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2K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  wallyp 
#1 ·
Hello! I have recently added to my vehicle wish list, a 2006 S500 w the AMG package. Its a beautiful dark Grey metallic color and the difference from my 2002 S500, w over 300,000 miles, as this one is at only 90,000, is AMAZING.
I have just a couple straight to the point questions as I begin to start my "Tinkering" phase!!
I don't know why i thought that the 2006 was the beginning of the 221 body style, but as I ran the VIN, it comes back as the same 220..... Does it just start plainly at the 2007 models, or the later months of 2006 for the 221 chassis?
As I brought it home from the where I purchased her, everything was working great! And all of a sudden the drivers side door went dead, as did the back two doors, but the passenger front door is just fine.... I noticed the small panel that has the trunk release and window operation on it, was a bit loose, and i pit it back in place, as it "snapped" back in, and it was after that , everything stopped working. Ive taken the door apart, and traced all wires, and tested all the plug ns, and everything seems to be in the correct place, and secure. Any ideas from anyone would be of great appreciation!!
The last issue was that the battery seemed to be working just fine when I purchased here, then as it sat for a couple weeks as I was moving and other issues, the car would n to start. So i jumped it, and was ok, but the next day dead again! So I tried to jump the b battery again with a new battery charger,, and it just wouldn't start. As well with a truck, jumper cables, but still not luck. After this, she went totally dead! So I went and bought a new battery, put it in after she sat dead for a few days, and after connecting the newness, she started right up and has been just fine now for a few weeks. Could the old battery have something to do with some things not working, such as the doors? Not getting enough power? But now with a new Battery, need a reset on the ECU? Or the main system operation component? Any help again would be much appreciated!! Sorry for such a long request. I will be sharing more to come as I intend to start using the 2002 for its upgrade parts and having some fun with it!!!
Thanks again!!!
Scot
Power Of Choice
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Congrats on the new car! Post some pics !!
Yes the w221 started in the 2007 model year . As is customary, production started in late 2006 as can be identified by the sticker in the drivers door jamb , but the w221 are all 2007 model year cars .

Yes a low battery can cause all kinds of electrical error . You may also have a current drain but you need to start with a good fresh battery .

So you are saying the main drivers side switch panel for the Windows and trunk , located on the drivers side door panel was loose , and when you pushed on it they stopped working ? I would take out the switch panel and check all connections , perhaps have another eBay part ready to swap in if reseating the connections doesn't fix it . The part from your 2002 car is different from the 2006 switches
 
#8 ·
Yes, Tusabes... Now it may just be around the time of me pushing the drivers door lower panel w the trunk release, windows, etc. that the trouble started, but so did the battery situation, around the same time. The only complete door that is functioning properly is the passengers side door. No problems at all. All 3 other doors have no power to them for any functions whats ever..//
So, Totally charged the battery that was working just fine a month earlier, and same issues.... battery drained, and still no functionality on the 3 doors. Replaced it with another battery that was fully charged, not brand new, but from a friend that had an 05 S500 and hail totaled it out a week earlier, dumb luck, huh!!?? It lasted a day and went dead, recharged it and over night went so dead, that it wouldn't even start by jumping or charging.... So got another battery, and made sure i turn off the command center before turning the car off, the ac turned off, anything extra plugged into the cig lighter was pulled out and off. So now i that i did that, the car seems to be holding the charge and not needing a jump, but the three doors are still not operational, even after taking the drivers side door completely apart and making sure everything was in its proper place and all connected.
Ive checked ALL fuses in all 3 places that have anything at all to do with the doors and their functions.
With a Battery at its peak, would there be the need to have the system reset by the Star system?
 
#3 ·
Go to the top of the first page of this Forum, and find the threads that have a light blue background for the titles. Find the one where the title includes "...start here...", and open that thread. This is a compilation of really helpful information, courtesy of Skylaw. If you look thru the sections, you will see a reference to the "resets". Read and perform the necessary resets.
 
#9 ·
Thanks Wally. As I have read, and re wreathe amazing amount of useful info there from Skylaw while putting back together my 2002 S500 that i spent a considerable amount of time from an engine fire restoring her a couple years back, and amazing amount of help from this forum, you being one of them, i should of realized that it was probably in there somewhere:) But not remembering where I glanced through it this time but must of just missed it. Ill go back and re read!! Thanks again!
 
