Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

W220 Left SAM unit

23K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  Dave2302  
#1 ·
Hello

Firstly thanks for this forum I read it regularly and find it immensly usefull.

I think i need to change my left SAM unit as there is a fault with my right hand low beam - its stopped working, i changed the lamp and noticed a small arching had occured between the 2 soldered lamp contacts on the old lamp and that the lamp had not "blown" !

I am an electronics engineer and have tested all the obvious.

I am lead to believe that the left SAM has the electronic fuse for the right low beam?? (and only the right low beam as the rest of the right hand lights are inside the right hand SAM and vice versa?)

I have had a look at the job and seems very easy, and i have even taken the plunge with a second hand unit from ebay due to arrive in a few days time.

Should i be disconnecting the battery before i unplug the SAM unit ??

Am i correct in thinking that nothing else will need to be done like programming etc ? I did read in another post that it would not be required ?

Do you think after the job in hand is complete that i will be able to open up the old SAM unit as I expect there will be a melted track on the PCB like most other faults of this kind on other domestic equipment with PCB's ? (I do find this is a common fault with PCB's that carry low ish amounts of current !?)

Your help and advice is much appreciated.

Steve Scott
Harrow
London
UK

S320 2000
 
#2 ·
Hi, you may need to change over settings, as i had to do this with mine. launch will do it, just log into unit, adaptions, save configuration settings, unplug old sam, plug in new sam, transfer over settings, or it may just plug and play. i did this to ensure no issues after fitting. hope it goes well, and post back with result? hope it helps.
bal.
 
#5 ·
Ok Ive just changed over my left hand SAM unit with a second hand unit of ebay and guess what....... the flippin' right hand low beam is still not working !!! HELP !!!!!!!!
Its exactly the same as before !!
Oh and by the way i didnt need to set it up or prgramme it.
Anyone point me what to do now please ?????
 
#9 ·
Anyone point me what to do now please ?????
Steve.

Please fill in your profile (User CP ^^^) with model/year/location. Also give some relevant details here, eg, do you have Bi-xenons, which only came after 09/2002.

With that info I can discuss your post #1, and we might get somewhere..:) Also I can post circuit diagrams of the SAMs here for your interest.
 
#8 ·
Need to know exactly what system is in the car as the next step is to feed the r/h faulty lamp with the l/h feed to confirm r/h feed faulty.
Which would be pointless if it has a faulty igniter.
Not to mention the pita of removing the header tank and washer bottle.
Also need to know if the dash is reporting a fault on that lamp.
 
#10 ·
Hi guys thanks
It 2000 model s 320
Standard lamp bulbs
Yes the dash is reporting the fault as "right headlamp low beam out"
And as I say I've replaced the LEFT Sam unit with a second hand unit off ebay - what is the likelihood of the secondhand sam unit having the same fault on it?
My vin number is WDB2200652A138694 My location is London UK.
Any pointers you can give we will be much appreciated - my MOT is due if 4 weeks ahhhhh!
 
#13 · (Edited)
I am lead to believe that the left SAM has the electronic fuse for the right low beam?? (and only the right low beam as the rest of the right hand lights are inside the right hand SAM and vice versa?)
Correct. Odd, I know, but that how MB decided to design it.

Should i be disconnecting the battery before i unplug the SAM unit ??
The (unreadable) text from the WIS above advises MB techs to:
1. connect a quiescent current retention unit to a specified socket.
2. disconnect battery earth.

I'm not sure what that achieves, and you seem to have managed without this kit.:)

Am i correct in thinking that nothing else will need to be done like programming etc ? I did read in another post that it would not be required ?
There is nothing about reprogramming in the WIS add/remove procedure.

Do you think after the job in hand is complete that i will be able to open up the old SAM unit as I expect there will be a melted track on the PCB like most other faults of this kind on other domestic equipment with PCB's ?
I would be surprised if the SAM itself is the cause of this front light failure - although I expect that you will have also checked the wiring, connectors and earths.

You don't say what documentation you have to work with, so I'm posting from my WIS the external connnections to N10/7 (left SAM) so that you can do some detailed wiring checks.

Incidentally, I really thought that you would put your profile in the User CP, so that it comes up with every post together with your handle. Otherwise the reader has to keep checking back for details of the model/year/location. These are all important as there are so many alternatives to the basic designs.

Ignore the circuit in box U735. That is only for bi-xenon lights
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Thanks for this I will check asap.
I'm not sure what the quiescent current retension device is so I've completed the sam change without this !?
I presume its the number 1 connection on the 6 way connector with two connections unused (nc) going to the lamp labeled e2e2 ? I think from memory that there is only one 6 way connector connected to the underside of the sam? There is also a smaller 4 way I think and a multiway plug ?
If correct I could check by connecting a lamp direct to the sam output and to earth ?

Not sure how to change my profile user cp?
 
#15 ·
I presume its the number 1 connection on the 6 way connector with two connections unused (nc) going to the lamp labeled e2e2 ?
Yes. Connector 1, pin 1 should go to one side of lamp E2e2 via a yellow wire. The other side to chassis earth via a brown wire.

Pull off the SAM connector, and see (first) if +12v dc will light the lamp, with the negative side taken to any good chassis earth.

If that fails, the problem could be in the rear light assembly, so check out the continuity with your multimeter with the bulb out.

If correct I could check by connecting a lamp direct to the sam output and to earth ?
Yes.

Not sure how to change my profile user cp?
Click on User CP at top of page. Go to Your profile on LHS. Click Edit your details. You don't need to fill in any more than basic info. Location is of interest because of US/Europe differences.
 
#17 ·
OMG !!! I've sorted it!
Can't beleive I've been barking up the wrong tree all this time !
Its only because keyhole pointed out its the yellow wire that it dawned on me - I've been looking at the wrong lamp all this time, the low beam is the lamp inside the separate compartment on the very outside of the light cluster, I've been looking inside the middle compartment - DOH ! - What a idiot ! I feel stupid now but never mind !
Thank you guys all very very much for your help, love this forum its the best thing since sliced bread !!
 
#18 ·
"quiescent current retention device" basically keeps the codes for your radio if you have any security codes, and probably saves you from some or all of the resets if you disconnect the battery, it isn't essential because the radio doesn't have a code (why is the SRS control box coded to the car, yet the command system isn't?), and its a 2 minute job to open and close your sunroof.
I think you are wasting time messing around with you SAM, you have replaced it and the fault is still there.
What you want to do next is pull the plug from the other working side, use your multimeter to find out which is the live feed for the dipped beam, and run a wire from that over to the faulty side, along with the ground from the good side, leave both plugs out from the rear of the bulbs so that its just the good side powering the bad side.
That will tell you once and for all that the fault lies in the feed, not in the unit.
You may be able to pull the plug, but you may also have to unscrew the header tank and washer bottle and lay them to one side.
If the fault is in the feed, then check if the fault is in the positive or the ground.
If the fault is in the ground, then its obviously an easy fix, just run a link to the bodywork.
If the fault is in the live side, and you want a quick fix for the MOT, then clip the wire and fit a relay, find a constant live in the drivers side fusebox, and use the good side live for the switched pin on the relay, it will get you through the MOT (the dash warning should not even warrant an advisory), and will give you time to fix the problem for good.
I am assuming of course that you are turning the light switch clockwise to turn on the lights, and anti-clockwise which turns on the parking lights....
 
#22 ·
Necro thread closed, more than one post on same issue !!
 
Save
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.