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Old 02-28-2006, 10:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: B200 CDI SE
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Stuck Alloy Wheels.

Hi All

If you have Alloy Wheels on your B Class check that you can remove them before you break down with a puncture on dark wet country road.

My car is just over 4 months old & even on a flat surface & with the car on an axle stand I could not remove mine.

I contacted M/B and they arranged to have the wheels removed at the dealers & refitted using a copper based grease/paste.

Mine are the 10 spoke sports wheels but I would recommend that any Alloy Wheels should be checked.

You have been warned !!!!!!!

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Old 03-26-2006, 07:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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RE: Stuck Alloy Wheels.

the steel wheels of our Opel did that last week, thus only one sides brake pads were changed....

u can smash them with a 5 kilo sledge all day long, the they stay on like welded.....

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Old 03-26-2006, 10:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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RE: Stuck Alloy Wheels.

Quote:
kdbcom - 2/28/2006 6:23 PM

Hi All

If you have Alloy Wheels on your B Class check that you can remove them before you break down with a puncture on dark wet country road.

My car is just over 4 months old & even on a flat surface & with the car on an axle stand I could not remove mine.

I contacted M/B and they arranged to have the wheels removed at the dealers & refitted using a copper based grease/paste.

Mine are the 10 spoke sports wheels but I would recommend that any Alloy Wheels should be checked.

You have been warned !!!!!!!
Was it the nuts that were seized or the wheels themselves?
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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RE: Stuck Alloy Wheels.

It was the wheels that stuck the bolts were easy to remove
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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RE: Stuck Alloy Wheels.

I just put the default OEM tires on My B last week - I bought it in December so I had the dealer put winter tires on steel rims on. These came off OK, I guess I will see this fall when I put the Winters back on .....
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here is a method for removing sticking wheels.
Back off each wheel nut( or bolt) 1 turn & no more than 1 turn.
Now, jack up your car and see if your wheel can easily be removed. If not then try this.
Lower the car on to all wheels again. You still have 1 wheel a little loose remember.
On a flat surface move the car back and forth 1 car length only a few times.
Now lift it up again and see if the wheel is free. It should be, but if not then back off the nuts( or bolts) on the offending wheel one half more turn giving you a total of 1 and one half turns total per nut.(or bolt)
Roll the car again but don't drive it like that, because it could be dangerous.
Remember the wheels have 8 to 11 full threads holding each nut.( or bolt)
Good Luck !

Last edited by Derek Lecours : 10-19-2007 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Seeing as we're again on the subject of sticking wheels. Maybe this will help someone in need.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Offcourse Derek is right, that is the best way to remove a stuck wheel.
The wheel is stick because when the alloy oxidizes (rust) the molecules (combined with oxygen) become bigger.
Just like you sometimes have to use a blowtorch to heat something to make it fit, after that it's stuck like a rock.
This proces is somewhat similar.
But then again, I don't even have a spare tire
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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It's far better though to stop it getting stuck in the first place and the greasing process will do this & also to some extent help prevent the corrosion.
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Old 10-19-2007, 01:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deheld View Post
Of course Derek is right, that is the best way to remove a stuck wheel.
The wheel is stuck because when the alloy oxidizes (rust) the molecules (combined with oxygen) become bigger.
Just like you sometimes have to use a blowtorch to heat something to make it fit, after that it's stuck like a rock.
This process is somewhat similar.
But then again, I don't even have a spare tire
Here in Quebec we've become experts with sticking wheels. Even between seasonal wheel changes, our wheels are often stuck. The salt really attacks the surfaces and welds them together. Applying a lube between the surfaces is the best solution. Just make sure it doesn't creep to the discs or other stopping surfaces with the centrifugal forces being applied. A touch on the treaded bolts isn't a bad idea either, but here there are supposed rules against anything applied to the wheel bolt threads. I guess the authorities are worried that the bolts might back off on there own. From my experience the nuts or bolts only get tighter with time.

ps: Dennis, don't you have a space-saver spare???

Last edited by Derek Lecours : 10-20-2007 at 06:44 AM.
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