of the way, the bulb (fillament, gas, hay, copper...doesn't matter) doesn't create the focal point or light scatter for that bulb....the reflector and design of the housing creates that. The bulb itself emits the light in a 360 degree pattern (except for low beams which, as we know, has a metallic paint on the front to prevent the light being emitted directly forward)

Now with that out of the way, keep in mind that some of the housings, on certain model and year Mercedes are the same housing that was used wether or not the HID option was installed in that car. And this is true for other makes, and is especially true for cars that are 3 or more years old that were offered with a halogen or HID headlight option but did not use a projector style headlight. That housing and reflector is the same for Halogen or HID options.

The problem you speak of will occur more that if were purchased without HID lights use a non projector type housing, but use a projector style housing when the HID option is installed. And this is because of the lumens (light intensity) increase in HID's. Because the typical HID system is somwhere around 5500 degrees Kelvin, it's light intensity (lumens) are around 3x that of a conventional Halogen bulb they have enough light intensity to utilize the more focused beam that the projector housing offers. It has nothing to do with the bulb, and THE PROPER HID system will have little to NO noticable light loss effects.

If you want the real answer, it has more to do with this rather than your headlight housing or bulb type:

THE NUMBER ONE REASON AN AFTERMARKET KIT HAS PISS POOR LIGHTING IS NOT DUE TO THE HOUSING, IT IS CAUSED BY THIS:

A. There are three basic versions of and HID ballast available, for aftermarket use: Low Grade (non digital) generally costing sub $300 for an entire kit, quality grade (non digital) generally ranging $300 - $400 for an entire kit. **a kit is: wires, bulbs, and ballasts that does not include a headlight housing**

both of the above mentioned kits only match a factory HID system to about 80% for low grade and 90% for quality grade

and the third, which most people are either not aware exists or don't want to spend the extra $150 which is a DIGITAL ballast.

And a digital ballast is the only type that will match a factory system...reason is simple, factory systems use digital ballasts. (they are far more reliable, have less failure problems because they have no voltage spike at turn on, and maintain a constant voltage to the bulb where non digital have a varying current due to the way it makes and stores the 20,000 volts required to ignite the Xenon gas in a true HID bulb, typical Halogen ignite on the 12v the car produces)

Oh and add in the fact that most people, let's be honest, who are buying aftermarket kits are buying them because all the "cool" cars have them....so they want to look "cool". And so, as I'm sure you have noticed, alot of people buy the bluer tinted versions offered in aftermarket kits.

***THIS IS IMPORTANT TO ANYONE RESEARCHING HID KITS***
HID kits come in several different temperatures, these temperatures are measured in "degrees Kelvin". Degrees Kelvin is not so much a temperature as it is a light wavelength/spectrum. HID's use these ranges generally 3000k (some makers 4000k) 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 10000k and 12000k. 3000k is close to yellow, and 12000k is almost purple.

Daylight (natural sunlight at high noon), which if you don't know, is what HID's are designed to replicate, is measured at aprox 5500k. And most people are buying 8000k kits because they think blue is cooler, better, brighter...I don't know why, but 80% of all kits sold are 8000k kits. Factory kits are about 5000k - 5300k. A good non digital ballast at 5000k is only 90% matching to true 5000k, digital ballast will produce a much closer number 99.9% accurate.

READ THIS AND REMEMBER IT, LUMENS ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL TO DEGREES KELVIN, SO THE HIGHER THE NUMBER DEGREES KELVIN THE LESS LUMENS PRODUCED.

WHEN PURCHASING HID KITS, IF YOU WANT HID QUALITY LIGHTING DO NOT GO BELOW 4000K AND DO NOT EXCEDE 6000K OR YOUR LIGHT WILL SUFFER (IF YOU WANT THE PROPER LIGHTING USE THE 5000K KIT), AND REMEMBER JUST BECUASE THE LESS DEGREES KELVIN THE BRIGHTER (MORE LUMENS) THE LIGHT DOES NOT MEAN GO ALL THE WAY DOWN TO 3000K Don't forget what I said about color of the light in relation to degrees Kelvin, if you get too far into the yellow (3000k) while the light yes is brighter, the human eye doesn't see light very well at that yellow spectrum.

B. HID's do not work well in older model cars, and sorry for all the Zinger cars but they don't work well in all the kid's Honda's and Acura's from 1995 that they want to make look like a luxury car....or a race car...hell I can't figure out which one they want LOL. And this is mostly due to the fact that the housings are cheap and aren't designed to focus light properly....I mean for christ's sake if you are putting a $400 lighting system in a $12,000 civic don't expect $30,000 Mercedes results. Simple economics, cheap car cheap parts, expensive parts can only work as good as the component they are installed in.



Or use my solution, save up the $2k and buy the factory projector housing, HID bulbs and ballast from Mercedes and you won't have any problems.

HTH
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Mr Wonderful,
That was the best description I've read yet and yes, I will remember and put that digital info to use.
Thanks for the mini-HID course! Derek

ps:Are there different quality of HID bulbs?
pps: Quality to me, is a similar result to OE, and longevity including great road illumination. Can we have it all?
I would be interested in a 5000k to 5500k installation as you recommended.

Last edited by Derek Lecours : 03-09-2008 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Hey Derek,
I'm going to be trying it again at a different shop, Brendan from Urban Performance says he has a wiring harness that will fix the problem with the B. The good thing is it includes a relay which will protect the stock wiring and they have the 4300K bulbs. Install is set for March 19, I keep you posted.

Anthony
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Good luck Anthony and I can't wait to see your results and bright lights shining in our B class Gallery!!
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:56 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Anthony,
Seeing as our Canadian B's have all lights on all of the time; that means that the xenon's will be on at all times and now become your DRL's also.
I'm not sure that I want xenon's burning during the day and at night.
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Old 03-17-2008, 03:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey Derek,

It's kinda too bad about the DRL, but I think it's the same with some vehicles with factory xenons (I'm not sure but I've seen some cars with HID on during the day on models that would have an option for HID's. Just the other day I saw a new MB C300 with the HIDs on). Maybe someone on this forum can confirm if the B with OEM xenons have them on all the time. HID's are supposed to have a longer life than Halogens but who knows. I did make sure that I would be able to buy replacement bulbs and ballasts if they burnt out. The price doesn't seem to be that bad about $100, it's a little steep but at least I am aware of the price brfore hand. I have heard of people being able to switch the DRLs to the fogs, but I don't know if that would be available on the B.

Anthony

Last edited by A.N. : 03-17-2008 at 03:33 PM.
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