#11 ·
Hi,

I'd be giving this car a thorough interrogation with SDS and then, after noting all Codes, clear the whole lot, drive it for at least 100 miles, then do the same and see what comes back..........

Pay particular attention to making sure SDS will communicate with all Modules, (UCP, COMAND, TV, Telephone, all 4 Doors, all SAMs etc etc) :wink

Let us know what you find :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 
#12 ·
Hi again all. So I went back and reread the reset section put up so kindly from Skylab! I may be mistaken, but do not see anything in there about the 3 doors not working since changing out the battery.
I hAve also read, and re read threads for a few hours about low voltage on batteries, changing out batteries, jumping from batteries...etc. i know my 02 S500 was sensitive to voltage for everything to properly work, and have gathered that its maybe even more crucial with the upgraded 06 S500's.....
I have checked and rechecked all fuses and relays related to the doors and all that goes with that. OH, the sunroof has also started to not go open and shut with the one touch button as it di as well!! Just remembered that. I need to push it about 5/6/7 times to open it and close it each time.....
The 2 malfunctions on the dash that stay there are the SRS, drive to shop, and rear brake pads need replaced..... which is this weekends good times!!:))
So after taking the drivers door apart, thinking it was possibly a lose wire or two, all looks to be connected and in place.
So at this moment, it is just perplexing to have ONLY the PASSENGERS side front door working properly, and the other 3 all dead! As well as the sunroof working as it is like i explained earlier.
ANY ideas whats ever?
Would it be BEST if I went and bought a brand new AMG style Battery, It has the AMG package, although not engine, but the biggest one available for this car, and possibly need to have it reset by the star system from being disconnected from the Battery for a length of time?
Again, the RESET section in the encyclopedia doesn't seem to hit this problem, per say..... or am i missing something again??:)
Thanks again all!!!!!
Scot/ Power of Choice
 
#13 ·
Hi Dave. You are talking about the Star program? As I just asked in the post that I did, before I read what you had posted!!! :( Not sure how I missed seeing it, but got it now!! Thanks! Scot
 
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#14 ·
Hi,

Yes Star Diagnostic System, also known as DAS / Xentry , do not use anything else, the cheaper the less use the others are as they don't access all systems :wink

Your Sunroof is easy, you need to run it back fully and forward fully, (maybe tilt up / down too), by bumping the buttons repeatedly, this will normalise it and then it will work on the "One Touch" function :wink

This also applies to the Windows up and down, although you will have to fix the fault on 3 doors first.

This is why I'd rather cut off a limb than Power Down one of these Cars, there are certain items, like Power Trunk Closer which will not normalise, and have to be done through SDS, possibly Seat Modules too for Convenience Entry / Exit Function :rolleyes:

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 
#15 ·
Interesting about the trunk is that it is still working just fine since the power Down happened from changing the battery out. Its just all three doors and sunroof. I notice that at night when turning on the lights, the passenger side door is the only one that has the lights come on around the seat settings and such, which is telling me that the other three are not getting ANY power to them at all? Is this normal per the Power Down situation from changing out the battery? Or mainly not enough power still provided to them?
Thanks again! Scot
 
#16 ·
As I said on the first page , pick up a another's drivers door switch panel on eBay and swap it out

Since you said everything was working fine till you pushed on that loose switch panel , that's the first thing to look at . If that doesn't do it , it may be the door control module (aka the power seat switch box on the drivers door ) which is a very common failure item
 
