Read the instructions contained in post #2 above
1) Drain Radiator
2) Remove expansion tank
3) Remove Washer fluid tank
4) Remove various clamps and wiring connectors - pretty straightforward.
5) Remove oil dipstick tube all the way out - two bolts and some wriggling - make sure you put a towel or something over the hole in the pan.
6) Alternator - on the back pipe clamps and harness clips - remove. Remove three locating bolts as per the diagram on WIS.
7) Gotcha!! Small bracket clamp & bolt at about 5 o'clock when looking at the front of the alternator.
8) Now the fun part - getting the alternator out of the car. WIS says "pull up and out" BS - impossible. I jacked the engine slightly from below which gave me a little more wriggle room.
9) Cuss and swear and remove alternator - go drink beer and do the alternator dance.
I will post some pictures.
Order new dipstick tube grommet 112 018 00 80
Order gasket - alternator to block - 137 153 01 80 - just in case it does not come with the replacement alternator.
Alternator did not come with the gasket so you need to order one.
Fitting the alternator back in is also a PITA. There is a allan headed bleed screw on the body of the alternator. Removing that gave me the little bit of extra room to maneuver the alternator into place. Don't forget to put it back in 8>).
Good job Roger. Question - when you say you jacked the engine; I assume you lifted a few inches from the oil pan and then what? Wiggle the alternator out from the bottom?
Yes I raised it a couple of inches at the most maybe less. If I had also removed the drain plug from the alternator case getting it out might have been easier.
I used as large a block of wood as possible within the space and jacked on the sump - not an issue.
Did you have to loosen the engine mounts at all? I don't plan on replacing my alternator anytime soon, but I was curious about you jacking the motor up as I'll need to do that when I replace the mounts.
Here is a picture of the new (Mercedes Rebuilt) alternator in place. Once you remove the fan shroud, expansion tank and washer reservoir there seems to be plenty of room - NOT!!
That sucker is heavy and trying to support it while locating one of the three bolts is a PITA and much better if you have two sets of hands.
The key for the extra room was raising the engine slightly and removing the drain screw - that alone could have saved me three hours (combined in and out) of wrestling.
The rest of the process was pretty easy.
Amstel78, remember the engine is about 500lbs, use the right tools for the job. Don't jack it up by the sump. The sump is only thin and should not be used for lifting the motor.
Noted Dean. Not a huge fan of using the sump to lift either, but several people have reportedly done so with ill effect. I'll try to get an engine hoist for the job.
I guess I am going to differ on the don't jack on the sump - if you distribute the weight over as large area as possible (biggest piece of wood that fits) no harm will come - do it all the time an all sorts of alloy sumps with never an issue.
Now if you put the small jack pad directly on the base of the sump that would be stupid and a big chance of a hole.
Just use common sense.
We've all gotten away with things we shouldn't really do ........... but ............
"Common Sense" would actually be don't do it
Cheers Dave
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