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Photo DIY- 722.905 "7G Tronic" NAG 2+ Transmission Oil/Filter Change

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120K views 64 replies 26 participants last post by  TOLW221  
#1 ·
Greets, I know I'm not a W221 owner, but I had "accidentally" Stumbled into you guys' Turf earlier today, and saw there were a few requests for a "How To" on the 722.9 7G Tronic NAG 2+ Transmissions, so I thought I would just throw it out there for you..


As a very Clear Preface... this job is not for the average DIY'er. It requires a "Significant" number of Tools, including the STAR Computer, access to the LATEST WIS, which is AN ABSOLUTE **MUST** IN ORDER TO CORRECTLY ADJUST THE FLUID LEVEL!!!

Also, I will be *CLEAR*, there are MULTIPLE VARIATIONS of these Transmissions, you MUST VERY VERY CAREFULLY Research you exact Transmission, to ascertain WHICH procedure to use, and which Transmission FLUID to use... the Latest uses the New 236.15 Spec Fluid which is BLUE!!!!! This Fluid is ***NOT*** Back-Compatible!!!

This Post is for a 722.905 NAG2+ Box in a 2011 E350 (212.056), which was Built AFTER the Latest/Greatest Update which was on June 21, 2010, so all vehicles after this date "Should" have the Green Overflow Pipe, and Beveled Pan. Again, *YOU MUST BE 100% POSITIVE* about your Transmission prior to starting the job.

ANOTHER *HUGE* CAVEAT!!- *DO NOT ATTEMPT THE "I'LL TAKE A LASER TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENT OF THE PAN" TRICK TO GET THE OIL TEMPERATURE!!!" I have a nice, High-End Fluke Laser Thermometer, and what I was measuring at the Pan, and what STAR was Reporting??? It was OFF by a much as 10 C!!!! ***YOU MUST BE EXACTLY ON TARGET TEMP TO DO THIS JOB!!!***, and the Car must be **LEVEL**, so you will have to have it on 4 equal Ramps/Jack-Stands.

As you know, there is NO Dipstick to check the Fluid Level, and you "Pump" the Oil *UP* via the Drain-Hole. Instead, one needs to bring the oil Temp to a PRECISE temperature, and "Visually" evaluate the Flow of Oil out the Stand Pipe. What an IDIOTIC way to do an automotive job!!! My "moderate flow" or "Drip pattern" may be waaaay different than the next guy's interpretation. It's quite a "Joke" in my mind... BUT!! You must change the fluid in these boxes... so you're STUCK!!

Over-Maintaining me... I'm doing the Service at 30,000 Miles, instead of the Recommended 39,000 Mile interval.

In summary, I Intended this post to be "ENTERTAINMENT VALUE ONLY!!!!!!!" If you Don't have the Proper Set-Up, DON'T DO THE JOB!!
 

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#15 · (Edited)
G-AMG that was a great tutorial thank you so much for sharing.

I have a few of questions as I'm about to do my 722.902 in my 2009 W204 C320CDI (V6 3.0L turbo diesel). It has the bevel on the rear of the oil pan but I'm not sure if it has the green or white overflow pipe.

You say the oil pan bolts must be replaced as the pan has aluminum stretch bolts. At 4Nm I struggle to see how anything would stretch. I was thinking I could replace with standard automotive Allen head bolts if they really have to be replaced.

The other question I had was about the old oil still in the lines to the oil cooler. I'm assuming there's probably a litre or so of oil left in there or is the design such that that oil will drain out anyway?

I've just done the auto service on my Vito Van with the 722.682 transmission and it was simple to flush the lines to the thermo control valve and the lines from there to the oil cooler. I did a good thorough job using Fuchs 4134 MB 236.14 ATF fluid and took my time. It was like driving a new vehicle afterwards.

With that transmission the level is set with the ATF between 70 and 90 degrees C. I used a DMM with the temperature probe taped to the oil pan with a piece of insulating foam over it. Other members of this forum have said the temperature reading from this method was always within a couple of degrees of the STAR reading.

So I'm now keen to tackle my W204. Any comments would be appreciated.

We get gouged by MB dealers down under. All the leather lounges, high end coffee machines and glitz in the dealers premises has to be paid for. I'm not turned on by that at all and hate the over the top displays of conspicuous consumption.

An auto service is close to a $AUD1000. I'm not paying that much of my heard earned. I prefer doing these things myself as I'm convinced I do a better job of it.
 
#7 ·
Great post thanks!!!! I did this on my 740 BMW and it is close in procedure. Just as dumb w/ the temp of fluid, and over fill. I went to home depot and bought a 2 gallon bug sprayer and cut the end off and made an adapter! LOL Worked great. The germans make it harder but it is a must. Thanks for posting, I love doing my own work if able.
 