#17 ·
Evening All and Tusabes.... Im sorry I forgot to mention, that i did try the panel from my other 220 S500 and still nothing. I know electrical issues,( all to well from all the research and work to get my 02 engine back together and running, from the wire harness all the way up due to the engine fire I so graciously received so much help from on here that it was definitely a good part of that success!!!....) are so frustrating and i try to think about them logically to often and just have to remember that sometimes it just doesn't make sense....at least to me:)
J
Also, i mentioned that it was "around" the same time that I pushed the loosened panel, and the battery needed a jump for a few days to start before I changed it out completely..... which is ALL on me for not being more aware and specific minded to of had the exact dates the issues started and in what exact order.... I just thought NOT AGAIN..... with the electrical issues... but the enjoyment and love of these vehicles always win in the end, for me!!
I just don't see how it would be the passengers side door that would work completely and the other 3 nothing..... except I noticed tonight, as I was getting ready to run to the store quickly, that the aromatic system that closes the doors and trunk completely when they are not shut all the way manually, actually does work on the 2 doors that are out of power, the rear 2 doors, but does NOT work on the drivers door along with everything else...?? And I KNOW that it worked all the way around before all this started to happen, as I checked it when I bought the vehicle, and had a small surgical repair done on my wrist a few months back and would more times than not, not shut the drivers door hard enough to close manually and was thankful I had that "luxury" available so I didn't need to reopen and shut the door as I usually had things to carry in the other hand...... a small thing to most but a God send for me!! :)
Whether or not that says anything different to anyone or not, I don't know, but thought id put it out there as i remember it. And I realize they are different systems, so maybe just a coincidence, I don't know.
ust a quick note about that engine fire restoration on my 02 S500, I don't think I ever completely told the story and the steps approached to bring her back to life again, EVEN when the dealership people told me that not only would they not touch it, and a friend that had been the shop foreman for 10 plus years and now over all the service said that a few of the techs that looked at it said it COULDN'T be fixed nor would any of them even attempt it. That to say only........ the old adage .... where theres a will theres a way, still applies today! And that if anything, ABSOLUTE PROOF that this forum works, and the people that take the time to reach out and as we help each other, truly makes a difference!! So if anyone is newer to the site, not saying that everything is 100% correct 100% of the time, but in my experience they are MOST of the time pretty correct and at its core the best advice and partnership available out there, hands down. I realize that it would be quite a longer piece to share, and maybe, if the information was deemed good enough, to be somewhere incorporated somehow into the amazing information that SKYLAW has put here at the beginning as the Encyclopedia of information to read first because of the wealth of Knowledge with in. But I would be honored to share everything I learned and some step by step things that could be a different way of handling some things that might help? About a year and 3 months of work but did pay off in the end!!:) Also have many before and after pictures that probably say more than enough in some areas..... but I will wait as the Extremists, Elite members, Moderators, and such weigh in and believe it would be information worth peoples time and such.
Thanks again!!
Scot / Power of Choice
 
#19 ·
Hi,

/\ + 1 , Tusabes is right, it does scream DCM's :wink

But if you want to do this without guessing, and maybe buying stuff you don't need, get it on SDS :wink

I suspect that the door modules may be slightly different on Pre Face-lift to Face-lift Cars, as the latter has a CGW where the older ones don't .......... Even if the p/n is the same, the Coding may need to be different.......... Again SDS :wink

Perhaps someone else can clarify that ??

When you say the Trunk is still working, do you mean the Locking / Soft Close ??

I was referring to the PTL Hydraulic Trunk Lifting (Red button inside Trunk Lid) which not all cars have :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 
#20 ·
One thing that hasn't been specifically covered (at least not that I remember) in this thread. The computer protects the PSE (Pneumatic Service Equipment) pump by cutting off non-functioning actuators. The computer monitors the time required for each actuator to complete its function. If the time required is outside the programmed limits, the computer cuts off that actuator.

To reset the computer:
- Find the rear floor light that is located behind the right rear passenger's heels.
- Remove the light by simply pulling it out.
- In the row of fuses behind the light, find the yellow 20-Amp fuse that is on the end nearer the center of the car.
- Remove the fuse, wait a few seconds, and reinstall the fuse.

Try the non-functioning actuators. If they now function, but stop functioning after a brief period, there is a leak in that system.

This might not help, but it is fast, easy and free to try it...
 
#21 ·
One thing that hasn't been specifically covered (at least not that I remember) in this thread. The computer protects the PSE (Pneumatic Service Equipment) pump by cutting off non-functioning actuators. The computer monitors the time required for each actuator to complete its function. If the time required is outside the programmed limits, the computer cuts off that actuator.
Hi,

That's a very good point Wally, but doesn't account for other Door related problems.

