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DIY Harmonic Balancer Guide

76K views 36 replies 17 participants last post by  cowboyt  
#1 ·
Okay guys, I've been searching for days on a DIY for the harmonic balancer on our cars and couldn't find any so I snapped a few photos while doing mine earlier. I had some vibrations at idle that continued after replacing my motor and trans mounts and when I pulled the harmonic balancer, I noticed a lot of dry rot and some small chunks of rubber missing.
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What you'll need:
17mm socket
27mm socket
breaker bar
Some kind of extension for leverage
Counterholder tool
New harmonic balancer
New harmonic balancer bolt
Crankshaft seal (optional)
Serpentine belt (optional)

This thread here has the WIS documentation for this procesure with the correct torque specs
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1701506-harmonic-balancer-diy-tips-tricks.html

I'll start by saying having the proper crank holder tool makes all the difference in the world, it's pretty much a one time use item but c'est la vie. Also I managed to change the balancer while leaving the radiator fan on though it would have made for more space without it, I decided to leave it on.

First, start by locating the tensioner, this is what keeps the serpentine belt under tension. There is a 17mm bolt that you can't really see that sits under the tensioner pulley, if you under it to the left of the pulley you'll find it (it's circled in red-note harmonic balancer and serpentine belt are removed)
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When you put your socket on the 17mm nut, push down like you're going counter-clockwise and you will release the tension on the belt enough to slip it off and remove it.

Next you'll want to place your harmonic balancer holder into the crank pulley so that the 3 feet fit in the spokes. It's hard to see while the fan is in place so feel your way around until it holds.
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In the last photo you can see the tool sitting like it should in the crank pulley.

Next is the most tedious part, you need to line up a 27mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and then attached your breaker bar to the socket. My car is an '02 with 248k miles on it and I'm guessing it's the original harmonic balancer so this took some coaxing to get off. I put a two foot section of 1/4" wall steel pipe on the breaker bar while my brother had a section of steel on the pulley tool, we're both quite strong and it took three good push/pulls for the bolt to break it's hold on the crank.
Once the bolt is loose, remove your socket and tool and back the bolt out by hand. You will notice the harmonic balancer starting to loosen and come off. This is what it should look like without the balancer in place.
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Keep in mind, this is a good time to replace the crankshaft seal while you're here. I forgot to get mind when I ordered so I'll be replacing that in the future (and remember if you take the balancer back off, get a new crank bolt!)

Now that the balancer is off, look for the locating groove on the new harmonic balancer and try and see where it is on the crankshaft snout sticking out of the block. Go ahead and line it up and put the new balancer on and tighten the bolt back hand tight.
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Now reverse your steps above where you put the holding tool back on the new pulley and tighten the crankshaft bolt. The bolt needs to be tightened to 200Nm or about 147ft lb.

Once the bolt is tight, remove your holder, sockets, and start routing your belt around the appropriate pulleys. Once it's on all but the tensioner, take your 17mm socket and put it on the nut and again turn the tensioner counter clockwise until it's back far enough to slip the belt over.
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Release the tensioner and the belt will be taught again. Do a final check to make sure the belt is aligned properly on the pulleys and look for any leftover sockets and tools in the engine bay. Start the motor and visually check for belt alignment and pat yourself on the back for saving yourself a few hundred dollars!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Okay shoot me down in flames...the harmonic balancer???? is this just a crankshaft pully with a rubber sleeve to dampen the serpentine belt? On previous cars i've just trapped the crank pulley with a peice of wood and a jack...okay its was a landrover and the other car was the triumph spitfire but it stopped the engine turning while the bolt was loosened, i'm looking forward to hearing why this is a terrible idea and should never be done...go on type at me....

I'll answer that question in this text, in the landrover, you remove a cover plate in the autobox and pin the fly wheel with a block of wood, effectively using the cars weight to pin the flywheel to the wooden block you have on a jack. The aim is to stop the engine turning while the pully bolt is extracted. On the spitfire I lifted the car on the crank pully wheel using a block of wood and rubber to increase the friction and struck the spanner with a sharp blow to crack off the nut, lower vehicle undo bolt slide off crank pully...I imagine using the MB tool is safer, easier to retorque, but it looks costly.
 
#7 ·
Okay shoot me down in flames...the harmonic balancer???? is this just a crankshaft pully with a rubber sleeve to dampen the serpentine belt? On previous cars i've just trapped the crank pulley with a peice of wood and a jack...okay its was a landrover and the other car was the triumph spitfire but it stopped the engine turning while the bolt was loosened, i'm looking forward to hearing why this is a terrible idea and should never be done...go on type at me....
pretty much. Its designed a certain weight with a rubber piece sandwiched in there.

I'm not sure what you mean about trapping the crank pulley with wood and a jack, but considering the torque this thing needs to be tightened to, whatever you use to hold it needs to be secure.
 
#15 · (Edited)
The crankshaft harmonic balancer pulley holders seems to be different (the bolts seems to be longer). The MB part number is 112 589 00 40 00 for the M113 Exx and 230 589 00 40 00 for the M113 E55 ML.

Working accordingly to the WIS you will need a sleeve.
I know some mechanic who will do the job without the sleeve.
 
#19 ·
Hi Guys,

I came across this old thread and was hoping to ask if anyone has replaced their harmonic balancer die to a rattling sound. My car is a 2005 s500 4matic with 140k miles. While I don't have reason to believe that my harmonic balancer is causing the issue...the steps to replace it seem pretty simple and I wonder if there is a way to test whether or not the rubber seal around the balancer is actually ok.