#14 ·
Sorry for delay seamus2154,
The dealer charged me $375 for the transmission fluid change on my 2008. As I was in for what seems to be my annual service I just told them to change it even though I was only about 36,000 miles. Did not want to do a special trip in just for this.
Michael in Arizona
 
#17 ·
Scott, hey.

If you check the WIS, you will see ther are TWO types of beveled pans, one with th OVAL indentions as in this posting, has the GREEN Riser, and requires the Expensive new 236.15 fluid.
If you have ROUND indentions on the pan, then you should have the WHITE standpipe, which would suggest you have a car built BEFORE June 21, 2010. "IF" this is all correct, then you have the white Pipe, and you can use the CHEAP Shell ATF 134, or other Approved 236.14 fluid.

To answer your question, my Opinion on the minimal fluid present in the oil cooler circut is not worth the time/effort/expense to Chase After. Since I hold to a 30,000 mile interval (on both my 722.9, And 722.6 equiped vehicles), i dont lose any sleep over a few hundred CC's of old fliud.

Remember, the "Standard" Oil change procdure on the post-1999 722.6 transmission (which has NO Torque Converter Drain Plug! - for "production cost savings" per M-B) involves ONLY draining the Pan (circa 5 litres), and calling it a day.

I'm glad you caught the "Minor Detail" regarding the 180 degree angle torque.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the information. The build date is August 2008. I have the bevelled pan with circular indents so it looks like it's the white pipe for me. I've bought some Fuchs ATF4134 which is MB236.14 compliant. My vehicle is nearly at 50,000km (30,500 miles). But it is 5 years old so I'm keen to do the transmission. As you say it's probably not worth getting too worried about the small amount left in the oil cooler. I'll take on board your comments about measuring the oil temperature. I haven't got the STAR system but my WIS is up to 2011 so I've got enough current information.

With my Vito W639 with the 722.682 transmission the WIS said oil temperature to be between 70C and 90C so I used the digital multimeter with it's temperature probed taped to the bottom of the pan with some insulating foam over it. That worked fine for such a temperature range. The transmission drives like a brand new one now. I'm very pleased with the result. I'll put my thinking cap on and see if I can come up with another way. I'll look up the WIS and find out where the temperature sensor is first. I like trying to come up with an improvisation that works. I'll post some information once I've done the work in the next couple of weeks.
 
#18 ·
Oh, P.S.-

IF you have the White Pipe, i think the temperatures for testing are different, so consult you WIS. please be sure you have the most Updated WIS... There have been several Modifications in the parameters over the last few years.

May i also warn you to NOT trust a thermal measurement of the Oil Pan. Like i stated inthe post, i had as much as a 10 Degree Discrepency between my STAR readings, and a high quality Fluke I-R thermometer. Since the volume reading is sooooooo temperature-sensitive... ME, personally, i would ONLY use a STAR/Car Soft et al.
 
#21 ·
I took note of G-AMG's excellent tutorial and did my W204 C320CDI with the 722.902 transmission. It has the bevelled pan and white pipe and is a 45C "overflow" method to set the level. I even made a video as I find so much misinformation about doing this yourself. My thoughts are in the thread link below plus a link to the video. I improvised and came up with an easy way of getting the ATF into the transmission. I think my method of measuring the ATF temperature was also close enough for the overflow method. I also flushed the oil cooler with my own special tool that you can buy for a couple of dollars and drink the contents! The proof is in my results. The car has been transformed!

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204-c-class/1727125-do-yourself-7gtronic-transmission-service.html
 
#33 ·

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#27 · (Edited)
Another Fine DIY by our Buddy G-AMG.

He is making the world go better by informing us !

G-AMG knows I rebuild transmissions, but I have not rebuilt a 722.9, but the repair process is near identical to the 722.6, and it shares many of the internal parts with a few more clutch packs than the 722.6.

The big deal is Mercedes revised the oil pan on the 722.9, and not for the sake of having more oil, see attachment.

Here some Technical data, but it shot over your heads. Just in case you get the urge to rebuild one :grin They are easy, oily messy too.

I got more data, but too large to upload here, PM me

Enjoy,

Martin
 

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#30 ·
Thanks G-AMG for posting this very thorough DIY. Not a difficult job on my 2010 GL550, though two drain pans are needed as the torque converter took forever to drain. I got the larger Motive Power Filler, fits right up to the Assenmacher adapter and made filling the transmission a piece of cake. At 90,000 miles there was some black inside but the fluid really didn't look bad. Will find a long 4mm hex driver and a torque wrench that is somewhat accurate at 4 N-m for next time.
 
#31 ·
G-AMG your laboratory precision and vast collection of actual MBZ specified instruments (and not to mention that steering wheel cover shower cap!) - NEVER ceases to amaze me. Great job!