If the car is interrogated by SDS it will show that "Latch time" as a code in the PSE, and if it isn't a leak there will be other reports that will send him right to the specific problem(s), so the Money spent will not be in vain :wink

Cheers Dave
 
#22 ·
Yes Dave, I do have the Hydraulic trunk lift with the red buttons for closing once ready to.... Great feature and you are correct, I have not seen it before as most people that see it in action, and think its the coolest thing ever..:) But after taking the battery out, i had taken the pump that carries the fluid for the hydraulic ..."arm"?? Or shock absorber? it was a bit fast in the closing part, but noticed that the fluid is low, below the plus sign on the cylinder..... is it just regular hydraulic fluid , or like power steering fluid or brake fluid type of fluid to fill it up? The actual bottom of the pump, the SQUARE box itself, that is all in the foam rubber type casing beside the battery, looks like it has been eroding from something, then i brought the bottom piece of the foam rubber out and it was soaking wet!!! Looks as if the bottom of the hydraulic pump has been just sitting there in the moisture of a wet outer case for some time. I've posted a couple pics to show how it looks, and if anyone else ever looked similar? The scary thing is that the water is also on the side where the Battery is located. Even though it has the chanel and cutout hole for water to escape, it seems as if its not escaping quick enough if the hydraulic pump outer foam rubber is soaked and the condition of the square pump looks. I looked at the hole and nothing is in it to block the drainage, only the rubber stopper type insert, that i was thinking of taking out and maybe making the hole a bit bigger....
As i noticed it at the time I thought it may of been a contributor to the battery failure, but didn't show any signs whatsoever of any water lines, or moisture at all..... i seem to see several threads talk about the water in the trunk space esp in these two side wells. II know it happened to My 02 on the side with all the audio command units, and wound up ruining 2 of the components that were in the loop. I've also read a few different fixes, and wondering what you might suggest if it continues to keep it dry inside there?
Thanks again and will be looking at the DCM and looking to replace it, possibly with the 02 S500, but if not applicable as you suggest Dave, Iwill have one ordered ASAP from a friend who owns an A PLUS salvage yard specializing in ONLY Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar and Range Rovers. He was a GREAT help in my rebuild of the 02 engine fire and NEVER had 1 issue w any part sent!! Thanks again!!!!
Will be trying these ideas and also have an appointment with the STAR System on Thursday morning with EX-FED here in the Dallas area! Excited to see whats all going on and getting it hopefully cleared up!!!!! Will also keep informed what we find on Thursday as well.
Power of Choice
 
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#23 ·
Hi,

Yes PTL is a cool extra on these Cars :wink
It is usual if the Battery has been flat or removed they need to be "Normalised" on SDS........
I was told that this is a "Safety Feature" to prevent the Trunk suddenly closing on your head when re connecting the Battery, however, I usually un plug the PTL Motor Plug until I've finished work in the Trunk, then plug it back in standing ready to hit the Red Button to reverse it :laugh
Now I've only had to do this on Pre Facelift Cars, haven't had a Post Facelift with PTL in yet, so maybe MB modded the Firmware or somesuch, or maybe they are just programmed that way for Europe :confused:

Anyway, glad it still working.

PTL uses Power Steering / Auto Fluid, Dextron 2 :wink

EX-Fed is the man for SDS 'ing this Car with all his knowledge base :smile
I look forward to the report from both of you :wink

You need to sort this water leak.

Get shut in the Trunk with a torch and an assistant simulating rain from a hose pipe to find where that water is getting in, check carefully around Rear Lights area, and Trunk Lid Seal, and Trunk Lid where Registration Plate Trim fits on, easier if you remove the relevant Trunk Interior Trim panels first :wink

HTH

Cheers Dave
 
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#25 ·
INteresting!!! And i also, had the same leaks in the trunk on my other W220, the 02!! No matter what i seemed to do, change out the rubber seals, use clear silicone, anything, and nothing kept it out. Which cause all sorts of havoc and fried components on the 02 as it was on the drivers side where all the CD, Tele, etc was all in the well area. This one on the 06 is on the battery side, passenger, and where the hydraulic trunk release pump was sitting in water. I will have Ex-Fed and I take pics tomorrow and do what was mentioned by going inside and simulating rain..... and Im all for being w you, Tusabes. Its really sad that something so damaging can be loved over for that many year period and that many vehicles.... Let me know whats up and ill be apart for sure!
Scot
 