Thanks
Rick
 
#25 ·
We tried to spray penetrating oil , i think we were aiming for the keyway, but its very hard to see. You need a long straw on your aerosol can. Well after a lot of wiggling and some gentle prying with a screwdriverfrom the bottom, my dad actually noticed it was coming off so eventually we got it off. Its a e55 w211 with m113k somaybe there is less room. We only removed the fan, not the radiator
 
#26 ·
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I know you joined years ago and only made 8 posts since then, but you still need to complete that info !!
 
#27 ·
For posterity's sake, digging this up from the dead to recommend using a 3/4" drive breaker bar rather than the more commonly used 1/2" drive. Makes a huge difference. A 1/2" will flex like crazy from the force required to loosen the crank bolt (it's A LOT) and waste a lot of energy. Higher likelihood of the 1/2" bar failing and causing damage or injury to you and/or the car as well.
 
#28 ·
I have cleanly sheared a 1/2" Craftsman extension in the middle trying to remove the crank pulley bolt on a 928 - came right out with 3/4" tools.

BTW - Just as a matter of interest - the factory tool to hold the crank on the 928 is a simple steel piece - you pull the starter, bolt the tool on in its place. The teeth on the tool mesh with the ring gear to hold the crank. I think the Porsche list price was between $20 and $30 several years ago. If I ever need to take the Mercedes pulley off, I'll see if the Porsche tool will work safely.
 
#31 · (Edited)
The correct tool for the Mercedes can be had pretty cheap. Here's a link:


Also, I think I recall the Mercedes instructions for the M113 saying specifically not to try to hold the crank in place by the ring gear but to use the Mercedes version of the tool I linked to above. Other Mercs do use a tool that holds the ring gear in place. Not so for the M113.
 
#29 ·
I did this job on the S600 about a month ago (same procedure). I used 4ft-long cheater bars along with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the special tool from CTA. Took it right off.


Didn't know about this thread until this morning, so I ended up using WIS to get the torque specs.
 
owns 2003 Mercedes-Benz S600
#30 · (Edited)
It can and has been done with 1/2" drive breaker bars. It's a lot easier and safer with a 3/4" is all.

Check out how much the 1/2" breaker bar flexes while actually doing the job on the M113 starting around the 8:25 mark:


Here's a good video showing the difference between a 1/2" vs 3/4" breaker in action starting around the 6:30 mark:


That VW axle bolt uses the same tightening torque spec of 148 lb/ft + 90 degree turn as the M113 crank bolt.

All that flex isn't helping you do the job.
 
#32 ·
So the U Tube mechanic is using a cheapo breaker bar with a pole on the end of it :ROFLMAO:

No wonder it is flexing, I don't understand anyone being surprised or whatever about that, and if he continues to hold the bottom of a breaker bar / socket like that he is just as likely to lose a finger or muller his hand ..........

Decent tools like Snap On do not do that. Yes a 3/4 is better, and yes I have a 4ft long Snap On 3/4 breaker bar as well as the regular Snap On 1/2 and 3/8 drive versions.

My point is do not buy cheap tools and use the correct tool for the job ;)
 
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#33 ·
No one said anything about being surprised .... or whatever. I don't understand making an issue...or whatever about snap-on tools vs "cheapo" tools from what's been said and shown about 3/4" vs 1/2" breaker bars. Is this a humble brag about your snap-on tools?

Not sure what makes you think a 1/2" snap-on breaker bar wouldn't flex.


The snap-on in this video retails for $185 US. If that means it isn't "cheapo" it sure flexes like it is.

The point is flexing will make the job harder and more unsafe than a bar that doesn't flex..like a 3/4" bar that won't bat an eye at the crank bolt. My 3/4" 36" breaker was $90. It's cheapo compared to any snap-on 1/2" breaker, but will never start bending at 100 ft/lb like the snap-on in the video.
 
#34 ·
Whatever :(
 
#35 ·
While Snap-On does tend to produce a very high-quality tool--higher-quality than most, in my own experience, which is why automotive techs tend to buy them--it is true that having the right tool for the job is what matters most. A Snap-On screwdriver will not work nearly as well for taking a hex-head nut off as even a Chinesium socket of the proper size will. We all know this.

To that end, were I to do this kind of job a lot, i. e. I were a professional automotive technician like Dave or Deplore, I would very likely buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar, and it would be Snap-On, Matco, or MAC, in that order. Given the heavy usage of tools in the automotive profession, professional techs really do need that extra strength. I'm just a hobbyist (albeit a reasonably serious one), and it turns out my 1/2" drive breaker bar did the trick nicely, with the 4 ft pipe all the way over the handle, thus preventing handle flex. But I might be concerned about breaking the drive head after a bunch of such uses, and I have snapped a breaker bar's drive head before.

I'm just glad I was able to get the job done relatively quickly. The threads here in this forum helped a bunch.
 
owns 2003 Mercedes-Benz S600
#36 ·
Given the heavy usage of tools in the automotive profession, professional techs really do need that extra strength.
(y) (y) (y)

Nah, I think you're wrong there T ;) ;) ;) ....





I might be a pro, but never mind busting up my hands or breaking tools and vehicle parts, I only buy Snap On tools so I can brag about them whilst trying to help DIY folks on Forums :rolleyes:

BTW I have been buying Snap On since I was 14 years old, in a Saturday job, and have been buying them ever since, so that's a lotta years, (46 years in a few days to be precise).

I still have many many tools that I bought when I was an apprentice, and if one of those broke today, my Snap On dealer would give me a new one under the lifetime warranty no quibble ;)

I guess I should have been more specific ............ Of course a 1/2" Snap On will flex when used at very high torques, (for the Tool), but it won't break like cheapies do.
If it flexes more than a little, that is the time to get out the 3/4" bar, or even the 1" on commercial vehicle applications !!

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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