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#26 ·
Hello all! Happy Monday.....:) So I wanted to share the results of the time Ex-Fed car by last week and showed me his BEAUTIFUL cherry black S500, AS WELL AS PUTTING THE SDS ON MY VEHICLE TO TRACK DOWN ANY POSSIBLE SITUATIONS WITH MY BATTERY DRAIN problems, and more importantly my 3 doors, all but the passengers front door, not showing any signs of life!!
I was also able to ask questions and really start to get a good feel for what all that program does and how valuable it really is , ESPECIALLY WHEN, ONE IS GOING TO OWN AND OPERATE AND WORK ON EVEN, WHAT SEEMS to BE SO VERY MUCH THE SIMPLEST OF PROBLEMS, AS A DIY'ER!!!! And all in all, it can not be like the need to rob a bank to afford a decent set up!!
As we ran diagnostics on past, and present codes, and traced out a few things going on, it turned out, TUSABLES:), WITH THE HUMBLEST OF NOTIFICATIONS!!!!!......that the drivers side door had an issue, with something called the ...DOOR CONTROL MODULE, OR DCM??? Ever heard of it??? LOL!!!! LOL!!!!! Kidding of course..... So, I was VERY fortunate that the DCM in my 02 W220 was a match, other than the 02 had the seat "cool" ventilation and not a low and high level of HEAT as the 06 does, but it still plugged in and worked right away!!!! All doors, and windows, and sunroof is all back to normal operating procedures!!! Just a VERY LARGE shout out to first TUSABLES, as well as DAVE2302(DAVE), WALLY P, SKYLAW AND PINKSTER, all for working with me and together, along with the kindness of EX_FED (RICH) for taking the time and energy to come out to ME, and spend a few hours sharing and teaching me some things in a way I understood and will apply down the road, as well as Possibly help someone else down the road with any similar problems!!!
The only 2 things that are left popping up on my screen are 1. Rear Brakes, which will be done this week, and says the "OIL SENDING UNIT"../// which again only popped up when the battery went low. Would it be a good idea to replace it at this point as it keeps coming up? Im sure there is a post on replacing it, would anyone know off hand where it is, as Id like to do it all at the same time.
Well again, thank you for everyones help and time for a VERY positive outcome, which is definitely the RULE rather than the exception here!!! Have a wonderful week all!
Powerofchoice/Scot
 
#27 ·
Also, TUSSLES, I am very interested in any class action concerning the water damage and leaks NOT being fixed properly by MB! It caused me 3 ruined, shorted out components in the 02, and possibly a battery and Hydraulic pump in the 06 now. Let me kn ow what is next!
Thanks! Powerofchoice/Scot
 
#28 ·
Hi,

Glad you got it sorted, so all you need is to buy the correct DCM now, and you know your not wasting money on a bit you don't need :wink

Yeah if that Battery is suspect, change it :wink

Now you've had a look, you can see why I advocate SDS all the time, :laugh it is just sooooooo much more than a code reader, I wouldn't work on modern Benz without it :grin

Thanks for reporting back with the outcome it is a great help to others :wink

Cheers Dave
 
#30 ·
One other thing Dave....??? Do you consider the AGM Blue Battery to be worth the $ to ensure the most amperage rather than a "regular" MB battery? Or one like Interstate? Have considered it and just wanted some opinions about if its worth it to most people?? Thanks again all!!!
Powerofchoice
 
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#32 · (Edited)
Hi,

Lead Acid is "old technology" now, but they still work fine :wink

We see 8+ years out of OEM Mercedes Lead Acid batteries on the fleet vehicles, I have no knowledge of the Interstate Brand you mention, but over here I fit Lucas or Oldham as a good aftermarket Battery. These come with 3 yr Warranty and generally last 4+ years :wink

AGM vs Lead Acid, we don't see them a lot on Road cars, but use them a lot on the Stage Rally Cars.........

Basically CCA and A/hr is the same like for like, but you will find that AGM is physically smaller than an equal spec Lead / Acid, so if you buy the Biggest AGM that will fit in the battery Compartment, it should have a better capacity rating :wink

However, a W220 without electrical faults should be able to stand idle for at least 3 weeks and still start, with a "Standard Battery", I know mine does since I started my workshop extension and it's been just sitting on my lift waiting for me to finish it :wink

We have found, on the Rally cars, that AGM don't like standing around idle, and some guys who don't run their cars that often are having to replace them quite regularly :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 
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